Older 350 CI into 93-95 Camaro swap...

Anybody ever put a 350C.I. motor in a 93-95 Camaro? And if so what is involved in the swap as far as *cough* custom additions, and difficulty. etc.

IMO it would be these 4 problems involved:

#1 fit of engine in shorter engine bay
#2 motor mounts
#3 Transmission mounts when a turbo 350/400 is used
#4 Ignition Computer problems

I would remove all computer related stuff except for ignition and instrument gauges, I DO NOT WANT A COMP CONTROLLED SMALL BLOCK. I'm shooting for ease of repair and reliabiltiy here as well as a tad more "punch" with this swap.


-Rabid :death:


__________________

why don't you swap to an LS1 since you want to do a swap? the swap of the LS1 is stright forward and there is very minor modification to the A/C lines otherwise it is straight forward and i assume the LS1 will make more power since the stock LS1 heads can flow 310+ cfm when ported (stage 2).

conversion from LT1 to LS1 :

1- You can use the earlier transmission with a special flywheel and adapter from GM.

2- You have to use the 98-02 front crossmember and engine mounts

3- Use the 94 transmission crossmember.

4- The LS1 engine harness will have to be modified so it will mate up to your existing engine compartment and interior harnesses. If you get a
99-02 engine, you will have to run a second set of sensors in the engine to
run the gauges.

5- Any 98-02mods will work, the frame of the car didnt change.

6- I dont carry custom harnesses. Check my Links page for companies
that do.

7- Any 93-02 f-body radiator will fit.

8- Any 93-02 dual fans will work.

9- The ABS, fuel pump and lines all work. You will have to modify the
A/C lines.

Mark Whitley www.hpsalvage.com
mark@hpsalvage.com 210-649-2554

Originally posted by RabidDog24
Anybody ever put a 350C.I. motor in a 93-95 Camaro? And if so what is involved in the swap as far as *cough* custom additions, and difficulty. etc.

IMO it would be these 4 problems involved:

#1 fit of engine in shorter engine bay
#2 motor mounts
#3 Transmission mounts when a turbo 350/400 is used
#4 Ignition Computer problems

I would remove all computer related stuff except for ignition and instrument gauges, I DO NOT WANT A COMP CONTROLLED SMALL BLOCK. I'm shooting for ease of repair and reliabiltiy here as well as a tad more "punch" with this swap.


-Rabid :death:
.


__________________

#1 & #2. It's the same engine, just different. A sbc well bolt in.
It is tight around the distibiter
#3. BMR sells a trans adapter mount.
#4 Bypass the VATS, don't know about oem gauges.
How you going to get this thru emmisions?
For ease of repair, reliability and "punch" I would keep the LT1, far superior to the old sbc

Abdullah:

#1 This car does not have a motor, and I do not want a late model engine (yes even a LS1 :eek: ). I have the motor I want to go into the car already, as well as all the parts to finish except for any adapters that would be needed. So why go through extra expense and trouble to buy a motor I have no knowledge of, and waste my "built to the huilt" (sp?) :D 350?? As I said before I do not want any computer controlled aspects on this motor. The only "computer" control this car will see is "maybe" a add-on Edelbrock MPFI kit.

#2 I appreciate the help but this is a vary! :p specific project, and im a bit "set-in-my-ways". But mucho thanks anyway d00d.


Steve:

Thanks for a very informative post. :bow:

#1 & #2 So I guess a low profile HEI distributer would be the answer to that then, which is great because I ahve 2 of them. ;)

#3 I've never heard of BMR can you/someone throw me a link to them or a address/phone number for a catalog?

#4 Hmm bypass the VATS, Any tech articles or links to this process? Any info would be GREATLY appreciated on this and the above.

"How are you going to get this thing through emissions?"

