i just got my engine back. was a 350 (3970010), but now is a 383... has an eagle stroker kit. the problem is when i try to start it, the starter does not mesh close enough to the flexplate, it grinds and crunches, will start the engine about 3 times, then goes to only grinding, and no engine movement. the flywheel is from a 400. they tell me it is a standard 400 flywheel..... does that mean 153 or 168 teeth..... its about 10.5:1 compression, but not broken in yet, i have ran it an hour in the driveway, and drove it 20 miles(under 3000RPM). it is hard to turn the flywheel by hand. not sure if that is cuz the compression, new rings seating.... runs great, its not locked up, but is very hard to turn.... the starter is from the 350 that was in it before. its the one with the offset holes, not the straight across holes... the first time it started 3 times, and solenoid went bad. so i bought a new one. then it started 3 times, and chipped the ends of the teeth on the starter.... took the starter had it rebuilt, new gear.. works great. 3 times, then starts making the same noise. grinds and will not start the engine. so then i bought a new starter, take a guess... starts 3 times, then starts making the same noise. i have tried all kinds of shim configurations... with no shims is the best so far, and still not close enough. if i shim the outside hole, it kind of 'twists' the starter, possibly a fraction closer, started 1 time, then same thing again... i have been to auto parts stores everywhere... i have called summit racing... have asked many many ppl and nobody knows how to fix this. some say get a high torque starter (shop that built the engine says it shouldnt need one) some say could be the wrong flywheel. what gets me is... if it meshes good enough to start 3 times, then it should start every time. am i tearing the starter apart from the high compression???? the flywheel is in good condition, was looking for worn teeth. only 2 teeth (due to my trying to start when it wasnt lined up right) the starter teeth are in good shape now ( on the new one) but still will not turn the engine. if i take either starter out and test it, they work perfectly, bendix comes out, spins good and fast. possibly the gear mechenism in the starter gear is internally damaged...the one way bearing in there????? i dont want to go spend 300 on a high torque starter, and have it destroyed in one day. what can i do, its driving me krazy. almost tempted to take to the chevy dealer down the street. and i usually dont let people work on my car. prefer to do it myself. just stumped this time. somebody please help. i know im missing somthing simple probably.

 

400 is the big flexplate w/168 teeth and goes with the offset hole starter. Other than the shimming, another thing that can cause engagement problems is starter bolts with crooked tips. Or even incorrect bolts.

The bolts have knurled shanks that register in the block (kind of like dowel pins), so the shanks have to stick thru the starter body a bit. I forget exactly how much, maybe 1/8 - 3/16". You'll see the 1st 1/4" or so of the starter bolt holes is not threaded so it can receive the knurled bolt shanks.

If the bolts are correct, the next thing to check is the tips. Roll the shank of the bolts on the edge of a table or a piece of glass. The tips must not wobble at all. I've seen just one crooked tip cause the starter nose to shift over enough to cause grinding. If you need new bolts, you can get them in the Help! section of parts stores.

If an engine backfired during startup at some time, that can bend the bolt tips, they are pretty small diameter. A fresh 10.5-1 400 will be tough to turn, so that's normal. Keep initial timing around 8* during break in period to make it easier to turn over.

As far as adjustment, I use the 1/8" rod method (or 1/8" drill bit shank). Here is a page that shows this method:

http://marinemechanic.com/site/page169.html

Last, see how breaking up a long post into paragraphs makes it a lot easier to read? A lot of guys will look at a long, paragraph less post and not even bother to read it. Good luck with your starter issues.

 

I think I may know what your problem is. I have a Eagle cast steel 383 as well in my Camaro, but Im using a T-56 tranny. When I first put the 6 speed behind my L98 there was no problem. Upgrade to the 383 and now the car wont start?!?!

I replaced 2 LT1 starters and couldent figure out why the car dident seem to have enough power to turn the motor over? New Optima battery, new starters, cables checked out good????

Then one day my friend gets in the car to start it and it started right up!! The first time the 383 ran! Of course I ask him what he did and he said "nothing" so I get in and try to start it, and same old problem???? He gets back in and it fires right up?!?!? WTF!!!!

Long story short, it turns out my clutch fork was hitting my pressure plate, beacuse the new Eagle 383 (one piece rear seal) crank sticks out past the one piece adapter further than the stock crank. SO, when I was trying to start the car I pushed the clutch to the floor causing it to hit, and my buddy only pushed the clutch halfway in.

I havent had the chipped teeth issue on my starter yet, but it seems to me like your Eagle crank may have the same issue as mine, where it is actually "spaced" further back twords your transmission not allowing your starter full teeth engaugement on your flywheel, causing them to chip off.

As for me, I ended up notching my throwout fork to clear my pressure plate, seems to be working now.

 

ill have to check that end clearance. thanks. also the starter bolts. i have an automatic (Turbo 350) trans, and i have not been able to find anything hitting or rubbing. think i will take my solenoid off and push the bendix and gear out and see how its lininig up. if it doesnt come out far enough, then we found the problem.... but how to solve it.... i appreciate all the advice i can get. you guys are great

 

starter bolts are good. end clearance looks good. i shimmed in further, (outside hole only) it got closer, but still not close enough...

it has chipped away at this flexplate already. looks to me like it is definately the wrong flexplate! and of course its saturday and the shop that built it is closed til monday... i have another flexplate here with the correct teeth on it, but it is not externally balanced, so it wont work on here. i found some on ebay for around 35-45 bucks ...but i think i might just wait til monday and make them replace it since they are the ones that gave me the wrong one.