hey guys, i stumbled across these forums, i hope you guys can help me, i know the basic swap is the same, i have here a 1969 010 canadian block 355 (or 357 i cant remeber) that me and my father built a few years ago for a boat motor,it pushs out around 400 (will see what the dyno has to say later) it has an iron oil pan which will be swapped out for somthing thats a sure fit, i need a little help on a few things im not sure on, or if its the same as 87 2 bolt

-oil pan size
-header size
-motor mounts
-fuel lines and pump
-radiator/fans/cooling

and when i do a tranny swap i would like to use an old school 4 speed

-drive shaft size change?
-crossmember swap?
-12 bolt rearend swap?

anything else anyone would like to add would be a big help this is going to be my first attempt at a swap for my first car and id like to gather as much info as possible, though a simple swap it can make problems for me later, i plan to use the stock 5 speed if its anygood, probly a clutch upgrade so it better handles the power, just until i can save up enough for a muchie m20 and an axel swap (from what i understand an axel swap is over $2,000) thanx alot

-Vin

 

The 87 block is a one piece rear main seal isn't it? If it is, there's a few things that need to be changed. Other than that, externally, they're pretty well the same. GM even keeps the original mount holes in the front of the block on both sides of the balancer. That was for the original front motor mounts back in the 50's.

010 blocks were produced until the late 70's, early 80's. It's just a 4" bore block used for 302, 327 and 350 engines. They were made in 2 and 4 bolt mains. Your 69 block probably has a higher nickel content in it than the later 010 blocks.

You're probably going to have problems using an old 4 speed tranny without using a special bellhousing. Third gens with a manual transmission have the clutch arm at an angle to clear the floor. It it wasn't, it would come out right where the gas pedel is. You're not going to be able to mate a 4 speed tranny to the T5 bellhousing.

 

i figured a id have a few problems with the trans, maby im better off getting a bulletproof t5, i also figured ill end up sacrificeing a/c and i hope to god a 67-69 wireing harness will work.

im told the particular block i have is out of a 69 camaro from canada, the canadian blocks have slightly thicker casting, the heads are 69 2.02 valve double camel back, double spring, roller cam and rockers, 10:1 j&e forged pistons, i think 6 inch rods but i could be wrong, bored .040 over 3.48" crank, edelbrock performer intake mani topped with a holley marine 550 (which im gonna swap out for a 750.

im glad to hear the mount holes are the same, because i really was unsure of that, so in reality this swap is quite simple, probly could be done in a weekend or so with the assistance of my father and his tools. and considering i have the motor and most of the essential parts it shouldnt cost me more then 500 to get it in and running right?

i still need to know if 3rd gen. headers will fit properly (i dont think it should be a problem but if there is can some one please point me in the right direction)

 

That's the only snag to using an older block. All 3rd gen headers are designed for the passenger side dipstick. Your 69 would have a driver's side dipstick. ALL brand headers will interfere with the driver's side dipstick tube. I believe Lokar makes a flexible tube.

 

thanks alot.

do you guys think that putting out close to 400 crank would totaly rip apart a 15 year old transmission with an upgraded clutch and stock 10 bolt rearend? the rearend will be swapped as soon as i find one for under 2Gs or figure out it really needs it, then i really gotta find 2 gs.

 

That's wrong. I have a standard, off the shelf, non-flexible drivers side dipstick on my '75 400 block with 3rd gen Edelbrock TES headers. There are no clearance issues with the headers at all.

- Justin

 

WRONG! Hooker Super Comp headers (part # 2210) do not interfere with the stock dipstick. I simply went to Autozone and bought on of those cheap chrome dipsticks and never had any clearance issues. Unfortunately, this is the only chrome piece on the engine. I'm not a fan of chrome on thridgens.

 

i looked it up and flexible dipsticks are only 40$ its worth it to not have to even worry about it, and they look neat too.

i really would like to know what oil pan to use.

and if anyone can direct me to a good clutch/flywheel setup, somthin cheap and able to hold 400HP.

other questions still stand lol, i can tell this forum is going to be ALOT of help for me as soon as i start im gonna make a journal site.

 

You're going to have to spend a lot of money to keep a T5 behind a powerful engine. GM never installed a T5 behind a 350 because they knew it wouldn't last.

 

I know $40 doesn't seem like much, but when I was doing my project car I got to the point I was only spending money on the most important of go-fast items.


As for the oil pan, any car type oil pan will work fine for frame clearance. Just be sure you don't get one that has any dents on the sealing surfaces (especially front and rear seals) or you'll be hating life later when the engine is installed and it leaks.

 

so im probly better off with a muncie 4 speed is what your telling me, were pushing a 409bbc with 450 crank threw a muncie m20 and it holds up nicely, if i can come up with the cash ill get a richmond 5 or even 6 speed.

 

right now the only go fast items i really need are headers/cut cutoffs, and a carb, if 40$ avoids problems im all for it.

 

A factory driver's side dipstick tube will NOT clear either Edelbrock or SLP's headers. It wasn't even close on my car. I never bother with the cheap Taiwan manufactured AutoZone stuff, so I cannot comment on those. A flexible tube fixed my problem. In addition, I am not the only persone I know with an older small block swap that encountered the same clearance issue.

Nate95Z28 - not all car oil pans will work well. They may clear the K-member, but some will leave very little clearance between the K-member and pan. The driver's side exhaust pipe runs right through there, and a larger diameter Y-pipe will not fit very well.

 

so about the oil pan would an earlymodel pan work? maby modify the stock pan? not somthing i wanna fool around with though, not looking for leaks.

 

Only if you can find some way around the bellhousing problem. You'd be better off installing a T56 if you insist on having a manual transmission. It's an easier swap but also more expensive. At least the T56 will survive better.