Need some good advice and to introduce myself

Hey all,
Just registered on here, new to the site but not to cars. I own a little used car lot and have owned every car you can think of....any way right now I have a 00 Corvette M6,and my daily driver is a 98 Z automatic bone stock other than a 160 stat..
i've been looking throgh the msg board and am not familiar with all the abrveations and such so please answer me in dumb*** words!! any how my buddy has a 03 cobra and i'm looking to gain some HP, my car has brand new tires and just had a tune up..last year at the track I ran a 13.8 and my buddy runs high 12's. Just wondering without getting into cams and heads, what can I do to really wake this car up? What's the MAF? Is that just the air intake? any help would be great thanks guys and nice meeting everyone, oh and how can i tell what gears I have stock?

is it a M6 or auto trans?

You will get alot of opinions but first things you need to do is help it breathe....
air lid, headers, exaust....

Now get the power to the ground....gears converter tires etc.

Then cams,heads and tuning comes....

12. are easy...

a MAF is a mass airflow sensor.....it calibrates you fuels needs in the computer.

Kraest can give you some tips, he knows a little about LS1's......a little.

His post said his 'vette was an M6 and the Camaro an auto

Ok,
well the K&N air intake system.....is that take the place of the mass airflow or is that different, sorry man i'm illiterate when it comes to this ..and what exactly does the stall convertor do?

so, a K&N air system...headers and mufflers, and a computer chip like hypertech etc.. should I do that or should I just get a wet 100 shot? And i'm comfused about the air intake..is the K&N system include that mass airflow also or is that separate or ??

Kraest can give you some tips, he knows a little about LS1's......a little.

:lol:

Which car are you trying to modify? Vette or Z?

so, a K&N air system...headers and mufflers, and a computer chip like hypertech etc.. should I do that or should I just get a wet 100 shot? And i'm comfused about the air intake..is the K&N system include that mass airflow also or is that separate or ??

Forget about the MAF. No reason to modify it or buy another one.

And forget about the Hypertech. It's garbage. If you want a handheld, get a Diablosport.

I'd do bolt-ons like a K&N cold air kit, catback, longtube headers, gears, torque converter (if you're modifying the auto), and a tune... then a 100 shot.

Forget about the MAF. No reason to modify it or buy another one.

And forget about the Hypertech. It's garbage. If you want a handheld, get a Diablosport.

I'd do bolt-ons like a K&N cold air kit, catback, longtube headers, gears, torque converter (if you're modifying the auto), and a tune... then a 100 shot.


I'm modifying the camaro, the corvette gets drove by the woman too :( I can't even smoke my guanga in it!! Hows that? I pay
30k for a car I should be able to sh** on the hood if i want. anyway, are gears hard to install? How much am I looking at buyin and installing gears and the converter? and what does the convertor do?

And you say after my mods get a tune? Is that the diablosport your talking about? Sorry , my brother has a 300zxtt and i could ask him but he's an ass , and only knows tuner cars which i'm not a big fan of.

And you say after my mods get a tune? Is that the diablosport your talking about? Sorry , my brother has a 300zxtt and i could ask him but he's an ass , and only knows tuner cars which i'm not a big fan of.


haha. i have one of those.. I think what kraest was talking about was a dyno tune, just so you can have the most effective tune for the effort. the handheld tuners would probably be decent for a bolt-on car, and dyno tunes are common for bigger builds like heads and cams, or they maybe even do them just for nitrous, i dont know. If you've got the extra money for a professional dyno tune you might as well do that, its a great result plus you know what numbers your car puts out

30k for a car

anyway, are gears hard to install? How much am I looking at buyin and installing gears and the converter? and what does the convertor do?

You paid about 10k too high if you paid 30k for a 2000 Corvette. :(

Anyway, you'll need them done professionally if you've never done them before. Figure around $500 labor is the going rate.

www.howstuffworks.com is a place you can go for common questions about automobiles or anything in general.

You paid about 10k too high if you paid 30k for a 2000 Corvette. :(

Anyway, you'll need them done professionally if you've never done them before. Figure around $500 labor is the going rate.

www.howstuffworks.com is a place you can go for common questions about automobiles or anything in general.


