Paalk

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum and find it very helpfull over here in Norway. There is so much knowledge here I can't even dream of finding in this country, so thanks guys for sharing.
Now to my question, I have tried a search but couldn't find anything so please bare with me if this is something which is asked before I want to lower my Z28 and thinking about the Eibach Pro Kit or the other Eibach kit which lowers 1.8". Is there anything else involved in this than swap the springs? Is there anything else you guys recommend that I do after changing the springs? Or is it just swap springs and have fun?
Sorry, if my English is not up to par not my native tongue you know
Any input is appreciated.

Paalk

Nobody? Or am I unclear?

jloshotz

A fourth gen Camaro in Norway, sweet! I didn't even know they existed over there. Is it a left hand drive model or a USA import?

Paalk

It's imported from the US in '98, only 34000 miles on it. Looks like new so it turns heads over here We have a lot of Camaroes here but more 1. gen and some early '80s cars. Our tax system prohibits us to buy the 5. Gen and even some of the late 4. Gen Camaroes. A new Camaro will cost $320.000,- over here he he madness huh?

Injuneer

When you change the springs, you also need to:

-use stronger shock absorbers to control the motion of the springs

-install an adjustable panhard rod to allow the body of the car to be recentered over the rear axle.

-if you are using the car for aggressive acceleration, it would be helpful to install lower control arm relocation brackets. When you lower the chassis, the front end of the lower control arm (LCA), attached to the chassis, drops level with or lower than the axle end of the LCA, and this will promote "wheel hop" and poor traction on heavy acceleration.

-wheel alignment must be reset. I can give you a link to recommended specifications for lowered cars.

I don't think the Pro-Kit will drop it 1.8". And you better have very good roads, and no "speed bumps", or you will be dragging the bottom of the chassis on things.

Consider this source of matched springs and shock absorbers:

Strano Performance Parts - Parts Catalog

When changing the front springs, you will find them arranged in a "coil-over" configuration - springs on the shocks. You will need a spring compressor to separate the springs and shocks. Often, particularly if the vehicle has been exposed to salt on winter roads, the upper shock nut is rusted tight to the shock shaft. The shaft may need to be cut off. And often the upper spring/shock seat is in poor condition and needs to be replaced. When I installed lowering springs, my car was only 5 years old, and I bought the upper seats before I even took things apart.

parkers Z28

I lowered my 96 convertible and had nothing but problems
It was impossible to drive over speed bumps with four people in the car
and going up a driveway with a incline didn't go so well the spoiler kit and exhaust pipes would
rub .

Paalk

Thanks guys, so basically what you're saying is leave it like it is? It looks to me that it's a lot more involved than just lowering on these cars, I think I leave it be.

pkincy

I don't think it is all that difficult. You do need to match the springs and shocks. So a set of Bilstein's (good German company) matched with the Pro Kit would work nicely. Do not get the Eibach Sport Kit. That is the one that lowers the car a bit more than the Pro Kit. It does have an advantage in that the springs are softer and can be matched with the stock de Carbon shocks that came with the car. However that does bring up another question.....how well are those stock shocks working. I never found them to be much good after 20,000 miles.

Also you can pick up used sets of Bilstein or Koni shocks and Eibach Pro Kits if you watch the internet closely. Even if the Bilsteins or Konis are used up (and they last a LOT longer than 20,000 miles) they are rebuildable and probably at a better rate for you than us as they are German parts. And the cost here is quite reasonable.

I do disagree that you immediately need to go with a panhard bar although they too can be sourced very economically used.

Also I think that the ProKit drop of 1.25 inches is what the car needs to look good. Stock it sits too high.

IndianScout

great springs, they make springs for a lot of other companies who put their name on them..

link...

These springs come with a 10 year no sag warranty.

TobyZ28

HI Paalk, you may be interested in my setup:



I did a setup with Hotchkis 1" Lowering springs, Bilstein shocked valved to match from sam strano, with a 35mm hollow front sway-bar. The car handles phenomenally well.

The springs did lower the car a bit more than 1" and it is right now just at the limit of how low i would want to go with a car. An extra 1/4" clearance would be helpful Unless the speed-bumps are massive they're generally fine, larger bumps or slows I just attack at an angle. If you are going to go long-tubes however I would imagine you would be scraping nearly everything.

Personally I'm very happy with the look and feel of the car!

squarehead

Paalk don't give up on lowering the car! I personally only like the Camaro when it is lowered. I see stock cars around my town and they just look too high off their tires for my taste.

I have my 95 convertible lowered with a coil over kit in the front and adjustable spring kit in the rear, both from Ground Control. They make a kit for the Camaro that has Eibach springs and their proprietary coil over pieces to fit what ever shocks you have or are getting. The spring rates are chosen for a nicely aggressive balance of front to rear roll rate so the car really handles well.

You do have to be careful going over speed bumps and in and out of driveways but I don't mind and only scrape my catalytic converter occasionally!

Good luck!

ps TobyZ28 your car looks great!