3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

1 bolt will not go in my header!!!!!!!

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Old Jul 23, 2002 | 09:16 PM
  #1  
pcolaIROC's Avatar
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From: pensacola, FL
Angry 1 bolt will not go in my header!!!!!!!

i have both headers on, however, the second bolt from the front on the passengers side, is hitting the header tube and not going in the hole straight! how do i get around this?

Brandon

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red 89 IROC 5.7L A4
-K&N air filter, Flowmaster 3" exhaust, Hedman shorty headers and 3" Y-pipe, MAC offroad pipe, Vortec heads, B&M Transgo shift kit

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Old Jul 23, 2002 | 09:55 PM
  #2  
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loosen all the header bolts about half to 3/4 of the way and pull the header out a bit. slide the problem bolt in and get it started straight. then tighten down all bolts

[This message has been edited by mr diabolical (edited July 23, 2002).]
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 09:58 PM
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pcolaIROC's Avatar
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the header is one piece, and the bolt head hits the header tube. therefore, the bolt does not go through the header hole and manifold hole, it hits the side wall.

Brandon

------------------
red 89 IROC 5.7L A4
-K&N air filter, Flowmaster 3" exhaust, Hedman shorty headers and 3" Y-pipe, MAC offroad pipe, Vortec heads, B&M Transgo shift kit

"THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX"
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 10:04 PM
  #4  
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From: Oak Harbor, Wa
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Return those guys.. I was thinkin same as above post but if the bolt wont go through the flange even with the header backed off the head your screwed.. stick a stamp on em and send em back..
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 10:38 PM
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ahh..u guys give up to easily. just take a dremel and cut the bolt shorter... all u need is a little bit of thread to get it tight.
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:06 PM
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From: Powder Springs, Ga. USA
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Usually the method Mr diabolical states works. Cutting the bolt only reduces thread penetration giving less thread strength and causing stripped threads. You can take a dremel and slightly open up or slot the bolt hole enough to allow the fastener to pass through.

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92BLKL98
'92 Black Z28 Hardtop w/Harwood 2" cowl ind. hood Modded 700R4, MSD
Ignition, March Underdrives, TPIS Fastpak, Ram air w/gutted filter box, SLP Prom, Flowmaster, & free mods, removed cats, Amsoil synthetic lubes, CE SFC's, Edelbrock STB,Spohn TA,Roadtech LCA's and Panhard Rod, Energy Susp., PST polygraphite bushings, KYB Shocks.
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:40 PM
  #7  
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Are you using 7/16 or 3/8 header bolts? If you have 7/16 that might be your problem. If you can't any bolts in dent the header tube slightly.
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:42 PM
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I'm visualizing from the description that the bolt head it actually hitting the tube.. only way around that is possibly heating the header where it contacts it and tappin it in a bit.. I hate doing that though cause sometimes it warps the flange and then your really screwed.. if its just a whole diameter thing.. that is no big deal..
Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:43 PM
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From: P'COLA, FL
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brandon....let the header "float away from the head....start the bolt with the header not touching the head....ive put those on 2 times on my car...should bolt right up

------------------
88 z28 385ci stroker....monster tire shredder
Old Jul 24, 2002 | 05:53 AM
  #10  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 1SLOSBC:
brandon....let the header "float away from the head....start the bolt with the header not touching the head....ive put those on 2 times on my car...should bolt right up

</font>
thats what i posted earlier, the bolt has got to be able to slip through the hole with the header pulled off the head.
Old Jul 24, 2002 | 10:01 PM
  #11  
pcolaIROC's Avatar
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alright, the bolt has gone through the header but will not go flush into the head, too much of an angle-this is my problem and it is a 7/16 bolt. i will try a 3/8 and a 5/16 bolt to see if it will slide in thru both holes straight enough to tighten.
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