Has anyone had success changing from a 305 to a 350 and kept the stock clutch? any other problems I should look out for? This car is box stock, all orginal.
later
Mike

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Stone stock 84 Z28 305/T-5, missing one con rod, exited thru pan!!! 350 has been purchased awaiting the install...

[This message has been edited by boneheadzz (edited September 04, 2002).]

 

Well since they didnt make a 5-speed 350, there is no clutch for it.

Esentially its a "V8" clucth, everything is interchangeable with a small block, regardless if its a 305 or 350.

Just make sure that you buy a heavy duty clutch, (i.e. centerforce, star spec, hays, or ram)

I have a centerforce Dual Friction in my car and its works pretty good.(as long as I dont use slicks)

Also plan on rebuilding your trans,the T-5's are only rated to about 325 ft. lbs.(I've rebuilt mine once, it blew from the slicks, but now I just use street tires and it seems fine)

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1989 IROC-Z 355 M5
13.0@104
MACC All Camaro Show-
1st Place
3rd Gen Modified

1988 Chevrolet K-5 Blazer
6000 lbs. of a real SUV

2001 Yamaha Raptor
92 mph on radar!

 

I wouldn't worry about it. You'll grenade that non world-class T5 long before the clutch begins to slip anyway.

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The IROC Homepage
View the Restoration of an 85 IROC
Weekend projects aren't.

 

I have a centerforce Dual Friction in my car and its works pretty good.(as long as I dont use slicks)

[/B][/QUOTE]

I thought that clutch was for slicks?
also is there alot of difference in petal feel than from a factory clutch


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R.I.P Dale Earnhardt 3 Nascar isn`t the same without you
1985 Z28 My pride and joy
LG4 305 5spd T-tops 3:23 posi 2.5" exshust mild street cam Accel wires shorty plugs cap rotor and a H.E.I super coil
5.0L BEWARE
http://Chevy-Camaro-Z28.CZ28.com
Speed limits Whats that???
Kills 1/0

 

I thought that clutch was for slicks?
also is there alot of difference in petal feel than from a factory clutch


[/B][/QUOTE]

Well it slips on really hard launches, dunno maybe I didnt break it in good enough(although I did put 2000 on before any hard launches)its starting to show its age 35000 miles now.


As for the petal feel I'd say about a 10-15% increase in pressure.




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1989 IROC-Z 355 M5
13.0@104
MACC All Camaro Show-
1st Place
3rd Gen Modified

1988 Chevrolet K-5 Blazer
6000 lbs. of a real SUV

2001 Yamaha Raptor
92 mph on radar!

 

A petal is what a flower has. You're looking for the pedal.

Hays or Ram are similar to stock clutches with more holding power. McLeod is the best quality clutch in my opinion. Centerforce is just a gimmick.

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1991 Camaro Z28
350 L98 w/ T56 (originally 305 LB9 w/ T5)
318 RWHP, 419 RWTQ
12.803 @ 108.50 MPH (1.932 60')
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
ThirdGen 4-Life!

 

I decided to run with a SPEC clutch when I did the 6-speed swap and absolutely LOVE it. Hasn't slipped once in the year I've been driving on it (although I haven't put slicks on the back yet) and the pedal pressure isn't bad at all. McLeods are pretty nice too from what I've been told, but I hear a lot of bad things about Centerforce clutches...that they slip when hot and sometimes don't release all the way.

If you don't drive it hard you could go ahead and run a stock replacement 305 clutch, and that'll also help keep you from blowin the trans I should think. If the clutch doesn't grab enough to put the power to the gearbox, how's it gonna grenade? You'll torch clutches a lot though....

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TheGreatJ
1991 Camaro RS "Suzanne"
http://thegreatj.cz28.com

[This message has been edited by TheGreatJ (edited September 07, 2002).]

 

Yeah I dont like centerforce.

I think im going to go with a STAR SPEC stage 2 or 3.



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1989 IROC-Z 355 M5
13.0@104
MACC All Camaro Show-
1st Place
3rd Gen Modified

1988 Chevrolet K-5 Blazer
6000 lbs. of a real SUV

2001 Yamaha Raptor
92 mph on radar!

 

Everything will work just fine, get a SPEC clutch, save for T5s!

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1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; th350 & 10" converter.

1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Edelbrock Headers; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; Sphoon LCA RB; Adj. PHR; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; Ported & Polished MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Comp Magnum Pro 1.52 RR and guideplates; CSI Electric Waterpump; !TB; !AIR; Spec Stage II clutch; 1LE driveshaft (stock); 21mm rear sway bar; LT4 KM;

 

OK, so a clutch replacement is probably a good idea... but how viable is a t-56 swap?
1. Are prices for T-56's getting more affordable?
2. T-56 clutch is a pull-style instead of the push style T-5, right?
3. How do I get it to work on my 2-piece rear-main seal 350?
4. Is a custom flywheel needed?

thanks
Mike