You may know mechanics, but i own a carlot I know what cars are worth.....my vette has 7,500 miles, and has a special head and cam setup, it was a dealer demo and was never titled i bought it at a dealer auction because thats what i am a dealer the car is STILL worth 30,000...anyway i'm tryin to get my camaro in the 12's , im sure a tune isn't going to get me there, so I guess nitrous is my best bet

Be warned that the rear end in 4th gen (93-02) F-bodies (Camaros and Firebirds) isn't very strong, and that launching hard on sticky tires can break it. There are a number of things you can do to add a little bit of strength, and there are a number of people who have performed dozens of hard launches without breaking anything. It's a crapshoot, but be forewarned that the minute you mount a sticky tire, all bets are off. It could break at any time, and a stronger rear end that can handle the abuse is going to cost you at least two grand.

As an added bonus, when you buy a rear end, you get to pick your gear ratio. If you wait to get gears until you also get a rear end, you end up saving a couple hundred dollars. To make this decision easier, look at your RPO code sticker and let us know which gears you have. The code GU2 means you have the standard 2.73:1 gears, GU5 means you have the optional 3.23:1.

Having said that, here are the first mods you should do:

1. Airbox lid. $100 gets you 10rwhp.
2. K&N filter is optional; gains over the stock paper filter are 1-2hp at best.
3. Catback exhaust. Do NOT buy a Flowmaster -- it flows worse than stock. Corsa is best if you can afford it ($1100); I recommend Magnaflow if you want something cheaper ($400). Someone will come in here and recommend Borla, but it costs just as much as Corsa and doesn't flow quite as well. To hear what a Corsa exhaust sounds like, go to my FQuick garage (http://www.fquick.com/garages/Chevrolet/Camaro_Z28/2002/4228/).

You could get a tune at this point (a $150 mail-order tune would be fine), but there would only be a few horsepower to be gained with just those modifications. The above should get you down into the low 13's, assuming your tires are reasonably good street tires (see the times, dyno numbers, and mods in my sig).

From there, a pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street drag radials and some practice launching at the drag strip will almost certainly get you into the high 12's.

There are a handful of other things you can do:

1. Subframe connectors: this isn't going to affect your times much, but for $150 it will make the car ride and handle better, transfer power better, and quiet some of those nagging rattling sounds that all F-bodies eventually develop.

2. High-stall torque converter, aka "converter" or just "stall". This is the part that connects the engine's crankshaft to the transmission's input shaft, taking the place of a clutch on a manual trans. Don't skimp here -- you get what you pay for. Doesn't add horsepower, but allows the engine to get into its powerband sooner. You pick the stall RPM -- higher stall RPM gets you into the power band sooner, at the expense of streetability, and to some extent fuel economy. Most around here agree that Vigilante converters are the best.

3. Underdrive pulleys are a popular bolt-on modification, worth maybe 5hp. It slows down the accessories (alternator, power steering, water pump) by about 10%.

4. Ram air. Super Sucker Ram Air (SSRA) and Free Ram Air (FRA) are popular. SSRA is an aftermarket product; FRA just involves you cutting a long, skinny, rectangular hole in the front of the air intake, right below the filter element.

5. Long tube headers (worth as much as 25 horsepower) and a 3" Y-pipe. You can spend a lot of money on stainless steel (~$800 from Kooks or QTP), or you can go with cheap stuff (~$300 from Pacesetter). No power difference, but the stainless steel won't rust and will keep engine bay temperatures down (that's a good thing). Make sure you get a tune after this mod to maximize your gains. A mail-order tune will once again be fine.

You may know mechanics, but i own a carlot I know what cars are worth.....my vette has 7,500 miles, and has a special head and cam setup, it was a dealer demo and was never titled i bought it at a dealer auction because thats what i am a dealer the car is STILL worth 30,000...anyway i'm tryin to get my camaro in the 12's , im sure a tune isn't going to get me there, so I guess nitrous is my best bet

If you're a car dealer, then you should know about Manheim.
Here's a listing.

03/28/08 MANHEIM Regular $30,500 4,369 Above MAGRED 8G 6 Yes
04/08/08 STATESVL Regular $28,750 4,472 Avg GRAY 8G O Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $29,000 8,818 Avg WHITE 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $29,200 10,582 Avg BLACK 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $27,800 10,741 Avg BLACK 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $29,000 12,399 Avg BLUE 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $27,200 13,206 Avg BLACK 8G M Yes
03/14/08 MANHEIM Regular $28,000 15,256 Avg RED 8G 6 Yes
04/03/08 CHICAGO Regular $27,000 16,584 Avg SLVR 8G 6 Yes

BTW.. those are all 2004 cars. Even a 2000 with that mileage will go for $5-10k less easily.

Heads/cam setup from the factory? Utter bull****. You took that hook, line, and sinker.

Anyway, let's not get into that ;)

Bolt-ons + nitrous is your best bet.

All you need in the Z to run mid to low 12s is:

lid
FRA
Yank ss3600 torque converter
a good cat back exhaust
Diablosport tuner to adjust shift points and such.
and sticky tires.

I ran mid 12s all the time with a best of 12.15 when in this mode.

Bolt-ons + nitrous is your best bet.

He only wants to run in the 12's. Why are you recommending nitrous?

He only wants to run in the 12's. Why are you recommending nitrous?

Because he doesn't want to do internal mods.

Once the car feels slow from bolt-ons after a month or so, he'll need a new fix ;)

Because he doesn't want to do internal mods.

Once the car feels slow from bolt-ons after a month or so, he'll need a new fix ;)

Fair enough, but since he's new around here, I just wanted to make it clear that he can get into the 12's easily without nitrous.

All you need in the Z to run mid to low 12s is:

lid
FRA
Yank ss3600 torque converter
a good cat back exhaust
Diablosport tuner to adjust shift points and such.
and sticky tires.

I ran mid 12s all the time with a best of 12.15 when in this mode.

:yes: Just a couple of other little things: Headers. Not necessary for 12s, but a very worthwhile starter mod. And if you have the 2.73 gears stock, look into a gear swap to a 3.42 or even 3.73. If you have 3.23 gears, they'll work fine for your goals.

And since Al is suggesting a "FRA", and you don't know what that means, its the Free Ram Air mod.

And since Al is suggesting a "FRA", and you don't know what that means, its the Free Ram Air mod.

I explained FRA in post #13. :)

All you need in the Z to run mid to low 12s is:

lid
FRA
Yank ss3600 torque converter
a good cat back exhaust
Diablosport tuner to adjust shift points and such.
and sticky tires.

I ran mid 12s all the time with a best of 12.15 when in this mode.

what gears were you running with that converter?

what gears were you running with that converter?

Al's running 4.10s, but he has a race car.

I'd suggest 3.73s with the auto for the street if you do any kind of interstate driving.

Al's running 4.10s, but he has a race car.

I'd suggest 3.73s with the auto for the street if you do any kind of interstate driving.

what gears were you running with that converter?

Yeah 4.10s now with a Yank PT4000ish.

Back then I was running 3.23s 'till the posi went south then I stuck in a 3.42 rear from a stick car.

Give me your email and i'll send you pics of my car, you can't knock it till you see it, it's a specail edition corvette pre Z06 only a few made, please don't knock my car it hurts me feelings :(

anyway, how do I tell what gears my Z has? It runs about 2500RPM at 65 70, so i'd say 323's maybe?
anyway I think i'll get the zex nitrous kit and put it on for 600 bucks and have 100hp, hopefully I'll have it on by this weekend and go race that blown cobra

If you're a car dealer, then you should know about Manheim.
Here's a listing.

03/28/08 MANHEIM Regular $30,500 4,369 Above MAGRED 8G 6 Yes
04/08/08 STATESVL Regular $28,750 4,472 Avg GRAY 8G O Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $29,000 8,818 Avg WHITE 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $29,200 10,582 Avg BLACK 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $27,800 10,741 Avg BLACK 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $29,000 12,399 Avg BLUE 8G M Yes
03/17/08 FAAO Regular $27,200 13,206 Avg BLACK 8G M Yes
03/14/08 MANHEIM Regular $28,000 15,256 Avg RED 8G 6 Yes
04/03/08 CHICAGO Regular $27,000 16,584 Avg SLVR 8G 6 Yes

BTW.. those are all 2004 cars. Even a 2000 with that mileage will go for $5-10k less easily.

Heads/cam setup from the factory? Utter bull****. You took that hook, line, and sinker.

Anyway, let's not get into that ;)

Bolt-ons + nitrous is your best bet.

Why is my head/ cam setup bull? Man, you might think i'm carrying this on, but you don't know what car your talking about, you think someone could tell me it was a "special" edition with head/cam and I couldn't tell by the sound/power if it was? Cmon, my 14 year old could tell between a 335 hp car and my car! Seriously this car appraised for 75k dollars. Its a Lingenfelter custom car that I bought hit in the front fender and fixed the fender, so those cars you showed me at the auction don't compare to mine, had to defend myself on that one, no disrespect at all, but I do know my cars!

Give me your email and i'll send you pics of my car, you can't knock it till you see it, it's a specail edition corvette pre Z06 only a few made, please don't knock my car it hurts me feelings :(
I'd like to see them. Click on my username and click "Send email to JakeRobb". It'll give you my email address.

anyway, how do I tell what gears my Z has? It runs about 2500RPM at 65 70, so i'd say 323's maybe?
anyway I think i'll get the zex nitrous kit and put it on for 600 bucks and have 100hp, hopefully I'll have it on by this weekend and go race that blown cobra
I described how to tell a few posts back:

look at your RPO code sticker and let us know which gears you have. The code GU2 means you have the standard 2.73:1 gears, GU5 means you have the optional 3.23:1.

However, 3.23 gears at 2500 rpm in 4th gear of an automatic transmission should have you going 84 mph. This could mean any number of things:

1. You are mistaken about your RPMs at that speed
2. Your tach is not accurate (very likely)
3. Your speedometer is not accurate (not very likely)
4. The previous owner installed an aftermarket gearset.

2500rpm with 4.10:1 gears would be 66mph. It seems pretty likely that option 4 is the case.

a 00 Corvette M6

my vette has 7,500 miles, and has a special head and cam setup, it was a dealer demo and was never titled i bought it at a dealer auction

it's a specail edition corvette pre Z06 only a few made

Seriously this car appraised for 75k dollars. Its a Lingenfelter custom car that I bought hit in the front fender and fixed the fender

Your story changes a little each time. Because of that, it seems like you're making it up. That's why you're getting called out. Why didn't you just say it was a Lingenfelter Corvette in the first place?

Why is my head/ cam setup bull? Man, you might think i'm carrying this on, but you don't know what car your talking about, you think someone could tell me it was a "special" edition with head/cam and I couldn't tell by the sound/power if it was? Cmon, my 14 year old could tell between a 335 hp car and my car! Seriously this car appraised for 75k dollars. Its a Lingenfelter custom car that I bought hit in the front fender and fixed the fender, so those cars you showed me at the auction don't compare to mine, had to defend myself on that one, no disrespect at all, but I do know my cars!

If it was a Lingenfelter car, why didn't you just say that it was from the start?

Give me your email and i'll send you pics of my car, you can't knock it till you see it, it's a specail edition corvette pre Z06 only a few made, please don't knock my car it hurts me feelings :(



A "pre-Z06" is called an FRC (fixed roof coupe or factory race car) and they made them from 99-00 while developing the Z06. The came with the regular LS1. You may know a little about the car business (I know alot, too ;) ), but I'm an expert when it comes to C5 Corvettes. Check my sig.

My email is in my profile button.

Mike

If it was a Lingenfelter car, why didn't you just say that it was from the start?




A "pre-Z06" is called an FRC (fixed roof coupe or factory race car) and they made them from 99-00 while developing the Z06. The came with the regular LS1. You may know a little about the car business (I know alot, too ;) ), but I'm an expert when it comes to C5 Corvettes. Check my sig.

My email is in my profile button.

