Pacesetter LTs

Ok, so i am doing it. getting headers. I cant quite afford kooks and get them coated...that would cost clost to 2 grand. I have heard alot of people here are using the pacesetters. is there any reason why i shouldnt? Is the performance different between the other brands? Perforamnce is my main goal.

How about ground clearnce? Major issue for me. The car is lowered.

also, how sexy loud is the car going to be with no cats and my SLP dual/dual muffler? Not too raspy i hope.

Just looking for some feedback and/or opinions.

Thanks all,
Justin

i dont think performance will change much between brands. ground clearance is great with pacesetters

agreed....assuming identical sized primaries and collectors...the gains should be identical.

sound should be reasonable...you can always stick a bullet muffler behind the Ypipe to tone rasp down a little bit...it helps and doesn't hinder flow much

i just dont want a tin can sound. but loud is good. i want the in-laws to hear me coming. :-)

do i need new header bolts, or can i re-used my old ones?

IMO your best bet for header bolts would be stainless 1" ARP with the 5/16" head w/ Felpro gaskets.

The hardware Pacesetter supplies (bolts and gaskets) is junk. Upgrade to some better gaskets and locking header bolts.

IMO your best bet for header bolts would be stainless 1" ARP with the 5/16" head w/ Felpro gaskets.

note taken. thanks.

anyone know the best place to get them? So far ls1speed.com has the best prices. and free shipping.

my cruisin buddy has pacesetter LTs on a 2002 trans am which is lowered at least 1.5" and he hasnt had any issues. pacesetters tuck up nicely, my LT1 longtubes even cleared a floor hoist to my surprise.

How bad is the install on this? can i do it in my driveway? ive heard of people having to lift the motor ot fit them in? How high will i need to get the car off of the ground?

it appears ARP only makes a stud kit for LS1's? at $100 a set, go with the stage 8 bolts on LS1speed

I dont what my S*** loosening up though. dont like rattles. are the stage 8 bolts good? im getting into uncharted territory for me, so i know nothing of headers and such.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/243722/11

this write up should help you out.

if you can afford the extra cash, go with the ARP's. the bad thing i noticed w/ stage 8's, was when you had the bolts nice and tight, you would sometimes have to back them off to get the locks on. thats why i got rid of mine

hmmm...looks like i'll need beer. ;)

How bad is the install on this? can i do it in my driveway? ive heard of people having to lift the motor ot fit them in? How high will i need to get the car off of the ground?
my buddy did it in a weekend by himself. said it was easy. make sure you get some PB blaster, its a life saver. I honestly dont know how difficult an LS1 is, i know they are easier than LT1s. when i did my LT1 though i found it a LOT eaiser to unmount the engine and get it out of the way than try to stuff the headers through and mar the coating up.

edit: if you dont want bolts loosening up, get some breslin lockers. thats what i have, they are expensive but worth the piece of mind IMO.

pb blaster?

rust penetrant. can be bought at just about any hardware/auto store or walmart.

The stuff is a miracle worker, i have a hard time fathoming how the stuff manages to loosen bolts so well. soak all your manifold bolts and y-pipe bolts wiht it the day before, and an hour before you remove them, and they will come off a TON easier.

oh...duh. yea.

ok...so my list is this:

Materials:

Pacesetters - coated
y-pipe
02 sims
02 extensions
ARP header bolts
better gasket - how is the pacesetter one bad? arnt the all the same stuff?
NKG-55 plugs - why not, i have them off anyway.
New wires - same as above.

Tools:
couple beers
Various Sockets
Torque wrench
various open ended wrenches
another case of beer
some mallets
jacks
jack stands
more beer
pry bar - 2x4 for movign the motor
BFH - for when the tough get going
shot of whiskey
and bandaides

have i missed antyhing i my lists? not too bad for 700 bux.

that looks good if you arent going with locker bolts, and yes you need better gaskets. the paper ones that come with pacesetters are junk. i used fel-pros and have had no problems. my friend reused his stock manifold gaskets, but his car was only 40k miles. oh and you also are gonna need at least one 3/8" universal joint.

what is the difference between the ARP bolts and locker bolts? i thought the ARP were locker bolts.

