400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
This is what I'm looking at, and I have the shortblock as of right now, but I'm still throwing around ideas for the topend. I thought about posting it in the LT1 forum since the miniram is almost the same thing, but I didn't want to upset any moderators...
350 4 bolt main, .030 over
Forged TRW .100 dome pistons
Forged Polished eagle I beam rods
Forged eagle crank
ARP fasteners
Miniram III w/ Edelbrock ETEC 200cc heads(or Miniram with AFR 195s?)
30# SVO injectors
CC306 or GM 847 cam ????
Comp retro roller lifters, Comp pro magnum 1.6 RRs, Comp hi-tech 1 piece chromemoly pushrods
I have a 700R4, and it will have a 3000rpm stall. How streetable or unstreetable would this setup be, and how long do you think it would live? I'm aiming for 400rwhp. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.
350 4 bolt main, .030 over
Forged TRW .100 dome pistons
Forged Polished eagle I beam rods
Forged eagle crank
ARP fasteners
Miniram III w/ Edelbrock ETEC 200cc heads(or Miniram with AFR 195s?)
30# SVO injectors
CC306 or GM 847 cam ????
Comp retro roller lifters, Comp pro magnum 1.6 RRs, Comp hi-tech 1 piece chromemoly pushrods
I have a 700R4, and it will have a 3000rpm stall. How streetable or unstreetable would this setup be, and how long do you think it would live? I'm aiming for 400rwhp. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.
Re: 400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
Originally Posted by Hg
Do you think those are good cams for 400rwhp? Probably fairly streetable with a 3K stall?
Re: 400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
Originally Posted by Dave89IROC
yes, the 4 bolt mains , crank and rods are overkill for 400hp, but it will be pretty strong
Re: 400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
Combo looks pretty good. The only question I would have is the dome pistons. If your block was milled for '0' deck height on the pistons you may run into clearance issues. I would use the flat tops and then use the cam that Edelbrock has in their power package for 435 hp, this way the cam and heads would be matched which is what you want to do (compatible components). Since you're going to use a miniram, call Edelbrock and investigate if their heads and cam package will equal 435 hp as they advertise using the miniram since their package uses a air gap manifold and carb. They may have already done a dyno test with a similar setup and could give you info on the power potential.
Re: 400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
i like your combo it resembles one of my previous set ups,the only things i would change is;go to a 3500 stall,4.10 gears,et streets26x10s,weigh in at 3275 w/o driver and driver skill you should run some strong 11s i used perf.resource for the chip,pcm forless is capable as well...
Re: 400RWHP 355, how does this setup look?
Thats pretty similare to my setup. I'm running a 383 though with a T56. I dynoed 367 rwhp on the stock chip running 9.6:1 AFR
Your compression ratio will also help determine what kind of numbers and drivability. You need to look into the future a little. If your planning on running N/A for ever... flat tops are good. If you want N2O, fordged flat tops with valve reliefs and a higher compression like 11.1:1 would be ideal. If you want a blower, your going to need to get the dished pistons with a compression around 8.6:1.
Try to get a tuned chip b4 you start up and stay away from double molly rings. IMHO... My chip wasn't tuned proper and it caused the motor to wash out the rings. Double Molly rings are tuff as hell but they really are too strong. I've heard stories of blocks wearing out b4 the rings do. Total Seal Gapless rings are the way to go. Typical rings have a leak down of about 10% while the total seal have a leak down of 2%.
Just some food for thought.
Your compression ratio will also help determine what kind of numbers and drivability. You need to look into the future a little. If your planning on running N/A for ever... flat tops are good. If you want N2O, fordged flat tops with valve reliefs and a higher compression like 11.1:1 would be ideal. If you want a blower, your going to need to get the dished pistons with a compression around 8.6:1.
Try to get a tuned chip b4 you start up and stay away from double molly rings. IMHO... My chip wasn't tuned proper and it caused the motor to wash out the rings. Double Molly rings are tuff as hell but they really are too strong. I've heard stories of blocks wearing out b4 the rings do. Total Seal Gapless rings are the way to go. Typical rings have a leak down of about 10% while the total seal have a leak down of 2%.
Just some food for thought.
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