1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
Hey all, brand new member here. Recently purchased an '88 IROC Z28 and while doing a tune up on the 305 TPI, I have several basic questions that I need your assistance on. Part numbers would be helpful too.
I must add that my job requires me that I drive an 18 wheeler rig and I do not have much home time to spend on my newest hobby so when I get a chance to go home I will log on and start wrenching from all the advice I can get from you all. Thanks in advance.
1: PH30 is the standard oil filter, any size larger I can use? I see I have more room for a longer filter.
2: 5 qts of oil is the spec for a stock PH30 I am guessing, if I go with a longer filter, would 6 qts be adequate?
2: Fuel Filter location and wrench sizes I need? I have the fuel filter.
3: There are 2 K/N air filters are in their stock locations, I would like to replace the snorkel assembly with a more direct K/N filter I see particular TPI's use for an air induction. What type?
4: Stock alternator looks smaller than what my 1996 3800 V6 uses lol, time for an upgrade? Part number would help. Stock stereo to be replaced for a decent system soon.
5: Starter motor I may need to replace but a high torque unit is desireable, any companies cater to that item or stick to the stock AC Delco unit?
6: I am doing the tranny & rear end fluid flush soon. I know GM has additives for the rear but my question what are good fluids to replace them with. I hear Red Line and Mobil are good but I am doing a quality job here, need your input.
7: My steering wheel is small at the grip, I could use a name of a decent company to swap that and get that boy racer look, any names?
8: My engine code has an F, what kind of motor do I have? I highly doubt it's an LG4 motor since those are carbed I believe.
9: I have an overdrive tranny, is it the 700-R4?
10: I counted 10 bolts on my rear end housing, what type of differential and gear ratio do I have?
11: Haynes, Chiltons or Helms repair manuals. Which to choose from? I will be getting in deep with this Camaro.
OK that's it for now.
Alex
I must add that my job requires me that I drive an 18 wheeler rig and I do not have much home time to spend on my newest hobby so when I get a chance to go home I will log on and start wrenching from all the advice I can get from you all. Thanks in advance.
1: PH30 is the standard oil filter, any size larger I can use? I see I have more room for a longer filter.
2: 5 qts of oil is the spec for a stock PH30 I am guessing, if I go with a longer filter, would 6 qts be adequate?
2: Fuel Filter location and wrench sizes I need? I have the fuel filter.
3: There are 2 K/N air filters are in their stock locations, I would like to replace the snorkel assembly with a more direct K/N filter I see particular TPI's use for an air induction. What type?
4: Stock alternator looks smaller than what my 1996 3800 V6 uses lol, time for an upgrade? Part number would help. Stock stereo to be replaced for a decent system soon.
5: Starter motor I may need to replace but a high torque unit is desireable, any companies cater to that item or stick to the stock AC Delco unit?
6: I am doing the tranny & rear end fluid flush soon. I know GM has additives for the rear but my question what are good fluids to replace them with. I hear Red Line and Mobil are good but I am doing a quality job here, need your input.
7: My steering wheel is small at the grip, I could use a name of a decent company to swap that and get that boy racer look, any names?
8: My engine code has an F, what kind of motor do I have? I highly doubt it's an LG4 motor since those are carbed I believe.
9: I have an overdrive tranny, is it the 700-R4?
10: I counted 10 bolts on my rear end housing, what type of differential and gear ratio do I have?
11: Haynes, Chiltons or Helms repair manuals. Which to choose from? I will be getting in deep with this Camaro.
OK that's it for now.
Alex
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
#1, thats the fram number, i'm sure theres a larger one i dont know the number
#2, the larger filter will hold an extra half a quart
#2, again, fuel filter is located by the rear differential easily accessible by taking off the drivers side rear tire
#3, i can't help you there
#4, you can get a high output alternator but it will probably be the same exact size
#5, if you want a smaller PMGR (permanent magenet gear reduction) for cheap, just get the stock starter for a 92-97 corvette, it will bolt right in.
