replacing slave cylinder
#2
Re: replacing slave cylinder
Have you checked your clutch fluid level?
Slave cylinder is bolted to the driver's side of the bellhousing and is held on with 2 nuts. Unbolt it and pull it out of the housing. Attached to the end of it is a rubber boot and a short rod. Have a friend partially depress the clutch pedal while you hold the slave cylinder to check for motion. DO NOT press all the way down on the clutch pedal as over extension of the slave cylinder can damage it. Also look inside the bell housing and inspect your clutch fork.
Slave cylinder is bolted to the driver's side of the bellhousing and is held on with 2 nuts. Unbolt it and pull it out of the housing. Attached to the end of it is a rubber boot and a short rod. Have a friend partially depress the clutch pedal while you hold the slave cylinder to check for motion. DO NOT press all the way down on the clutch pedal as over extension of the slave cylinder can damage it. Also look inside the bell housing and inspect your clutch fork.
#3
Re: replacing slave cylinder
Yes it ws bleed w/ a mighty vac, I need to replace the slave how do you do it? I know how to unbolt it from the housing but how do you disconnect it from the steel hose?
#4
Re: replacing slave cylinder
when mine went i had to reaplace the whole setup.. bran new costs a bit.. suggestion.. maybe get one from the scrap yard. unless u can get access to a crimper that will compress the hydrolic line back in. ive heard of a "repair kit" most likly there is a small air hole someone in the line.. likely to be under the clutch petal.. the seals go so just replace the whole setup and call it a day
#5
Re: replacing slave cylinder
My local parts store sold just the slave cylinder. The steel braided line connects with a roll pin. You push out the old roll pin (I used a small diameter punch). The new slave came with a replacement roll pin. There were also directions in the box.
#6
You guys are priceless...
This is the reply I was looking for on all the other boards. Here's the question I'd posed....
"I was able to start my '96 383 Solid Roller last night. Elation turned to dismay after I tried to depress the clutch, felt resistance, pressed harder, then heard a snap. I got under the car to find that one ear of the two slave cylinder attachment points had snapped off. I stopped by Advance Auto Parts on the way home and they carry just the slave for around $4x.xx. That beats the socks off the full assembly I thought I "had" to buy from GM ($175?) last time. Anyway, after examining the slave cylinder that's still attached to the line in the car. it appears the line is captured by a very tiny pin. Have any of you replaced just the slave cylinder on a 93-97 T56 equipped Fbody car? THanks in advance...
btw-I did search before posting this. Most posts are about replacing the 98 - 02 LS1 version slave cylinders.
David K. Wilson"
THanks!!!!!!
"I was able to start my '96 383 Solid Roller last night. Elation turned to dismay after I tried to depress the clutch, felt resistance, pressed harder, then heard a snap. I got under the car to find that one ear of the two slave cylinder attachment points had snapped off. I stopped by Advance Auto Parts on the way home and they carry just the slave for around $4x.xx. That beats the socks off the full assembly I thought I "had" to buy from GM ($175?) last time. Anyway, after examining the slave cylinder that's still attached to the line in the car. it appears the line is captured by a very tiny pin. Have any of you replaced just the slave cylinder on a 93-97 T56 equipped Fbody car? THanks in advance...
btw-I did search before posting this. Most posts are about replacing the 98 - 02 LS1 version slave cylinders.
David K. Wilson"
THanks!!!!!!
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