Mike



Awesome!! Now I can ask you all my questions!!! Haha , well I know my car was appraised at 75k, and I really don't care if that one guy thinks i'm lying!! I've been in the car business for a long time, but it's nice to find someone as knowledgable about these cars as you...I'll send you some pics of my baby as soon as I can! The car was originally hit in the fender and I bought it at a Auction in Indianapolis, and I own a little body shop, so I fixed it for next to nothin, now I got a badass vette, that most people don't know what it even is!! Thats why I usually don't even say, because most people just say like you did , "thats BS, no corvette comes with all that stock" It's not worth the arguement for me,
oh I also have a 69 REAL Z28 original 302 4 speed for sale on ebay right now, just to show you I deal in NICE SH**

Your story changes a little each time. Because of that, it seems like you're making it up. That's why you're getting called out. Why didn't you just say it was a Lingenfelter Corvette in the first place?


nothing changed? Everything you just quoted me on is true! It is an M6 6 speed, it does have 7500 miles, I really could care less weather or not you believe me, as you remember I came asking about my DD, my CAMARO! The reason I didn't say what it is, is because people like you always wanna argue and I don't feel like arguing about it, why should I get ridicule , because I have an extremely rare car, like I told the other guy in the last post , I have a 69Z28 302 4 speed on ebay right now it's about to end but check it out, thats the kind of cars I deal with, but i don't expect anyone to know me here so thats why I don't bring it up, cuz most people don't have the cars I do, or the money to buy them

whenever i feel down i just come and read this thread... This is pretty darn funny... As you were gents.

Awesome!! Now I can ask you all my questions!!! Haha , well I know my car was appraised at 75k, and I really don't care if that one guy thinks i'm lying!! I've been in the car business for a long time, but it's nice to find someone as knowledgable about these cars as you...I'll send you some pics of my baby as soon as I can! The car was originally hit in the fender and I bought it at a Auction in Indianapolis, and I own a little body shop, so I fixed it for next to nothin, now I got a badass vette, that most people don't know what it even is!! Thats why I usually don't even say, because most people just say like you did , "thats BS, no corvette comes with all that stock" It's not worth the arguement for me,
oh I also have a 69 REAL Z28 original 302 4 speed for sale on ebay right now, just to show you I deal in NICE SH**

Remember this is an F Bod forum people know what there talking about... So don't think people wont know what your talking about and calling something what its not... they will just think your lying like I did.

nothing changed? Everything you just quoted me on is true! It is an M6 6 speed, it does have 7500 miles, I really could care less weather or not you believe me, as you remember I came asking about my DD, my CAMARO! The reason I didn't say what it is, is because people like you always wanna argue and I don't feel like arguing about it, why should I get ridicule , because I have an extremely rare car, like I told the other guy in the last post , I have a 69Z28 302 4 speed on ebay right now it's about to end but check it out, thats the kind of cars I deal with, but i don't expect anyone to know me here so thats why I don't bring it up, cuz most people don't have the cars I do, or the money to buy them

If you don't want to argue stop arguing... Also your not impressing anyone. Now if were done with that.... to get your Camaro into the 12s just a few bolt ons will do it quite easily. I would do exactly what was stated previously, gears, converter, headers, Magnaflow etc...

cuz most people don't have the cars I do, or the money to buy them

OK. That kind of attitude along with your other claims and partial information/truths won't get you much advice here, or anywhere else. Secondly, there may be, just may be, a few people here that can afford your cars :lol: Finally, clean up your posts. Too much shorthand and the lack of punctuation should be reserved for 16 y/o girls texting on their phones.

if you have the money, why not put a good set of heads on the car with a small cam to get into the low-mid 12's with those bolt-ons and have a perfectly good daily driver car that is a lot of fun. not bashing your proposed big funds, just suggesting. Are you just really trying to keep the engine internals stock and just update the intake and exhaust systems? I'm confident all your goals could be achieved with a small cam and even budget heads.

OK. That kind of attitude along with your other claims and partial information/truths won't get you much advice here, or anywhere else. Secondly, there may be, just may be, a few people here that can afford your cars :lol: Finally, clean up your posts. Too much shorthand and the lack of punctuation should be reserved for 16 y/o girls texting on their phones.


attitude? you have the wrong idea, I don't have an attitude, wow I can't believe how much hate and disrespect i've received on here, you sound way to mad for the situation, chill out tough guy seriously...man, your the man!! I'll clean up my posts , Yes Sir!:bow:
no need to talk trash on me , this is how I get indroduced? Thanks for your help sir..and i'm sorry you felt the need to be a tough guy for no reason, hope you feel better!

if you have the money, why not put a good set of heads on the car with a small cam to get into the low-mid 12's with those bolt-ons and have a perfectly good daily driver car that is a lot of fun. not bashing your proposed big funds, just suggesting. Are you just really trying to keep the engine internals stock and just update the intake and exhaust systems? I'm confident all your goals could be achieved with a small cam and even budget heads.