#6, The rear only needs a limited slip additive if you have a limited slip differential, the tranny just takes dexron 3, if you wanna use redline or modil 1, go right ahead
#7, i cant help you with that
#8, Engine code F if i remember correctly is the l69, the 305 tuned port
#9, yes the 4speed overdrive automatic transmission in your 88 iroc is a 700R4
#10, your rear end is a 10-bolt rear, the gear ratio varies, check the rpo codes to find out what ratio you have
#11, i have both haynes and chiltons, they're cheap enough to get both
welcome to the board
word of advice, put all the specs on your car into your signature so that you dont have to type it up everytime and everyone knows what kinda car you're talking about
also, the search feature can help out alot
you may want to try it for the cold air intake, the rpo number for your gear ratio, and whatever else i couldnt answer
#2, the larger filter will hold an extra half a quart
#2, again, fuel filter is located by the rear differential easily accessible by taking off the drivers side rear tire
#3, i can't help you there
#4, you can get a high output alternator but it will probably be the same exact size
#5, if you want a smaller PMGR (permanent magenet gear reduction) for cheap, just get the stock starter for a 92-97 corvette, it will bolt right in.
#6, The rear only needs a limited slip additive if you have a limited slip differential, the tranny just takes dexron 3, if you wanna use redline or modil 1, go right ahead
#7, i cant help you with that
#8, Engine code F if i remember correctly is the l69, the 305 tuned port
#9, yes the 4speed overdrive automatic transmission in your 88 iroc is a 700R4
#10, your rear end is a 10-bolt rear, the gear ratio varies, check the rpo codes to find out what ratio you have
#11, i have both haynes and chiltons, they're cheap enough to get both
welcome to the board
word of advice, put all the specs on your car into your signature so that you dont have to type it up everytime and everyone knows what kinda car you're talking about
also, the search feature can help out alot
you may want to try it for the cold air intake, the rpo number for your gear ratio, and whatever else i couldnt answer
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
1.) I wouldn't worry too much about hte larger oil filter, the stock size is just fine. Just remember when you put it in, you fill up the oil filter with clean oil first. It will take about 3/4 of a quart. Do NOT overtighten.
2.) All you need is an oil filter strap wrench. You can pick one up at autozone for under 10$
3.) KNN-RC-5000 KNN-RC-5050 KNN-RC-5004 @ www.summitracing.com. Those are three different sizes, so check to see which one will fit best. I have heard that power is lost in some cases with these over the stock setup with dual KNs because of the fact that it draws in hot engine air.
4.) Your stock alternator will do fine. Wait until a problem exists before you dump money on that. If you are drawing low power with your sound system, then get one, but you should be fine.
5.) You dont really NEED a high torque starter, but if you want one, you can get a starter from an LT1 camaro. I've read on this board that not only are they stronger, but they are lighter too. You can find high torque mini starters at summit racing too, but they are about 100$
6.) For the gear oil, you want a 75w90 with limited slip additive (which comes in I think an 8oz squeeze bottle). I used lucas oil, but redline and mobile are fine. As long as it isnt the store brand or valuecraft its all good, lol. It might be worth getting one of those fluid injector guns for this job because the bottle is so big, you can only bring it up to a level that is parallel with the ground, and it is so hard to get the rest in, unless you do what I did and transfer the oil into the smaller empty limited slip bottle and do it little by little.
8.) Engine code is a 5.0 305 TPI, which is an LB9
9.) Yes
10.) 10 Bolt posi traction unit (if it is hasnt been swapped out). Most likely you have 2.73 gears, but there was a G92 option which were 3.23 gears. Check your option numbers on your door panel to see if that exists
11.) I have a Haynes manual and it hasnt failed me yet.
