Old 01-25-2003, 09:12 PM   #1
96 WS6
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Can somebody explain detail how to punch/tap the oil pan for the Vortech oil drain???

Just like the subject says. Hell I don't even know what a punch is, do you just get a hammer and hex screwdriver and just start pounding or what??? Also I know how to tap a hole but how do prevent fragments from getting in the oil pan?
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Old 01-25-2003, 11:56 PM   #2
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Hi,

I just recently talked to Keith at Forcefedperformance.com and he has a special way of doing it so that it won't leak and stuff like that. Try giving them a call so you can decide if you want to do it their more robust way and not have to worry about it anymore.

cheers
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Old 01-26-2003, 01:06 AM   #3
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Mine leaks really badly, even though I've RTV'd it over and over many times trying to get it to stop.

I'm going to pull the pan this winter and braze the fitting onto the pan, that oughta seal it.
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Old 01-26-2003, 04:30 AM   #4
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I have no clue how to do it any way let alone a robust way? I don't even understand the Vortech book... how do you punch the hole exactly?
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Old 01-26-2003, 06:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by 96 WS6
I have no clue how to do it any way let alone a robust way? I don't even understand the Vortech book... how do you punch the hole exactly?
>It does seem pretty intimidating doesn't it ?
Here is a link to their website and just follow page 10 , it's all in "layman's" terms .
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/4gh218im.pdf
or you could go to an auto parts , or plumbing / hardware store bring the hose with you , and get a self tapping "NPT" fitting (so to avoid any leaks later) , and after you drill the appropriate size hole in the oil pan ... just thread in the fitting and connect the hose to it (you should also get the correct fitting for the hose end too) .
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Old 01-26-2003, 01:18 PM   #6
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I used a uni-bit (coat with grease first) and made the hole the same size as the pipe thread fitting. Then I sprayed a crapload of brake cleaner through the hole, drained the oil and spray another can of brake cleaner through the hole.

Then I applied JB weld to the fitting and screwed it in. No leaks so far. I also installed a magnetic drain plug in case of stray metal filings.
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:23 PM   #7
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I will be removing the pan and soldering it with bronze... leak??? I dont think so.. now.. dropping the pan is a bit of work
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Old 01-27-2003, 11:23 AM   #8
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I basically did what Vortech suggested and haven't had a problem yet. But when talking to Keith at FFP, he has better fittings, connectors and tubings that he uses which he believes are much better than Vortech's.

If you haven't done yours yet, give him a call and see if you can pick up some ideas and help from him. Tell him I told you about his idea.

I had been hoping to drive my car over to you so you can see how it is all setup up since we have basically the same setup, but it is being prep for the final tuning.

I know you can't wait to get your car all done and feel that supercharger. But when you are done, make sure you at least get a baseline dyno with A/F to make sure everything is safe.

cheers

--Hugh
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Old 01-27-2003, 01:48 PM   #9
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For sure, thanks for all the advice Hugh. We should go to one of those GTG's and chop car game I called force fed performance yesterday and they were closed I'm about to call them right now though. Thanks again.
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Old 01-28-2003, 01:16 AM   #10
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I made a mistake by draining my oil first thing after the car was in the air... how can I make sure not to get any shavings in the oil pan???
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Old 01-28-2003, 12:52 PM   #11
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Damn....

Glad I don't have to tap into my oil pan for anything.

ATI is very nice

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Old 01-28-2003, 12:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by 96 WS6
I made a mistake by draining my oil first thing after the car was in the air... how can I make sure not to get any shavings in the oil pan???
my best guess would be take a magnet and put oil/brake cleaner/etc in and hopefully flush it out. Otherwise, just drop the pan and clean it out nicely. Sorry to hear about the above

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