Thanks for the input man!! Actually that would be excellent, however I don't know how to do the internal work, and wouldn't know where to take it, or what to buy....you understand? Haha I'm kind of ignorant when it comes to mechanics thats why i'm here!! Anyway, money's not really a problem, its just that this is my daily driver for the time being, and I don't like the "cam lope" of my vette so I was thinking nitrous would be the best idea, also I just put a slp loudmouth exhaust on today, and figured out my car has the 3:23 gears

Remember this is an F Bod forum people know what there talking about... So don't think people wont know what your talking about and calling something what its not... they will just think your lying like I did.



If you don't want to argue stop arguing... Also your not impressing anyone. Now if were done with that.... to get your Camaro into the 12s just a few bolt ons will do it quite easily. I would do exactly what was stated previously, gears, converter, headers, Magnaflow etc...

I don't care weather you belive me or not man, no need for the attitude at all ..

figured out my car has the 3:23 gears

Just curious... how did you figure that out?

Thanks for the input man!! Actually that would be excellent, however I don't know how to do the internal work, and wouldn't know where to take it, or what to buy....you understand? Haha I'm kind of ignorant when it comes to mechanics thats why i'm here!! Anyway, money's not really a problem, its just that this is my daily driver for the time being, and I don't like the "cam lope" of my vette so I was thinking nitrous would be the best idea, also I just put a slp loudmouth exhaust on today, and figured out my car has the 3:23 gears

Well I'm not an expert on all this stuff either, but there are several things you can do to vary the power, sound and streetability of an aftermarket camshaft. Everyone else can fill you if they don't hate you already lol. If the sound is what bothers you, then I would still recommend getting a small cam in the low to mid 22X/22X, something like the 224R from TSP...i think its TSP..(your stock Camaro has a 202/210 camshaft) To further help your issue with the noise, you can increase the LSA (Lobe Separation Angle) People like to get between 112 and 114 LSA, but for you, one in the 116-118 LSA range (if thats possible with a cam that you choose) would help dissipate the lopey sound.

How many miles are on your Z28? I don't really know much about nitrous but I've never really liked the idea of it (although I've considered it too). From what I've heard, it basically leans the engine out for a short amount of time to boost power shortly (leaning an engine obviously isn't good for long periods of time, you probably know that already). If you've got 100k miles on it already, I probably wouldn't run nitrous...(someone will tell me I'm wrong by this afternoon, just my opinion)

As for the installation of a heads and cam package, there are plenty of shops all over the place that can take care of it for you. Where are you located? If you feel like learning about your car and becoming very well acquainted with it and its engine, you could do it yourself, taking it slow over a couple of days; there are a lot of write ups on just about anything you'd ever need to do (ls1howto.com) with the LSX. Total cost of a heads/cam swap including bolt ons and a nice intake manifold and exhaust system (which you have an SLP already) with headers and completely installed professionally would be somewhere around $4500-$5000. Another $400 for a tune and you're driving on the street with an easy 400 rwhp and running low 12's at the track. If you've got that scratch, its the way to go.

I don't really know much about nitrous but I've never really liked the idea of it (although I've considered it too). From what I've heard, it basically leans the engine out for a short amount of time to boost power shortly (leaning an engine obviously isn't good for long periods of time, you probably know that already).

The above is essentially not true at all.

There are two types of nitrous systems -- dry and wet.

With a dry system, nitrous is injected into the intake somewhere. If that's all you did, it would lean out the system, which is why you have to re-tune the car to inject more fuel when you're using nitrous.

With a wet system, nitrous and fuel are injected together, with the fuel going in via a dedicated jet (or jets). This means you don't have to adjust the amount of fuel being injected by the computer.

