LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

ARP crank bolt too short?

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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 01:31 AM
  #1  
LT1 POWR's Avatar
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ARP crank bolt too short?

I've got a standard 7/16-20 ARP balancer bolt #234-2501 and it will not even start to thread into the crankshaft. I measured the depth of the threads in the crank and it's about 3" from the face of the crank to bottoming out the threads. The ARP bolt with the washer leaves only about 2" to insert into the crank. Do they make a little longer bolt? I don't know why mine is different than everyone else's. I guess its cause I'm running a double roller timing chain and the 24x reluctor ring.
Old May 29, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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black heartbeat's Avatar
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

you need to take the washer off to make it fit on the stock harmonic balancer. Plenty of guys run them like that. Save the washer in case you every want to use an ATI damper, otherwise you don't need it.
Old May 29, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

It didn't even begin to thread without the washer.
Old May 30, 2011 | 03:52 AM
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

Are you sure the threads in the crank aren't messed up?
Old May 30, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

Are you sure the hub is fully seated?
Old May 30, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

Sounds like your hub isn't completely seated - that is the proper part number bolt you should be using.
Old May 30, 2011 | 09:34 AM
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

And DO NOT use that bolt to seat the hub. Get some Grade 8 threaded rod.
Old May 30, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Re: ARP crank bolt too short?

Yes, its the right dampner and the threads were not messed up. I also used some threaded rod to install the hub. Its fully seated against the 24X reluctor ring and timing sprocket. I think it might have been the crankshaft that was used or a combination of the parts used. Everything is together now and the motor is under the car waiting to go in.
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