I'll get a new gasket, not worth screwing up the job for a $30 gasket.

what is the difference between the ARP bolts and locker bolts? i thought the ARP were locker bolts.

I'll get a new gasket, not worth screwing up the job for a $30 gasket.

im not sure if ARPs are lockers or not, i was under the impressiion they were basic header bolts. the breslins i have have an allen screw in the head that you turn the opposite direction to lock the bolt in the head.

The ARPs are a non-locking, stainless steel bolt.

and Breslin is out of business

and Breslin is out of business

dang, thats a news flash!:shock:

dang, thats a news flash!:shock:

From what I've heard, Summit and Jegs may still have some quantities if you call and ask. Otherwise, it looks like Stage 8 is the "go-to" company for locking fasteners.

ok...so...stage 8 or ARP?

like i said earlier, unless you want to spend $100 on a set of studs, then go with the stage 8

I would do the Stage 8s over the ARPs.

personally, i would like to save a few bux, thats why i am going with the pacesetters over kooks.

The Pacesetters are still a good set of headers, not nearly a match for the Kooks quality, but still a good value for the price. The coating is kind of a hit or miss though, for some it lasts a long time, for others like myself, it starts to rust in less then a years time.

i not too concerned about rusting...i dont drive the car in the rain.

i not too concerned about rusting...i dont drive the car in the rain.

Neither do I, I don't drive in the rain or snow and my car sees very limited driving time each year.

hmm...point taken. thanks. i still am going to go with the pacesetters, and if i see a consideral amount of rusting, ill upgrade later.

ive had mine on since april, no sign of rust or anything like that.

As I previously mentioned, its kind of a hit or miss thing. Some people have had their coated Pacesetters for years and they show no signs of rust or corrosion. In my case, mine started rusting in less then a years time. I'm not too concerned about it, afterall, they are a budget header so I can't expect the world. One day I hope to upgrade to Kooks and a true dual setup.:cool:

As I previously mentioned, its kind of a hit or miss thing. Some people have had their coated Pacesetters for years and they show no signs of rust or corrosion. In my case, mine started rusting in less then a years time. I'm not too concerned about it, afterall, they are a budget header so I can't expect the world. One day I hope to upgrade to Kooks and a true dual setup.:cool:

when did u buy ur pacesetters?

I would like to say I bought them in July of 2005.

i bought mine in aug of 2006 and have driven 3500 miles and mine are showing signs of rust also

budget headers...AMEN. for me, this is all budget. when i can afford it, ill get some kooks. and maybe a vette. ;)

anyone have or know where i can get a detailed write up of the install?

anyone have or know where i can get a detailed write up of the install?

Teke184 has a guide on his Cardomain for a header install on an LS1.

I would add poly motor mounts to your parts/install list. I installed them on my 98z at the same time I installed pacesetter LTs and ORY, and I have not had any issues with the Y pipe banging. Definately worth the extra 50 bucks for the mounts, and so much easier to install when the manifolds are removed.

The pacesetters fit great and tuck up tight. I did not have to remove anything other than the stock exhaust manifolds and the small heat shields on the body to allow for clearance on the install.

As for the tools, swivel sockets and a swivel head ratchet are worth 10x their weight in gold and simplify the install a lot. I also would have a sawzall and torch handy to remove the old and mate the new y pipe up to the existing cat back without mangling it to pieces. Just my .02

how bad is your vibration with the polly motor mounts?

Some people don't notice much vibration at all, some do it seems. From what I have heard, it is a good idea to replace the motor mounts and tranny mount together with poly and that should play a big factor in reduced vibrations.

ok. note taken. polly mounts it is. :-)

still have to wait for the weather to break first. g.d. weather. :mad: