Computer Diagnostics and Tuning Technical discussion on diagnostics and programming of the F-body computers

Logging wideband O2 with stock PCM and Datamaster – WRITEUP

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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #46  
kgkern01's Avatar
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Has anyone done this successfully with an LM1 yet? I have tried the gain .0392, offset 10 and it didn't match the display AFR.
Old Jul 13, 2008 | 05:28 PM
  #47  
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what i have just done is set the lc1 to output 1.0v at 8.0 afr and 2.5v at 22.1 afr. this way you dont have to use the custom data stuff. all you have to do is move the decimal point over one place. also doing this logs the afr on the bottom graph.
Old Jul 24, 2008 | 11:18 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by HungryT/A
Use your favorite dyno tuning spreadsheets to determine new values for the PE tables.
Does anyone have any of these spreadsheets that they can share?
Old Jul 24, 2008 | 02:45 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by cause4panic
Does anyone have any of these spreadsheets that they can share?
http://www.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutorial/DynoTune.zip
Old Sep 27, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by reamo04
I use the DB guage, so it ties up the brown analog wire.

Can i use the yellow one to tap into the AC sensor instead of the brown?

Reamo04, Did you ever find and answer to this question? I am also in that boat.
I think we have to reprogram the yellow wire for a 0v-5v reading.
Old Sep 27, 2008 | 02:21 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by rtracy
Reamo04, Did you ever find and answer to this question? I am also in that boat.
I think we have to reprogram the yellow wire for a 0v-5v reading.
I put the brown to my guage and the a/c... i wonder if that has anything to dowith my guage reading wrong?
Old Sep 28, 2008 | 07:56 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by BLUESMOKE
I put the brown to my guage and the a/c... i wonder if that has anything to dowith my guage reading wrong?
It could be. The LC-1 I have has two anolog outputs. The yellow wire is one and the brown wire is the other. These two outputs are set up differently from the factory.
You proly already know that because you spliced from the brown wire to go to two different things.
Anyway I got a CD with my LC-1 that had software on it to program the anologs to whatever you want. You launch the LM Programmer to do this. Since my guage and my AC Switch both take a 0V to 5V anolog output I reprogramed the yellow to that. Worked great!
Old Sep 28, 2008 | 08:02 AM
  #53  
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I would also like to thank Victor for this awsume write up. I wouldn't have had a clue without it. My computer knowledge doesn't go far beyond the key's.LOL
Old Sep 28, 2008 | 09:31 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by rtracy
It could be. The LC-1 I have has two anolog outputs. The yellow wire is one and the brown wire is the other. These two outputs are set up differently from the factory.
You proly already know that because you spliced from the brown wire to go to two different things.
Anyway I got a CD with my LC-1 that had software on it to program the anologs to whatever you want. You launch the LM Programmer to do this. Since my guage and my AC Switch both take a 0V to 5V anolog output I reprogramed the yellow to that. Worked great!
I'm not sure i understand... you programmed the wire?
Old Sep 29, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #55  
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you program the lc-1 using the supplied software. you can set it to output a certian voltage at specific afr..

i use a cheapo 2v 2$ panel mount volt meter in my car. i set the one output to output 0.8v at 8afr and 1.9v at 19afr

then my other output i set for 1.0v at 8.0 afr and 2.5v at 22.1 afr and run that into my ac sensor imput. using these values i didnt have to use and custom data stuff in datamaster and you can graph your afr on the bottom with tps and rpm ect..
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:35 AM
  #56  
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Back From The Dead - But GREAT Info here!..

Just a note I am using a AEM 30-4100 WB o2
It is 10AFR at 0.0V
and 19.98AFR at 4.99V


after struggling threw the math I found out the gain is .0392 and the offset is 10

works great! thanks for the info.
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 04:02 PM
  #57  
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ok i found all the wires and it all hooked up right, but my math must be way off. i have an autometer afr gauge it puts out 0-4v . 0v=10.0 4v=16.0 i hate to ask for a give-me here but i tried, if some one could give me the corect values i would be forever in your debt. also does anyone know if its the same byte# for a 1992 corvette. thank for any help with this.
Old Aug 2, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by guitarguy
ok i found all the wires and it all hooked up right, but my math must be way off. i have an autometer afr gauge it puts out 0-4v . 0v=10.0 4v=16.0 i hate to ask for a give-me here but i tried, if some one could give me the corect values i would be forever in your debt. also does anyone know if its the same byte# for a 1992 corvette. thank for any help with this.
I do not know if its the same byte number but I would think it is. Just try it:

When 0 Volts = 10.0AFR and 4 Volts = 16.0AFR then
Your linear output for that WideBand is AFR=1.5V+10

AFR=(1.5*0.0196)*N + 10 Wich Equals AFR=0.0294*N + 10

So your gain is: .0294
And You Offset Is: 10

Let me know how that works

Last edited by ENRKyle20; Aug 3, 2010 at 11:45 PM.
Old Aug 3, 2010 | 11:26 PM
  #59  
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Thumbs up

thank you. i put thoughs values in and i had to fish around for the byte # it is 23 for a 92 corvette lt1 m6. your math was spot on and this is going to make life easier. thank again
Old Aug 3, 2010 | 11:39 PM
  #60  
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Glad I could help. Took me a while to figure it out for myself but once I got threw with all the head scratching (and some help from the GF) I understand it all. If anyone else needs to know there values just post up your widebands AFR values at 0 and 4 or 5 volts (whatever your gauge puts out) and I will calculate your numbers.

Good to know its byte 23. Glad you go it. good luck :-)



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