michaelzilinski

Hey guys need some help please, so i just bought my z about a month ago n the check engine light is on took it to autozone to see what a scan would say it said crank position sensor, egr valve, and purge canister valve, so i got them all. When i went to changr the canister valve it had little charcol stuff coming out of it. About 2oz's, now it looks like i have two purge valves, n ive looked at shoeboxes diagrams, n i dont see it anywhere
Its b4 the purge valve that autozone gave me and is round wit a 2 wire hookup i cant find it on autozone.com it only comes up with one that is round but no wire hook ups. Im trying to post a pic but not sure how. Any ideas? How did i post a pic?

Injuneer

What were the exact numerical codes? You appear to be describing the vacuum switch that verifies the operation of the EVAP system, when the purge valve opens. That switch will provide the info the PCM needs to set:

P0441 - purge valve stuck closed of plugged when it is supposed to be open.

P1441 - vacuum in the EVAP purge system when the purge valve is supposed to be closed.

If the problem was with the EVAP purge valve, you would have P0443 - electrical circuit fault for purge valve.

Shoebox has the diagram of the system, showing the location of the purge valve (#7) and the vacuum switch (#11):

http://shbox.com/1/1996_evap.jpg

michaelzilinski

Hey thanks for the quick response, i couldnt find that diagram of shoeboxes, so that really helps, is the charcole coming from my canister from the back of the car? Im guessing its not supposed to be up in the purge valves and vacuum switches..?

Injuneer

Correct. With age, and possible overfilling of the tank flooding the canister with gas, the carbon breaks down and get entrained in the air/vapor flowing through the canister to the purge valve (= solenoid).

To clarify, there is one purge valve (solenoid) and one switch.

You may not have a faulty switch or a faulty solenoid. Try cleaning out the solenoid (although appears you already bought a new one), the switch and the lines with compressed air. You can apply 12V to one side of the solenoid, and a ground to the other, and it will open up (disconnect harness connector first) to allow cleaning.

When reassemblying the lines, be sure to follow the connections shown in the diagram - top line at the solenoid goes to the throttle body, lower line on the solenoid goes to the switch.

michaelzilinski

Awesome thanks again for all the info. U saved the day.

michaelzilinski

Ok so I just went to AutoZone n got a scan, it came up with codes
PO335
PO336
PO400
PO430
PO441

Injuneer

P0335 - Crank position sensor - low duty cycle
P0336 - Crank position sensor - Signal out of acceptable range

These are tough codes to sort out. Causes can include:
-poor connections at sensor
-excessive timing chain wear
-bad data from cam position sensor in Optispark
-timing cover damage
-sensor contacting reluctor wheel
-reluctor wheel rubbing on timing cover
-wild camshaft

= = = = = = = =
P0400 - EGR system - low flow indicated by low change in MAP when EGR valve is cycled

Is your EGR system still installed? If so, check the vacuum lines from the intake manifold to the EGR vacuum sloenoid, then to the EGR valve. If good, with engine idling, puch the EGR valve diaphragm to open it (or appl a vacuum directly to the valve). Engine should stumble if valve opens and EGR flows. If not, check EGR valve pintle for carbon, check EGR valve to make sure it operates with vacuum, check passage in manifold for plug.

This code can also set if you have a very low backpressure exhaust.

= = = = = = = =
P0430 - Bank 2 cat converter - low oxygen storage

Do you have cats? Are the after-cat O2 sensors hooked up? If the answer to both questions is "yes", swap the 2 after-cat sensors side to side, and see if the problem stays on Bank 2 (passenger side) = faulty cat or wiring problem, or if the code follows the sensor to Bank 1 = faulty sensor.

= = = = = = = =
P0441 - EVAP vacuum switch does not indicate vacuum present when purge valve is opened

Did cleaning the purge solenoid/valve solve the problem? If not, did you check the vacuum lines to insure they are installed correctly and not cracked?

michaelzilinski

Hey thanks for responding, i replaced the crank position sensor, no change.. So im going to have to look into that so more, i replaced the egr valve it was pretty black n gummed up ill try that n c if it stumbles later today, i dont think i have cats, i have stock manifolds witch have so big round thing on the driver side and a small round thing on the pass side then it goes to a y pipe into one 3 inch pipe all the way back to my kook muffler. N i dont c any o2 sensors but the ones that are on my manifolds, i also wannter to get someones opinion on when i got the car the iac was unplugged so i plugged it in n it started idling up n down so i unplugged it and it was idling at 3k so i plugged it back in till i bought a new , now it ifles ok but some times when i sit at lights it surges n i have yo pit it in N rev it up to e
3k n it will idle fine again i did the rest that shoebox said to but i dont know any ideas, thanks for all ur info.

Injuneer

The driver's side cat bolts directly to the triangular flange on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. The passenger side cat is partway down that branch of the Y pipe..... roughly where you described them. The O2 sensors would be right below the cats. If you have no sensors you would have codes for both sides, not just one side. Or, someone gutted the cats and installed "O2 sims" to eliminate the codes, and one "sim" has fallen out or failed.