Simple, I live in Tennessee. The only emissions testing we have is if the neighbors complain about the smell of our cows at night. :D

And like I said I can't keep a LT1 I don't already have/want. This seems to be a much better board than some I've found. Thanks again guys, really

-Rabid :death:

Since you already have the "built to the hilt" engine, and you apparently already have a body without an engine, it might be helpful if you provide the details of the engine and the body. The issue with the distributor has already been touched on.... hood clearance with some carb/manifold combo's can be a problem.

And, which body you start out with will determine in part what you can do as far as maintaining the non-engine related features of the computer. If you start with a V8 chassis, the PCM will likely not be suitable, and you will need alternative interfaces for the fuel pump, speedo and tach (no other dash gauges use the computer). With a V6 chassis/computer, the interface requirements will be different. And, what "accessories" do you plan to use.... A/C, power steering? The cooling systems are also different between the V8 and V6 chassis. Possibly some K-member issues.

You can mount a TH400 with a modified 4th Gen T56 trans cross-member. If you want info on BMR:

BMR FABRICATIONS (http://www.bmrfabrication.com/)

Originally posted by Injuneer
Since you already have the "built to the hilt" engine, and you apparently already have a body without an engine, it might be helpful if you provide the details of the engine and the body. The issue with the distributor has already been touched on.... hood clearance with some carb/manifold combo's can be a problem.

1994 Camaro V6 chassis w/ a 1978 350 C.I. 350 Engine w/ Turbo 400 transmission, that is ready to be dropped in anytime.

Yeah, I've heard about the clearance issue, and I'd be getting a induction or cowl hood anyway, so that's no biggie. And the low profile mallery distributer I have would solve the other one.

And, which body you start out with will determine in part what you can do as far as maintaining the non-engine related features of the computer. If you start with a V8 chassis, the PCM will likely not be suitable, and you will need alternative interfaces for the fuel pump, speedo and tach (no other dash gauges use the computer). With a V6 chassis/computer, the interface requirements will be different. And, what "accessories" do you plan to use.... A/C, power steering? The cooling systems are also different between the V8 and V6 chassis. Possibly some K-member issues.

Well looks like the speedo and tach will have to be modified to work with a cable then. As I'm not going to go to the trouble/expense of finding a V8 and snagging it's computer and wiring. As for the fuel pump it will be no longer needed as I will run a fuel line to the mech. pump on the block. And cooling is no problem either, as I'll just use a slimline radiator and the hoses and waterpump that the 350 uses now. (currently in a third gen).

I'm not sure why it matters what accessories I would be using but, no A/C but yes obviously P/S. :D

Also, these "k" member issues your talking about would they be with the oilpan?

-RAbid :death:

I have swapped a carb'd sbc into a '95 camaro and can say that its a major PITA. The cowl area forward and below the windshield needs to be cut away for dist. and air cleaner clearance,even with a low profile unit. The wiper mechanism will get in the way of the dist. and will need to be removed. The power steering hoses will need to be custom made. The alternator may interfere with the hood and will need a custom made mount, etc. After its all done you will not good access to the dist. cap, and should you have to pull the dist. out for any reason, you will get to do it by removing it in conjuntion with the intake manifold.

I also am doing the switch but am waiting for it to get warm again.

I already have all my goods to go. I will be running a crank trigger with a crab style MSD low profile distributer. The area of cowl in front of the windsheild is already set to go with a plate that can be taken out by some bolts.

As for the speedo i will be running a th400 but will have a VSS from a 4L80E but i am not sure if it will work since i am changing the first and second gears in the tranny.

I will be running a TBI fuel pump. I will fit in the stock tank and all the lines are the same it just puts out a lower PSI that a regulator can stand.

I am keeping the stock charging system and i am still not sure if the stock LT1 access bracket will fit with an old school block but my guesses are it will. I already have notched valve covers so i cannot see what other problems there will be just yet.

My vats is already bypassed, the stock gauges will all work except for the voltage if you wire them in directly.

I am sure i will run into some snags but any custom work is my specialty so i am just waiting for the warmth.

