Longwell

I have a 1994 v6 manual. So i parked my car tonight and pulled up the ebrake. I heard a loud twang so i'm guessing its snapped since theres no more resistance when i pull up the lever. Is it bad to drive with this broken? I don't have time to go get it fixed right now. will the broken cable like ruin any other parts of my car? I have always put my car in 1st when i park but i always had the ebrake before. I dont have to worry about it rolling away with just 1st gear do i?

How much will this take to fix and how long?

Longwell

So when i went out this morning my ebrake worked again? like im 100% positive it didnt last night cuz i just tried pulling forward alittle with the ebrake up and i could which i definitely can't normally do. soo umm im really confused....

BloodyZ28

I think that might just be the spring at the base of the lever. The same thing happens to me if i pull the handle up too sharply or at an odd angle, and my ebrake still works fine.

Injuneer

There's a pawl that engages the mechanism as you pull the handle up. There was actually a recall on the e-brakes on the early models, to fix this problem. My 94 service record indicated the fix was installed by the dealer, before the vehicle was delivered to me new in 1994. But in the first year or so of ownership, the handle would still occasionally pull up without engaging the brake. Just yook yours 16 years to develop the problem.

Longwell

so will it continue to work or do i have to get it fixed?

Injuneer

There's always the chance it will slip again. I'd see how long it takes until it happens again. You could try spraying some WD40 on the mechanism, to see if it helps.

Longwell

i got it checked out and it turns out my rear wheel cylinders need to be replaced. Brake fluid leaked onto the break pads and theres not enough there for them to redo them so i have to replace them to. I'm not exactly sure what he said but it's something like that. another $470 down the drain

porksoda

Sounds like your getting ripped.

NewbieWar

I've had two issues, on my 94, I broke some connector, and it never had resistance again...(car is 8,000 miles away, so dont bother giving advice on this one)

on my 95, I pulled up about a week ago, loud spring noise... the light went off on the dash, said i didnt have my brake on. but it was clearly up, and i tried to move the car, no luck. For the rest of the time the car was on, the light did not work, but the brake worked fine...

restarted the car, and the light works again... any idea?

it's happened twice in the last week.

I've decided to stop pushing the button while I pull up on the e-brake(I dont like listening to the click-click-click sound) and hasnt happened since, anyone have a guess to what happened?

c5formula

that is WAY to much, go to autozone or wherever and buy the parts an do it yourself. that will save you well over half of what that guy is asking for.

Injuneer

Who's your mechanic..... Mr. Greedwrench of Ben Dover?

Leaking wheel cylinders would not cause the E-brake to "twang".

Longwell

i know he said he couldn't find anything wrong with the ebrake so im confused about that. I trust this guy my family's been using him for years. But supposedly like brake fluid leaked onto the break pads and there wasn't enough left on them for them to redo them at all so they had to replace them to. I'm not technical so i'm just trying to remember what he said. My break light was always on before and now its not so i guess he fixed something

Longwell

so the receipt is for $477.23, 246.25 or parts and 203.96 for labor.

Part Description:
Rear Brake Shoes: 37.35
Rear Brake Drums x2: 117.08
Rear Wheel Cylinders x2: 38.96
Rear Brake Hardware: 17.98
Shop Supplies: 34.88

Labor Description:
Wheel Cylinder - Remove and Replace [Includes: Bleed system and replace shoes if necessary (both)]: 179.08
Additional Time - with ABS add: 19.90
Hazardous Materials: 4.98

So what do you think? My familys been using this Sunoco for years and they've always been good to us, they even let me pay it off over time instead of up front.