keithystealmaro

I am about to buy this 1999 z28 with 82k on her they asking price is 12,959 but i am going to try and get her for 11.5, KBB says shes worth 11.5 so do u think they will go down that low? and is it worth it? most importantly wut kind of things should i look for to be wrong with it? thanx!

LT1-Z

Personally i'd try to get 10,000 for it but i'm a penny pincher. Be sure to test the driving and make sure absolutely nothing is wrong with it, you'll pay for it later. Rust obviously. Frame damage, and i think those would be the major things. Rear ended? if so it's a bit of money to fix it (if it's anything like mine). Other then that, that should be it. And if it's from a dealer and you want to make them think you know what you're talking about, say you already have a camaro, and nothing else, just that you want another one. (did that once and the dealer stopped talking and let me look at the damn car)

keithystealmaro

thanxs and how do i find out if there is frame damage?

TUNDRKYS

look in the door jambs.............the paint should be just as smooth as the outside of the car, look in the front edge of the jamb, not the rear. check the dash, if it's cracked, it's been wrecked. Nothing wrong with that in my book if it drives straight, but it would be a good bargaining tool. Look in the wheel well, and under the car for overspray. check the seams, look at the front of the car, from head on. The seams on both sides should be even from top to bottom, and even on both sides. check the seams on the doors and the hatch, the same way. The jams, the seams..........that can all get messed up by some shade tree mechanic, and they'll probably tell you that. But if you were trying to trade the car in to them, they won't believe anything other than a wrecked car, and you should think the same way.

In 2000, I got my '96 Z28 for $11,000 out the door. It had 87K on the O. Leather, Z-rated tires, T-Tops, everything.............
I'd be thinking more like $11000 out the door for the car you are looking at.

keithystealmaro

.. that reminds me that the front right quarter panel was a little out of place what could this be due to? also do u think if i mention that they will go down on the price? I also just found out that it would cost $1800 for 6 months of insurance for me!

TUNDRKYS

Walk away from he car........or your insurance agent, no car is worth that. The right front quarter panel?? do you mean fender?? The only reason I can imagine the fender being off the car, is to repair a ding or dent or something. I look the car over. The jambs are a dead giveaway, also on the inside of the hood. Unless they went to a quality place, you'll have over spray on the inside edges of the hood, in the inside edge of the fenders, under the roll pans, in the wheel wells etc.... They'll sand, wet sand and polish the outside of the car, but not these areas, especially for an insurance job.

Also look at the radiator support, make sure it's straight, and has all the stickers. that funny semi-carpetted cardboard in the rear "trunk area", make sure that is fitted, no gaps or any wrinkles.

If you think the car has been wrecked, drive it and see if you can tell if there is a pull one way or the other. Tell them to fix any steering problem before you make a deal. Or ask them if you can take it to a body shop, and ask the shop to look at the frame for you. If the shop tells you it's been in a bad wreck, and the steering can't be fixed, or the doors will never adjust properly, then you shouldn't want the car. walk away, there are better deals out there.
If it drives straight, and you only see a few of the things I mentioned, then it may have been touch up work. But you make your salesman believe you know it's been in a wreck. All the little signs I've told you are the same signs they look for when appraising a car. If it has these signs, they think it's been in a wreck. They know it's been in a wreck, and they hope you don't notice. But if you do, then they'll think everybody will notice it, and will be more than likely to back off on the asking price, if you call them on it.
The places I've worked at in Souteast Texas will generally ask $5000-$7000 more than what they've got put into a car. If they are asking $13K, then they are only in it for 7, maybe 8. If it's a good looking car, and a major car lot, they may wait 6-8 weeks before they "deal" If it's a little local lot, then he'll probably sit on it till next spring.

Don't keep going back and asking about the car. Go ahead, and take another look, and another drive, but don't mention that you want it, unless he puts money on the table. Don't ask for the price, or anything like that, unless he starts talking numbers. if he's like I can cut you a good deal, just say uh-huh, and go about your business, don't even acknowledge what he just said. take note of the stearing, don't make excuses, is it pulling or not. is it getting hot, is there a wiered vibration over 40mph?? 50mph?? 60?? last thing you say to the salesman, is would you fix this/that.........or can I take it to my body shop?? depending on the situation.
If you can't find anything wrong with the car, then try to feel him out. Tell him you take it today, for $8800, and don't move. It's game face time. It's not about how much you can afford, it's not about the note, it's not about interest rate. You can find a similar car with for $8400, but it's yellow, and you don't like yellow, but for $400, you can get to like yellow. You can get it from your friends mom, and you know she didn't even drive it fast, etc.... Do not move off $8400, till he moves off $13000. Then move very small. If you move $1000 at a time, they'll think they still have work to do. Start moving like $500 the first time, $250 the second time, and not a thing the third time. He'll give you his best price. Don't let him switch you to a note, or interest rate. that's your credit unions job, you talk to the salesman about price only.

CDZ28

I think you can get them to come down alot I bought my 200 Z with 33,000 miles on it for $12,900 and they were asking $14,000