In both cases, the additional fuel prevents the engine from leaning out. Leaning out an engine is not good for any amount of time.

haha see? It only took an hour :p thanks for clearing it up for the man (and myself too) jakerobb

How many miles are on your Z28? I don't really know much about nitrous but I've never really liked the idea of it (although I've considered it too). From what I've heard, it basically leans the engine out for a short amount of time to boost power shortly (leaning an engine obviously isn't good for long periods of time, you probably know that already). If you've got 100k miles on it already, I probably wouldn't run nitrous...(someone will tell me I'm wrong by this afternoon, just my opinion)

Very Very wrong.

Nitrous splits up into oxygen/nitrogen atoms when it is heated in the bottle. When you release it, it comes out as a ton of oxygen molecules, which makes more power when you add more fuel. Just like any other power adder. More air/fuel = more power.

Dry kit = adding fuel by spraying only nitrous in front of the MAF and letting the computer add fuel using your injectors (need bigger injectors)

Wet kit = adding fuel by spraying fuel/nitrous at the same time after the MAF. The amount of fuel you spray is already calculated in the fuel jet size corresponding to the nitrous jet size.

Mike

Interesting...what would the nitrogen do then? just wondering if you knew...is it flammable and therefore help combustion as well? and if yall have a safe recommendation of the number of miles on a car that is capable of running nitrous, let us hear it please. thanks

Interesting...what would the nitrogen do then? just wondering if you knew...is it flammable and therefore help combustion as well? and if yall have a safe recommendation of the number of miles on a car that is capable of running nitrous, let us hear it please. thanks

I can never remember exactly what role it plays. It doesn't take an active part in combustion -- nitrogen is not flammable. IIRC, it helps cool the combustion chamber and it promotes stable combustion.

Well then what makes nitrous so bad that causes so many people to not want to use it? Just the information like I had? lol There is undoubtedly some increase in boom in the engine so is that extra stress what causes failures?

There is undoubtedly some increase in boom in the engine so is that extra stress what causes failures?

:yes:

Well then what makes nitrous so bad that causes so many people to not want to use it? Just the information like I had? lol There is undoubtedly some increase in boom in the engine so is that extra stress what causes failures?

HUGE increase in cylinder pressures mainly. And I don't care how good you are or how many safety devices you put on a nitrous engine, it's a ticking time bomb. There are just too many things that can go wrong to cause catastrophic engine failure that you wouldn't find in a naturally aspirated application. The tune and fueling must be dead nuts accurate at all times. A minute hiccup in the fuel pump, nitrous or fuel solenoid, engine RPM or load, a tune that's not 100%, weak/worn ignition components, etc will destroy an engine in a heartbeat. Nitrous is however a good way to make cheap power, and is lots of fun. Piston companies love it :lol:

nothing changed? The reason I didn't say what it is, is because people like you always wanna argue and I don't feel like arguing about it, why should I get ridicule , because I have an extremely rare car, like I told the other guy in the last post , I have a 69Z28 302 4 speed on ebay right now it's about to end but check it out, thats the kind of cars I deal with, but i don't expect anyone to know me here so thats why I don't bring it up, cuz most people don't have the cars I do, or the money to buy them

Coming on to a car forum in a tech section and assuming that the people here don't know about cars is counterproductive.
If you had actually came in here without any chest thumping about your ''special'' vette and asked about your Z then none of this would have happened.

Awesome!! Now I can ask you all my questions!!! Haha , well I know my car was appraised at 75k, and I really don't care if that one guy thinks i'm lying!! I've been in the car business for a long time, but it's nice to find someone as knowledgable about these cars as you...I'll send you some pics of my baby as soon as I can! The car was originally hit in the fender and I bought it at a Auction in Indianapolis, and I own a little body shop, so I fixed it for next to nothin, now I got a badass vette, that most people don't know what it even is!! Thats why I usually don't even say, because most people just say like you did , "thats BS, no corvette comes with all that stock" It's not worth the arguement for me,
oh I also have a 69 REAL Z28 original 302 4 speed for sale on ebay right now, just to show you I deal in NICE SH**

People say its bs because it is. This is probably one of the biggest and generally most knowledgable group of LSX enthuisest. Your car didnt come from the factory with a "special heads/cam package" that no one knew about. If it is a true Lingenfelter car the VIN would probably tell, and iirc thats not factory, LPE took the car and did the work. But id say you saw all of us saying your car didnt come factory with that and you googled it and found Lingenfelter then voila, Hey my car is a Lingenfelter!