So: (yes more questions :D)

#1 What engine mounts will I need for the swap?
#2 Is there any oilpan/crossmember clearance problems?
#3 How do you rig the shifter on the TH-400 to work with the Camaro's stock shifter? Or do you?
#4 Can I use a driveshaft from one of my thirdgens, and will it bolt up to the newer rear end?

Oh and anyone else who has done the swap, did you have alternator/wiper motor problems?

And I have a 94, do these exist in the 93/94's?

Ive done a 6 banger to 350 conversion in one of my third gens, and THAT was a major PITA. Mostly because I was rushing to do it, and jury rigged everything instead of slowing down and doing it right. Not saying thats the usual with conversions like this, but I think if I take my time and do it right, the end results will be worth all the effort!

Oh and LJ93Z28GM:

How did you make that access plate for the distributer? and did you have wiper motor problems?

-Rabid :death:

LJ93Z28GM:

Oh and one more question, could you post a pic of the area that you cutout for the dissy? :D

thanks,
-Rabid :death:

Sorry but no digi cam. The plate is pretty much a matching piece to what i cut out of the cowl area. It is just about 2 inches longer so that it overlaps where i bolt it up. the only time you use it is if you have to redrop the dist.

Oh well, :cry:

Anybody have any answers to the post three up from here? ;)

-Rabid :death:

Originally posted by RabidDog24

#1 What engine mounts will I need for the swap?

I don't know the answers for sure, but you seem to be struggling here..... The LT1 mounts are NOT the same as a "standard" SBC mount. You will need something other than stock, but I don't know what it is. I know a guy that just put a Dart block in a 4th Gen F-Body... I'll see if he can tell me what he used.

#2 Is there any oilpan/crossmember clearance problems?
Again, the LT1 oil pan is a unique shape. On top of that I am pretty sure the V6 chassis k-member is different than the V8 chassis k-member.... do not know for sure though. The person referenced above has a PA racing tubular k-member. I would suspect that you are going to have an interference with a Gen I SBC in a V6 4th Gen chassis.

#3 How do you rig the shifter on the TH-400 to work with the Camaro's stock shifter? Or do you?
What kind of TH400 are you using? I have a TH400 behind an LT1 in a 4th Gen, but I use a manual valve body and a B&M Pro-Ratchet shifter. That will fit on the tunnel of the 4th Gen, and I have it mounted in the stock M6 console. I have no idea what version of a shifter they used in the V6 chassis.... in the V8 chassis there are two different versions of the A4 shifter, depending on whether you bought a "preformance axle" option that got you a selectable 1st gear.

You also have to address the issue of the front torque arm mount. The 4th Gen mounts the TA to the tailshaft of the tranny. With a TH400, you either need to get an adapter, or go to an aftermarket TA that mounts to the "g-load" tranny tunnel brace.


#4 Can I use a driveshaft from one of my thirdgens, and will it bolt up to the newer rear end?
The 3rd Gen V8, the 4th Gen V8 and the 4th Gen V6 all used the same length DS. The V6 DS was a two piece with center bearing/support. The TH400 is a little longer than the stock 4th Gen 4L60E, so you generally need a shorter DS. You will also need a DS with the TH400 yoke on it. At the back end, the 4th Gen 10-bolt uses a 1310 u-joint. But if you have any decent HP, a 10-bolt isn't going to last very long. And, the V6 typically has an open diff, with drum brakes, while a V8 chassis would have a Posi and disc brakes.

One thing that makes these questions hard to answer, particularly 3 & 4 is the lack of details. If you have some sort of extremely high HP engine, you may be using a manual shift TH400, and you may need a better than stock DS just to handle the HP. You will probably need something better than a 10-bolt rear axle assembly.

Like I said, I don't KNOW the answers..... I never did the swap.

Fred

The V6 and V8 crossmembers are in fact different.

My biggest concern would be what about all of the other stuff like lights, turn signals, and most importanly abs brakes. How is this stuff going to work without the computer and harnesses? Might want to think this out a little more and i am going to say there are going to be many things you have not accounted for yet.

Originally posted by 94-3.4
The V6 and V8 crossmembers are in fact different.

My biggest concern would be what about all of the other stuff like lights, turn signals, and most importanly abs brakes. How is this stuff going to work without the computer and harnesses? Might want to think this out a little more and i am going to say there are going to be many things you have not accounted for yet.

LoL,
I didn't say I wanted to totally remove the computer, just remove the computer engine controls from the "equation". besides,the computer does not control the headlights and turnsignals, those are (as anyone will tell you) simple on/off device controlled. And as for ABS brakes, well like I said, the comp will still be there. And I'm not even sure ABS is computer controlled anyway. :p Of course there are things I have not accounted for, thats the way with any swap. Minor/Major annoyances are par-4-tha-course.

I don't know the answers for sure, but you seem to be struggling here..... The LT1 mounts are NOT the same as a "standard" SBC mount. You will need something other than stock, but I don't know what it is. I know a guy that just put a Dart block in a 4th Gen F-Body... I'll see if he can tell me what he used.

#1 Yes, I noticed that last night, one of my firends showed me the underhood area of his 93 V6, it seems the engine mounts are like large "triangles" for lack of a better word, that bolt up to the block. If BMR sells the K-Member maybe they sell block adapters as well? :confused:

Again, the LT1 oil pan is a unique shape. On top of that I am pretty sure the V6 chassis k-member is different than the V8 chassis k-member.... do not know for sure though. The person referenced above has a PA racing tubular k-member. I would suspect that you are going to have an interference with a Gen I SBC in a V6 4th Gen chassis.

#2 I have figured as much, and I have seen the replacement K-member on BMR's site. But looks like I might swap my V6 car for a V8 chassis car seems like it might be a "tad" easier, lol. But if I cant, I'll just swap the crossmember for the tubular one. But I would prefer to be as "Stock" as possible (hence less maintenance/more reliability) :cool:

What kind of TH400 are you using? I have a TH400 behind an LT1 in a 4th Gen, but I use a manual valve body and a B&M Pro-Ratchet shifter. That will fit on the tunnel of the 4th Gen, and I have it mounted in the stock M6 console. I have no idea what version of a shifter they used in the V6 chassis.... in the V8 chassis there are two different versions of the A4 shifter, depending on whether you bought a "preformance axle" option that got you a selectable 1st gear.

You also have to address the issue of the front torque arm mount. The 4th Gen mounts the TA to the tailshaft of the tranny. With a TH400, you either need to get an adapter, or go to an aftermarket TA that mounts to the "g-load" tranny tunnel brace.

#3 Well, I do like the look of the "hammer" B&M shifters, and I've put a B&M on my thirdgen, (talk about a PITA :mad: ). If the Pro-Ratchet fits will the hammer fit as well? Wouldn't I have to hack and slash the console? That I do not want. :eek:

This is just a "stock" 400, so maybe I could have a shifter plate machined to adapt the stock shifter cable to the new transmission? Therefore cancelling the need for a new shifter.

And yes I'll be buying the adapter for the transmission. ;)

The 3rd Gen V8, the 4th Gen V8 and the 4th Gen V6 all used the same length DS. The V6 DS was a two piece with center bearing/support. The TH400 is a little longer than the stock 4th Gen 4L60E, so you generally need a shorter DS. You will also need a DS with the TH400 yoke on it. At the back end, the 4th Gen 10-bolt uses a 1310 u-joint. But if you have any decent HP, a 10-bolt isn't going to last very long. And, the V6 typically has an open diff, with drum brakes, while a V8 chassis would have a Posi and disc brakes.

One thing that makes these questions hard to answer, particularly 3 & 4 is the lack of details. If you have some sort of extremely high HP engine, you may be using a manual shift TH400, and you may need a better than stock DS just to handle the HP. You will probably need something better than a 10-bolt rear axle assembly.

Like I said, I don't KNOW the answers..... I never did the swap.

