ok guys, I know I haven't been in here in a LONG time, but I need some help. I am trying to find some info on a 383 stroker. I am just curious about the mileage you can get out of one. I have read some things that state when you stroke one, it puts a lot of stress on the cylinder walls/pistons. It has an affect on the piston skirts and the rings. This in turn wears out the rings and pistons alot sooner. IS THIS TRUE?

If I end up building one, who makes the best kits? price?
It will be for a 91 Z28 tpi car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

A guy over on TGO told me that durability of a properly built 355 and 383 will be the same. I don't see how that can be true over the span of 10's of thousands of miles. Go with 5.7" rods, less cylinder wall pressure/piston speed.

For rotating assemblies: www.legaceperformance.com has forged balanced Eagle assemblies for 1485 and cast for like 1200. Or go to www.flatlanderracing.com and make a custom kit, that's what I'd do. Good luck and let us all know how it goes!

Corey

 

That depends. If you get one from some backyard mechanic, beware. LPE has a 383 that is warrantied for 2 yr 24000 miles and they know you will beat the **** out of it.

Bottom line is if you have it done right and not shove components that are not matched into the block and have the block sonic checked for core shift, you should be fine.

 

Billy Trammel! What the hell's been going on man? Long time no post for sure.

There is probably a large physics formula that you could use to figure out how many more miles a 350 or 383 would last but it's really up to who builds and exactly HOW it's built. Some stock engines don't last 1000 miles and some throw together junk low budget engines last several vehicles. It's hard to argue with the added cubic inches of a 383 so I'd do it and never look back. Goodluck and keep us up to date if you can, a few of us here spray our cars because we seen what yours ran like(really well!). My "bolt on" 305 seen 12.80's @ 107.5 with a decent shot at the last track outing. First and only pass of that night with REAL tires, etc. later man!

 

Hate to burst your bubble, but a 6.0 inch rod will produce less wall pressure because the piston won't be drawn as far down in the cylinder as it will with a 5.7 inch rod on a stroker engine.

As far as longevity, it depends on how well the engine is built, and how it is driven. Use good, quality forged parts, and it should last alot longer than one built with cheaper cast parts. Also, if you gun it at every stop light it isn't going to last as long as one that some grandma drives.

 

I hate to burst YOUR bubble, but rod length won't affect how far down the bore a piston will travel. Crankshaft throw and deck height determine the highest/lowest points of piston travel. You're right about the longer rod producing less stress though. A longer rod will produce a shallower thrust angle against the cylinder wall as the crank pushes the piston up the bore, therefore creating less friction between the piston rings and the cylinder walls.

 

Blueprinting and balancing with a good harmonic balancer will add to the life of the engine.

 

Does anyone have a ballpark price as to how much it would cost to build one of these? I have no idea since I never built a motor from scratch and I plan on doing this or having it done.

 

SB or LB? If LB, do they supply the heads or do you?

 

SB and I would build the heads.

 

Probably about 4 grand if you are doing it with a good set of forged internals and they do all the good machine work to the block including checking for core shift.

 

thanks AutoRoc
mine did run really well with no more than what it had. It was a lot of fun.

 

Let me rephrase what I said and see if that makes a little more sense. Yes, the crankshaft throw does determine how far a piston will travel. What I was trying to get across is that a longer rod will keep the pison higher in the cylinder than a smaller rod which, as you said, will produce a shallower thrust angle and produce less cylinder wall stress. That was my original point, but I couldn't think of how to say it properly. Thanks.

Ps. The cost for my Eagle rotating assembly was $1700 before I sent it to Swaintech for their coating. Total after all was said and done was around $2100. Hope that helps.

 

depends on who builds it and how it is built. also depends on its primary use.obviously, a motor built for drag racing is going to be under a lot more stress than a street motor. i have seen them last days and others last years w/o problems.

 

Aklim - any info on LPE, contact info / web addy???

97 WS6SCharged - what coating did you have put on by swaintech and what did that do for you, make the parts even stronger? Are your eagle parts forged?