shorty vs long tubes

what kind of power will i get outta each?

I dont know about power a whole lots, but I heard LT's deliver more power/troque throughout the entire RPM range. Due to the longer primarys you get mroe exhaust scavaging (which is basically where one exaust impulse, since they fire in odd orders, will suck the next one out) but LT's sound are orgasmic above 2k rpms. They make a stock LT1 sound like it has a cam if you have a cutout and cold start it.

I just did LT's + ORY about 3 weeks ago and would never go back. Don't do all that work just to put shortys in...since they really arn't easier to install at all plus the price diff is negligable. I put both my LT's in from the top of the car...never even had to jack it up.

alright i think im gonna go with the LT's. I was looking at pacesetters do they make good headers

I would go LT, I have mac mids but I got them for 200 used. So it was hard to pass up. But I even now wish i had gone with a LT header.

alright i think im gonna go with the LT's. I was looking at pacesetters do they make good headers

Long tubes are definitely the way to go if you want more power. Pacesetters aren't horrible if you're on a budget, but if you really want maximum performance Kooks makes pretty much the best stuff out there. They fit great, look great, and won't give you any trouble.

We have a good lineup of Kooks brand stuff for you car here if you'd like to take a look:

http://marylandspeed.com/lt1-fbody-19931997-headers-and-ypipes-c-122_136.html

If you have any questions you'd like to ask or anything don't hesitate to ask us!

according to Horsepower TV they dynoed a SBC with LTs and then with mids...hp numbers were identical but they lost a little low end torque with the mids.

Well first to weigh in on the OP's question... everyone here will tell you long tubes, and either pacesetter (best price) or kooks (best stainless header but pricey) depending on your bankroll. I've been saving for kooks for a while now because I want to do it once and have them forever with no rust.

Now for the thread-jack:

I just did LT's + ORY about 3 weeks ago and would never go back. Don't do all that work just to put shortys in...since they really arn't easier to install at all plus the price diff is negligable. I put both my LT's in from the top of the car...never even had to jack it up.

In from the top for both sides? What all did you have to take off to get them both in from the top? I've been putting off doing it myself because I'm not sure how to get the car high enough up in the air, and jacking up the engine and all that. Do you have any pics?

hes got a special camaro thats got more room then ours :lol:.. cause getting spark plugs from up top isnt the easiest thing on theses

Well first to weigh in on the OP's question... everyone here will tell you long tubes, and either pacesetter (best price) or kooks (best stainless header but pricey) depending on your bankroll. I've been saving for kooks for a while now because I want to do it once and have them forever with no rust.

Now for the thread-jack:



In from the top for both sides? What all did you have to take off to get them both in from the top? I've been putting off doing it myself because I'm not sure how to get the car high enough up in the air, and jacking up the engine and all that. Do you have any pics?

Well I was doing headgaskets at the same time, so I already have the old exhaust manifolds/ypipe off, valve covers, rollerrockers, starter, disconnected steering arm. The heads were bolted up but had basically nothing on them but valve springs. The passengers side was a little hard to get in because of the heatercore hitting one of the primarys, I ended up hitting the top of the headers w/ a piece of wood and hammer a few times until it dropped in. since I was hitting it w/ a hammer the paint was shipping away at certain spots (I had uncoated headers so I didnt care anyways), but eventually it dropped right in. Then to bolt it up I put some blocks of wood under the car to support the header flange.

On the drivers side I pretty much just had to remove the steering arm and it basically fell right in from the top..I cant really remember but some hammer usage may have been done.

All in all everything went in just fine from the top because I didnt care about the paint on the headers...it all burns off anyways. So if you have coated headers and dont want them scratched the **** up I suggest you may have to do the passengers side from the bottom...I just didnt want to jack my car up that high.

I also did not need to jack the motor up or anything during the process.

hes got a special camaro thats got more room then ours :lol:.. cause getting spark plugs from up top isnt the easiest thing on theses

It's very possible to put them in from the top, you just have to use your brain and think about how you need to position the header/twist it to avoid certain things. Plus I used a hammer to clear the heatercore since it was about 1 cm too wide in that area and it was real hard to push the heater core in and the header down at the same time. I started by basically putting the collector in at a very steep angle. I probably got them both bolted up in 3 hours or so.

I believe I got all my spark plugs in from the top except the one closest to the firewall on each side of the engine.

I would go LT, I have mac mids but I got them for 200 used. So it was hard to pass up. But I even now wish i had gone with a LT header.I traded a BBK 52 tb(which was a poor mod) for my Mac mids and am amazed how much plug access improved,great fit,power increased,and the fact the air pump being eliminated also helped.This deal as you said was just too good to pass on.