spacecataz

Hey guys, I (like the other thread in here) have a parasitic loss that drains my battery in about 1.5 days and other random body-related electrical gremlins. I've of course, narrowed it down to the body control module.

I checked the circuit board (my mother works for DENSO and checks PCB's all day) and there are bad solder joints all over it, not just near the main relay.

Could someone tell me everything the module is tied to? I know VATS, alarm, and interior illumination.. but what else? I'd like to see if it's the bad joints or just one aspect/circuit of the module itself that's bad.

Injuneer

Couple suggestions:

1 - Add the year of the vehicle. Then I'll move it to the correct forum.

2 - Post in the correct forum... there are two warnings "stickied" at the top of the "Advanced Tech" forum that advise that it's generally not the best place to post, unless you want to get into theoretical issues of engine design, and other advanced topics.

On the random chance that it's a 96 or a 97, here's the schematic:

http://shbox.com/1/bcm_1996.jpg

GaryDoug

Visually check for swollen/bulging "can-shaped" capacitors on the circuit board and replace any that look bad. Partly shorted ones can drain power quickly.

spacecataz

Sorry injuneer, its a 1999, and I should have known better. I can get advanced timing and kinetic properties but id rather fix this issue first.

I spent the day with a multimeter, and average draw was .735 to 1.08. I believe its BCM/Door circuits, generally.

With the drivers side door lock/window switch removed, door closed, it drops down to .03/.04. I've had intermittent problems with it, so I pulled it on a hunch.

With the black plug from the BCM removed, draw is 0.01 and goes down to 0.00 when the main blue plug is removed.

(that's how I narrowed it down at first, the bcm unplugged was the only time car wasn't discharging and the alarm was going nuts even w/out the shock sensor plugged in and disarmed/mode 0)

Rear view mirror is unplugged, noted one bulb was blown where it was good before I stored the car for the winter.

I should also note that all day today and for a while everytime I disconnected and reconnected the battery the doors would lock, and since removing the switch on the drivers side door, they don't.

Should I try and remove w/e fuse feeds power to the interior lights next?

None of the caps looked swollen, or were leaking, but the solder was shoddy going to a few of them. It just has that non flux look of a proper blob.

GaryDoug

The switches should have no effect on that until they are operated. There is normally no contact between any of the three terminals of those switches when off. Perhaps the driver side switch is making contact when in the middle (off) position.

.04 amps would be a normal load. With an average 60 amp-hour battery, that would take 1500 hours to drain.

spacecataz

Could be.. or 2 leads on the harness are damaged and shorting together? Sometimes the lock button didn't work, or only one side would. Same with the window switch. It was annoying but until all the other problems I wasn't bothered enough to fix it.

All day today and for the last few months they would either lock when I got out of the vehicle after driving it, or when I reconnected the battery. Every time today one of the probes slipped, or I removed one and reconnected the link, the solenoids would cycle and lock. A short in the door switch may also explain why the alarm was having fits. If the locked state was never truly "set", perhaps the voltage that indicates that to the bcm was so intermittent that it kept arming the system over and over.

Ive read here that .30 is normal load, but I've also heard many a mechanic say anything over .15 is considered extra loss, and several people here in threads I've read got 0.00 when they did their parasitic tests, so I don't know.