Fred

#4 Well this engine is not high on the "HP" side just mostly purty and reliable, and like I said above, Ive done the V6 to V8 swap to a TH400 so I already have the driveshaft cut and ready I suspect, esp. If I use the same transmission. And I haven't cut out the possibility of replacing the rear end. If the gear stinks, oh believe me it will get yanked.

So just imagine a completely stock 350 and 400 from a late 70's vehicle and you'd be right on the money with your imaginen' :wink: I think I'm going to look for a V8 chassis while I plan all this. My uncle found me the V6 chassy quick, maybe he can find the V8 quick as well.

TAG!!! Your it. :bow:


-Rabid :death:

If you do a search in the lt1 tech section for aftermarket a4 shifters there was a post yesterday about it and there was a link to a guy that had the hammerhead in his stock console and it looks pretty slick.

I am actually doing a LT1 conversion to my former 3.4l this winter. It is really easy to just drop out the entire kframe with the tranny and engine together so it might be benificial just to swap out the kmembers at that time. I was also thinking that it might be possible to weld up custom mounts on the existing kmember. I remember reading that all it took to make a lt1 kmember to fit a bbc was just a little custom fab stuff and nothing extreme.

Here is a pic i found that might help you
http://www.coloradof-body.com/kevinb/images/lt1%20with%20distributor.jpg

Good luck to ya!

so you want to go from a 240 rwhp motor to a c.170 (being very generous) rwhp motor?


uh, ok. we might have a new contender for slowest 4th-gen ever.

i guess i'm missing the point. you said earlier that you want better reliability, less maintainence. a carb will give you about four times more work than an fi setup.

tenn may not have sniffer tests, but if the inspector ever lifts your hood, your screwed.

i have that problem now. i have a 1985 blazer that the dude who owned it b4 me swapped in a sbc. and installed a victor jr. i have no idea how i'm gonna get it inspected. there are no emissions to speak of. he even left the cats completely off. we don't have sniffers here in austin, texas either. but if he lifts the hood, i'm screwed.

i've said this b4, and i'll say it again. removal of emissions equipment is a FEDERAL law, not state. not only does that mean that it doesn't matter which state you are in, it means if you get caught, you have HUGE fines.


more power to ya'. i hope it works for you. and let me know where you get it inpsected, it might be worth the trip for me.

i'm swaping a lt1 into my 62 impala. my understanding is that VATS disables fuel injectors, but my haynes manual says starter. my donor was a 93. either way running with a carb vehicle i dont think vats would stop ya.

i have motor mounts off a 93 lt1 from a camaro. they are different on each side, they were on my donor motor when i got it. if you need them just email me i'll give them to you + shipping.

i saw the car i got my lt1 from, and he had put a 383 carbed engine in it. he couldnt run a air cleaner the choke tower was soo close the the cowl. it was dark and i didn't see much else on the car.

the side of the LT1 block has extra reinforcements where the motor mount bolts on, and an extra bolt hole on the passanger side. swaping to older style mounts i had no problem, but putting newer mounts on old block, you might have a problem there.

on the tranny my 700R4 on the 93 was 3 inches longer the the 350, i had to shorten the drive shaft in my '62 impala by 3 inches. some custom tranny mount will need to be done. you wil need a longer driveshaft most likely.

one thing you might look at is moving the entire engine forward, i'm not sure how much room there is to do that, oil pan clearance, but just a thought.

anyways, theres the infermation i have, hope some of its usefull.

-Brendan.

i think the original question was about swaping a carbed engine into his 4th gen. it shouldnt matter of its' a 3 cylinder out of a metro or a v12 from a viper, if someone wants to do it more power to them, i dont think everyone has to question someone elses actions. lets give this guy some information he needs.


thanks,


brendan.

:bow: Thanks all for the great responses, I'll read them better and respond even to the odd one *cough* conquest *cough*when I come back from Ohio in two days, or tonight, if I can use the net...........

-Rabid :death:

Ok I'm back and I think this is going to be a long post.... :alert:

Originally posted by 94-3.4
If you do a search in the lt1 tech section for aftermarket a4 shifters there was a post yesterday about it and there was a link to a guy that had the hammerhead in his stock console and it looks pretty slick.

Link? I can't seem to find what your talking about maybe it's been deleted?

Here is a pic i found that might help you
http://www.coloradof-body.com/kevinb/images/lt1%20with%20distributor.jpg

where did you get this pic from? Is that a BBC? Any pics of the mounts?

i have motor mounts off a 93 lt1 from a camaro. they are different on each side, they were on my donor motor when i got it. if you need them just email me i'll give them to you + shipping.

:D YGM + YGPM :D

the side of the LT1 block has extra reinforcements where the motor mount bolts on, and an extra bolt hole on the passanger side. swaping to older style mounts i had no problem, but putting newer mounts on old block, you might have a problem there.

Im cornfuzzled on what you wrote here (although highly informative) Do you mean you used old mounts to mount the block to the frame and had no problem? I can/have any kind of motor mount made by chevy..... ;)

i guess i'm missing the point. you said earlier that you want better reliability, less maintainence. a carb will give you about four times more work than an fi setup.

Uh, "ok" you mean I can totally remove a FI setup in ten minutes like a carb, instead of hours?? Or change an injector in minutes like I can a carb jet, versus hours? Or tune a FI setup by turning two screws and a good ear instead of hours like FI?? eh. maybe it's ME who doesn't get the point.

i've said this b4, and i'll say it again. removal of emissions equipment is a FEDERAL law, not state. not only does that mean that it doesn't matter which state you are in, it means if you get caught, you have HUGE fines.


more power to ya'. i hope it works for you. and let me know where you get it inpsected, it might be worth the trip for me.

WAAA! + Thanks!

so you want to go from a 240 rwhp motor to a c.170 (being very generous) rwhp motor?


uh, ok. we might have a new contender for slowest 4th-gen ever.

Uh, "ok". This motor has more than 170 RWHP, and was in both my 3rd gen camaro, and my 1957 chevy. Which is a hella lot heavier than any camaro EVER made. (4800 pounds) and it moved that baby pretty damn good, so line yours up, and we'll see how your 6 banger works for ya!! But the point of this is not speed, I don't need to act big and bad like I used to. I have a big ol' jones and I don't need to race everybody to prove it, any doubts? ask my girl, hehe. :cry:

i think the original question was about swaping a carbed engine into his 4th gen. it shouldnt matter of its' a 3 cylinder out of a metro or a v12 from a viper, if someone wants to do it more power to them, i dont think everyone has to question someone elses actions. lets give this guy some information he needs.

Thanks for getting (or trieng) to get this thread back on track.


So to sum up what I now know so far:

#1 need to possibly fab motor mounts
#2 need to get V8 crossmember from donor car or buy a tubular one.
#3 bypass VATS
#4 buy transmission adaptor and possibly lengthen/shorten driveshaft
#5 fabricate hoses and cooling system to work with stock
#6 cut firewall at dissy area
#7 buy new hood
#8 buy new shifter OR fab old one to work with 400 shift plate.
#9 replace fuel pump with TBI unit
#10 possibly replace rear end if it "yanks" :D

I miss anything???

The one problem I HAVE to solve is the motor mount problem.......


Thanks again,

-Rabid :death:

OK. first i highly disagree with fred about the 10 bolt. rabid: you said your not going out and doing neutral drops and stupid stuff like that right? the 10 bolt will be fine. you could run the 10 bolt with 500hp if you launch soft whats the point? dont worry about the rearend. i wanted to do a swap on my old 3rd gen to a carbed setup too. sold it for the T/A before i could. good luck


doug

one of hte smog rules is you cant put a older moter in a newer car no mater the emissions output. you will have to cheat it by giving the inspector a crisp $20 or you can change the numbers on the block. But i doubt many mechanics will enforce it. depends on the inspection officer you go to.

If anyone is interested in bypassing VATS. Post on www.mfba.org and look for PureEvil he will send you some info on how to bypass it. It is not that hard you just need to find the resistor value in your key and splice it inline so that the computer still reads that it is there. Something along those lines if i remeber correctly.

