Does anybody have real life flow #’s of the AFR LT4 210cc Race Ready heads? Don't know if to buy competition or race ready heads. Only interested in #'s up to .600"

 

I tested a set and found they were about 5 cfm less than advertised throughout the lift range. Mine peaked at 280 cfm at .700".

Mike

 

Mike,
I ordered mine yesterday and was just wondering how they flow right out of the box. Comparing the Race Ready and Competition as advertised, they flow just about the same up to .600” but cost $400 less. I’m just interested in flow #’s up to about .600” my cam: 230/236@.603”/.608”. Most people told me the 210cc are to big for my 396 project.

 

Ask those same people if they think a 210cc intake runner is too large for a 396 big block while yer talking to them. Then ask them if the small blocks 396 cubes are smaller than the big blocks 396 cubes..

 

210's too much for a 396? LMAO!!!

The 210's aren't too much for a 350!!! With a 396, I'd wouldn't hesitate to get the 220's.

Mike

 

Why did you buy the 210s then?? I mean you have a supercharger.. so 220s wouldn't be that large now would they?

 

Highlander, the AFR catalog used to say that the 220's had different valve spacing and required special valvetrain parts. I didn't want to have the headaches of screwy valvetrain geometry since I had a set of TFS Twisted Wedge heads that chewed up valveguides regularly.

Either they changed the catalog or the heads since then, because the 220's don't have altered valve locations anymore.

If I were to start over, I would go larger than 210's on my 383.

The problem with the 227's is that they move the exhaust valve closer to the cylinder wall to make room for the larger 2.10" intake valve. In a supercharged motor, you shouldn't sacrifice exhaust flow for a little extra on the intake.

That settles it, then. I'd get the 220 Race Ready's and have a local expert head porter perform a valve job and blend it into the bowls and chambers since the AFR valve job sux. They would flow around 290 peak cfm, which is about as good as it gets for a 23 degree, standard port location head, plus have excellent low and mid-lift flow.

Mike

 

TEA specifically told me to leave them like that...

I will ask around if the geometry was changed with the 220s... I belive they are the same price...

i am still unsure the route I will take.. but someone said that if the valve job sucked then I should order the heads w/o valves... but Im not sure how that will affect my plans of sending them to swain tech for ceramic coating

 

Did you see Rich Krause's flow numbers before and after a valve job:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...b&pagenumber=3

14 cfm gain at .200" lift!

You can LOOK at the AFR valve job and see that it's not great. There is a step where the cutter stops. A good head porter will grind this step off, which helps low and mid-lift flow.

Also, are you having the combustion chambers ceramic coated? I would have to recommend against this, especially on a supercharged motor. Ceramic will insulate the combustion chambers and keep them hotter, thus promoting detonation.

I also try to stay away from things that are not commonly used by the reputable engine builders.

Quality valve job and port work? Yes.
Quick ramp rates on the cam? Yes.
Zero deck height? Yes.
Angle mill heads? Yes.
Port matched intake? Yes.

Ceramic coat chambers? No.
Cryogenically treated bottom end parts? No.

You get the idea. . .

Mike

 

What is the recommendation then???

buy the heads ported CNC w/o valves and send them to do the valve job??

 

Are you planning on running more than .580" lift? If so, then you'll need new valve springs and Ti retainers also. That being the case, you might as well get them without parts.

I can't find in their catalog where they're offered WITH porting, but WITHOUT parts, though. . .

Mike

 

No I didnot either... I wasn't contemplating doing a cam change.. but while we are at it... a high lift version of the xe 224/236 might be the great choice in a 116lsa...

Should I get the 220s or simply go with the 210s?

Shouldn't the valve job be done with the head?

 

I'd get the 220's.

90% of the valve job is machine work to the heads. The better head shops will cut the valves also, along with a back-cut on the exhaust valve face.

Mike

 

Ok... Hope it doesn't kill my midrange if I go with the 220s, although I have a 383 which should compensate quite well...