2.) All you need is an oil filter strap wrench. You can pick one up at autozone for under 10$
3.) KNN-RC-5000 KNN-RC-5050 KNN-RC-5004 @ www.summitracing.com. Those are three different sizes, so check to see which one will fit best. I have heard that power is lost in some cases with these over the stock setup with dual KNs because of the fact that it draws in hot engine air.
4.) Your stock alternator will do fine. Wait until a problem exists before you dump money on that. If you are drawing low power with your sound system, then get one, but you should be fine.
5.) You dont really NEED a high torque starter, but if you want one, you can get a starter from an LT1 camaro. I've read on this board that not only are they stronger, but they are lighter too. You can find high torque mini starters at summit racing too, but they are about 100$
6.) For the gear oil, you want a 75w90 with limited slip additive (which comes in I think an 8oz squeeze bottle). I used lucas oil, but redline and mobile are fine. As long as it isnt the store brand or valuecraft its all good, lol. It might be worth getting one of those fluid injector guns for this job because the bottle is so big, you can only bring it up to a level that is parallel with the ground, and it is so hard to get the rest in, unless you do what I did and transfer the oil into the smaller empty limited slip bottle and do it little by little.
8.) Engine code is a 5.0 305 TPI, which is an LB9
9.) Yes
10.) 10 Bolt posi traction unit (if it is hasnt been swapped out). Most likely you have 2.73 gears, but there was a G92 option which were 3.23 gears. Check your option numbers on your door panel to see if that exists
11.) I have a Haynes manual and it hasnt failed me yet.
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
#7) I have had two Grant wheels in my Z. They're available at the big chain auto parts stores. My current one is black leather with Arrest Me Red leather accents, $99 and it bol,ts on pretty easy. Though I think your 88 has an airbag whereas my 86 doesn't (airbags are for pussies
).
#11) Haynes and Chilton for me. You can never be too sure! Plus, one book will have slightly different recommendations from the other. When I replaced the heater core, Haynes said to take apart the whole dash assembly where Haynes showed how to do it with two parts removed. I went Haynes on that one!
).#11) Haynes and Chilton for me. You can never be too sure! Plus, one book will have slightly different recommendations from the other. When I replaced the heater core, Haynes said to take apart the whole dash assembly where Haynes showed how to do it with two parts removed. I went Haynes on that one!
Last edited by DCJLove; Oct 4, 2006 at 01:55 PM.
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
Originally Posted by LesPaulGoth
5.) You dont really NEED a high torque starter, but if you want one, you can get a starter from an LT1 camaro. I've read on this board that not only are they stronger, but they are lighter too. You can find high torque mini starters at summit racing too, but they are about 100$
the lt1 camaro starters are much lighter and do bolt right on, but the lt1 corvette starters are pmgr, lighter and more torque, my opinion is to go with the corvette starter
Originally Posted by LesPaulGoth
8.) Engine code is a 5.0 305 TPI, which is an LB9
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
Fram PH-13 is the larger filter. This is all I've ever used.
Helms is by far the best manual. It is "the" shop manual while the others are made to be sold to consumers. It has info that neither the other two has. Well worth the $$$ many times over.
Helms is by far the best manual. It is "the" shop manual while the others are made to be sold to consumers. It has info that neither the other two has. Well worth the $$$ many times over.
