Head studs or bolts?

I was wondering how many of you +600hp turbo guys are running arp head bolts instead of studs. How much power/ boost can you make using bolts instead of studs? I would like to avoid the leaking stud issues if I can.

I was wondering how many of you +600hp turbo guys are running arp head bolts instead of studs. How much power/ boost can you make using bolts instead of studs? I would like to avoid the leaking stud issues if I can.

What is the leaking stud issue you are referring to? You put the same sealant on a stud that you would the bolt, and they both will seal fine. The stud is the way to go for clamping force (without stressing the head to threaded portion like a bolt).

We do have 5 bolts per cyl where the ls1 guys only have 4... that helps.

I run ARP BOLTS and was in the power range you are talking - I have run 5-7psi more than that since being on the dyno. No signs of leaking.

Also I run regular old felpro head gaskets.

If it matters I am in the upper 8:1 compression range too though.

jsetzer How much boost are you running now?

Logs this morning show 19ish psi - Seen 23 a time or two, but that takes some really cold air and the wastegate never opening. Little 70 can't do that on a hot day.

Remember 19pounds on a t70 is vastly different than 19 on a 76+

Remember 19pounds on a t70 is vastly different than 19 on a 76+

Mabey some of the guys with 76 or larger would be kind enough to tell if they run bolts or studs.

I ordered my PT88 a couple days ago and I'm going with arp head studs.

Go with head studs.

I have studs, pain in the ass to get the heads off in the car, have to pull the studs out, but they didn't leak.

I have studs, pain in the ass to get the heads off in the car, have to pull the studs out, but they didn't leak.

What did you use as thread sealant?

arp or gm ptfe based sealant and small bars leak for good measure.

What did you use as thread sealant?

Yea just the regular permatex white thread sealant, I let them "dry" for 24 hours before I put coolant in. Coolant will wash the sealant off a little.

Bolts will work fine and make it easier to remove the heads in-car, which is a big advantage to me.

Rich

figured id bring back a somewhat old post instead of starting another. i plan on staying in the 500ish WHP area, 10-12psi at most (down the road), prolly gonna stay more in the 7-9psi range. would i be better off going with the bolts or the studs?

bolts

I've used ARP bolts with success everytime. I've used studs, installed by a pro shop and they leaked. I took it back, they redid it all and it leaked still. I told them to take the GD things out and put in bolts, the never leaked again. Do a search on 'studs' and 'leaks' and you'll see there's a lot of guys that had leaking issues. You'll always find guys that 'never had a problem with mine!' but I've never, ever had a problem with bolts. I always thought studs were 'really' for guys that have to tear their engines down frequently, as in, between rounds at racing events where you can more quickly rip off and reinstall heads since the studs align the heads perfect as opposed to looking for the little dowels.