Just wondering how much power a full bolt-on A4 LS1 Firehawk (1999) can make with proper tuning and what kind of 1/4 mile times should it run. The following is what I mean by full bolt on car.

SLP longtubes with high flow cats
LS6 intake
Underdrive pulley
SLP lid and ram air package
Smooth bellows
Larger throttle body
Larger MAF
Dyno tuning
1.8 rockers
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler
Shift kit
3.73 gears
Boxed lower control arms and panhard bar
SLP torque arm
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17

 

Why not ask on the LS1/LS2....... Tech forum?

Moving it there........

 

let's see.

SLP longtubes with high flow cats- probably 30hp with proper tuning.
LS6 intake- powerband mod mostly, you'll notice better throttle responce, but not much in the realm of hp gain. probably ~5-8hp max
Underdrive pulley-10hp
SLP lid and ram air package lid=10hp give or take, ram air package is useless
Smooth bellows-appearance mod
Larger throttle body- useless if you arn't running forced induction
Larger MAF-same
Dyno tuning- goes without saying
1.8 rockers- not much use, but you could probably get 5hp out of that
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler- here we go. expect a .4-.6 reduction in ET.
Shift kit- not technically needed, but would probably be best
3.73 gears- a must for drag
Boxed lower control arms and panhard bar
SLP torque arm
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17- careful with that rear end dude! 3.73s+radials+power does not stack well for your stock 10 bolt.

Overall, we're looking at maybe 340-360whp properly tuned. Expect ET's (at sealevel) of in the 12s for sure, probably very low 12s.

I would recommend saving some money on the unnecessarily expensive LTs and useless throttle body and putting it toward your 12 bolt. you'll need it.

Also, where's your catback? you'll need something less restrictive than stock, unless you're doing dumps anyway. I recommend the Magnaflow catback.

 

How much does a 12bolt run and how hard is the install?

 

SLP LTs and high flow cats will not get you 30HP more like a solid 15HP.

 

SLP longtubes with high flow cats-20rwhp
LS6 intake-8-10rwhp
Underdrive pulley-5-10rwhp
SLP lid and ram air package-5-10rwhp
Smooth bellows-0rwhp
Larger throttle body- ported stocker, or 80mm will yeild the same...5rwhp
Larger MAF-0rwhp
Dyno tuning-willbe needed to get all these gains
1.8 rockers-10rwhp
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler-will lower your rwhp, but the best mod so far...
Shift kit-0rwhp
3.73 gears-will also lower your rwhp on the dyno, but a great mod
Boxed lower control arms and panhard bar-0rwhp
SLP torque arm-0rwhp
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17-0rwhp

Soooo, you could see upwards of a 50rwhp gain. You will gain more if your car was initially a slug on the dyno and less if it was a "freak"...

 

1.8 rockers ... if it touches oil it's not a bolt on.

Between 330 and 345 rwhp. Don't sweat the 10 bolt, just preload the converter instead of flashing it ... I put 500 passes on mine and that was with slicks and the last 100 were H/C, before it went.

Times ... low 13s to mid 12s. Depends on how well you set up your suspension and how good you are at tuning it in for track conditions ... and of course how well you drive.

 

low 13s with all that work??? most ls1s run 13.0-13.5 stock...with some tires and those bolt ons? i say low 12 mid 12s....

 

How do you figure "if it touches oil it's not a bolt on"? Last time i checked, rockers bolted on. I've seen bolt on ls1's in the deep 12's

 

I've seen LS1's run 14's too.

Ok, let me get my Ricer HP calculator out....
[(+ advertised gains of each part) X the cool name] - (smaller injectors x push rod engine) / domestic ... I need to know what color the car is to get a close estimate but 325-350 whp.

 

I don't know about an A4 but quite a few M6 guys get over 350 rwhp w/ all boltons. I'd say 345-350 is average though.

 

Cam and heads "bolt on" too ... I draw the line if oil touches it.

And yeah I've seen lot's of bolt on LS1s in the low 12s ... I own one - see my sig. I also seen a guy copy me mod for mod and never got it under 13.3, before he put it in the wall on his 5th pass.

For every full bolt on LS1 I see in the mid to low 12s, I see 2 full bolt on LS1s that barely make it out of the 13s. Like I said it depends on how well the guy can tune his set up and how well he drives. If he doesn't own a tire guage and has heavy foot, he may see the wall before he sees a 12.

I'd give him low 12s, but he has 17" wheels and those will hold him back until he goes to a lighter wheels.

 

SLP longtubes with high flow cats- make it paceseter no cats and save $500
LS6 intake - good idea, but negligable
Underdrive pulley - master tuner in my area says
SLP lid and ram air package - lid is a must, ram air DOES help
Smooth bellows - i wasted $50, why shouldn't you?
Larger throttle body - not until FI or heads and cam
Larger MAF - same as throttle body
Dyno tuning - goes without saying
1.8 rockers - um... sure? not a bolt on tho, lotta work
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler - absolutely.
Shift kit - not a power adder, but needed
3.73 gears - absolutely
Boxed lower control arms and panhardbar - this is DRAG racing not autocross
SLP torque arm - when you make serious power, yes
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17 - get some slicks, and use that converter

all and all, once you get the hang of it, and mediocre weather, i put you at 350 rwhp and about a 12.5 at 106-107

 

i'm on the fence as to whether rockers are bolt on or not.

i mean...to run 1.8 rockers you have to swap springs...that goes a bit beyond "bolt on"

then again...a converter touches trans fluid...does that count as an oil?

 

yeah.... but.... i dunno


i consider rearend gears a bolt on...


but


i think... once you start f'in around with engine internals... its not a "bolt on"