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
1. stick with the stocker unles you're towing a boat fill with oil till the dip stick says full
2. buy a cheap set of flare nut wrenches you'll be good, I got a set I use at home that cost less then $10, not the greatest and would consider using at work but are fine at home
3. stick with the stock filter location, its a cold air intake,
and with MAF you can't put a cone K&N on the thottle body, which I've also seen people lose time in the 1/4 going to that style
4.stock alt is 105 amp more then enough, if anything upgrade the size of the charging wire, I run a 1000watt amp off my stocker but kill an alt every 2 years or so
5.buy a starter off an LT1 camaro, go Delco or forget it
6.with an auto tranny if it has high km and the fluid hasn't been changed just leave it, unless you're ready to put a tranny in it, for the rear add GM posi addative
7. Grant makes nice wheels
8.you got a 195hp 295pdft 305 TPI
9.700Rslushbucket is your tranny
10.2.73 or 3.23 most likely 2.73
11. alldata.com
2. buy a cheap set of flare nut wrenches you'll be good, I got a set I use at home that cost less then $10, not the greatest and would consider using at work but are fine at home
3. stick with the stock filter location, its a cold air intake,
and with MAF you can't put a cone K&N on the thottle body, which I've also seen people lose time in the 1/4 going to that style
4.stock alt is 105 amp more then enough, if anything upgrade the size of the charging wire, I run a 1000watt amp off my stocker but kill an alt every 2 years or so
5.buy a starter off an LT1 camaro, go Delco or forget it
6.with an auto tranny if it has high km and the fluid hasn't been changed just leave it, unless you're ready to put a tranny in it, for the rear add GM posi addative
7. Grant makes nice wheels
8.you got a 195hp 295pdft 305 TPI
9.700Rslushbucket is your tranny
10.2.73 or 3.23 most likely 2.73
11. alldata.com
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
Originally Posted by 89Vert
3. stick with the stock filter location, its a cold air intake,
and with MAF you can't put a cone K&N on the thottle body, which I've also seen people lose time in the 1/4 going to that style
and with MAF you can't put a cone K&N on the thottle body, which I've also seen people lose time in the 1/4 going to that style
Totally forgot about that reason. He is right, stick to the setup you have now, just get some square K&N filters.
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
Random thoughts. The fuel filter, if I remember right is a real tight fit with a 5/8" wrench even though it's actually a metric. Does the car have rear disc brakes? Look for a rubber fill plug on the rear end cover. If so it's the Australian gear. Look for rpo codes in the console box starting with letter G for the codes. Stock alternator is a smaller unit, and expensive, but should be over 100 amp output, pretty stout unit. Had bad luck with synthetic gear lube in used differentials, I would not recommend it. Good old dextron in the tranny since you really can't flush out all the old oil. Don't overtighten the tranny pan bolts. Big trouble if you distort the case just a bit and the pump seal starts leaking.
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
Originally Posted by tom2
Random thoughts. The fuel filter, if I remember right is a real tight fit with a 5/8" wrench even though it's actually a metric. Does the car have rear disc brakes? Look for a rubber fill plug on the rear end cover. If so it's the Australian gear. Look for rpo codes in the console box starting with letter G for the codes. Stock alternator is a smaller unit, and expensive, but should be over 100 amp output, pretty stout unit. Had bad luck with synthetic gear lube in used differentials, I would not recommend it. Good old dextron in the tranny since you really can't flush out all the old oil. Don't overtighten the tranny pan bolts. Big trouble if you distort the case just a bit and the pump seal starts leaking.
that 305 autos never got a 9 bolt to my knowledge
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
If you do decide to replace the fuel filter, BE CAREFUL! It is common for the fittings on either end as well as the fuel lines to rust up after time, so if you try to force them loose, you could end up snapping your fuel line altogether! Use PB blaster, and soak the bolts for a good while. You can find it at your local auto store, its a rust penetrating fluid in a spray can, with a yellow cap.
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
the lines that fit the fuel filter are fairly common at parts stores, autozone has them last i checked, so if you break the old ones, just use a tube cutter to remove the damaged peice and get some rubber fuel line hose and clamps and splice it a new piece of tube
basically if you bust it up, its not a hard fix
basically if you bust it up, its not a hard fix
Re: 1988 IROC Z28 Basic Help Needed
I recommend REDLINE rear gear fluid. You need to count the number of bolts on the rear end. If 9 bolts, you do not need friction modifier. If 10 bolts, you will need to use the stuff ONLY from GM.
If you need any further help, try here: www.thirdgentech.com
Enjoy your IROC!!
If you need any further help, try here: www.thirdgentech.com
Enjoy your IROC!!
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wow, you guys are awesome, thx a million! 