Originally posted by CASPER97TA
OK. first i highly disagree with fred about the 10 bolt. rabid: you said your not going out and doing neutral drops and stupid stuff like that right? the 10 bolt will be fine. you could run the 10 bolt with 500hp if you launch soft whats the point? dont worry about the rearend. i wanted to do a swap on my old 3rd gen to a carbed setup too. sold it for the T/A before i could. good luck


doug

At the point I made my statement, we knew very little, if anything about his motor, or how he was going to use it. I have yet to see anything more definitive than it is "built to the huilt (sp?)".........

I was just trying to stimulate thought, i.e. the word "probably"...... :rolleyes:

But then we've all seen some people who manage to break a 10-bolt with an automatic, street tires and a stock motor..... Again, assuming he wants a posi rear, he may not have one in the V6 chassis, so a replacement of some sort is called for..... but then maybe he doesn't want to race it, and posi isn't an issue, and maybe he doesn't want to drive too fast, so rear disc brakes aren't important either......... :rolleyes:

Originally posted by CASPER97TA
OK. first i highly disagree with fred about the 10 bolt. rabid: you said your not going out and doing neutral drops and stupid stuff like that right? the 10 bolt will be fine. you could run the 10 bolt with 500hp if you launch soft whats the point? dont worry about the rearend. i wanted to do a swap on my old 3rd gen to a carbed setup too. sold it for the T/A before i could. good luck


Nope no stupid $hit like that. Now, used to, hehe. ;) Well I actually did the swap in my 84, and it's a major PITA with no planning. With planning and enough $$$ I've seen it go very, very well. Thanks for the well wishes......... :cool:

Originally posted by TurbOracingone of hte smog rules is you cant put a older moter in a newer car no mater the emissions output. you will have to cheat it by giving the inspector a crisp $20 or you can change the numbers on the block. But i doubt many mechanics will enforce it. depends on the inspection officer you go to.

I have never had one inspected, dont know anyone who has, never seen a inspection booth/guy/place. So who cares? *knock on wood* LoL

Originally posted by LJ93Z28GMIf anyone is interested in bypassing VATS. Post on www.mfba.org and look for PureEvil he will send you some info on how to bypass it. It is not that hard you just need to find the resistor value in your key and splice it inline so that the computer still reads that it is there. Something along those lines if i remeber correctly.

One word, "Thanks" I was just about to ask about this. :bow:

Originally posted by Apex I have swapped a carb'd sbc into a '95 camaro and can say that its a major PITA. The cowl area forward and below the windshield needs to be cut away for dist. and air cleaner clearance,even with a low profile unit. The wiper mechanism will get in the way of the dist. and will need to be removed. The power steering hoses will need to be custom made. The alternator may interfere with the hood and will need a custom made mount, etc. After its all done you will not good access to the dist. cap, and should you have to pull the dist. out for any reason, you will get to do it by removing it in conjuntion with the intake manifold.

Apex bud, seems your the only one so far that has made it to third base. How did you mount the block, when the blocks are so different? Even that other guy says it would just bolt in, I've seen pics and diagrams, lol I just dont see it. :frown:

Originally posted by InjuneerAt the point I made my statement, we knew very little, if anything about his motor, or how he was going to use it. I have yet to see anything more definitive than it is "built to the huilt (sp?)".........

I was just trying to stimulate thought, i.e. the word "probably"......

But then we've all seen some people who manage to break a 10-bolt with an automatic, street tires and a stock motor..... Again, assuming he wants a posi rear, he may not have one in the V6 chassis, so a replacement of some sort is called for..... but then maybe he doesn't want to race it, and posi isn't an issue, and maybe he doesn't want to drive too fast, so rear disc brakes aren't important either.........


It does not matter what has been done to the motor HP wise. I started this thread to get a idea of how I could do this swap seeing as I had a chassis. (now I have 2 to pic from) :D The motor will bolt up the same whether I have 500 HP or a cracked block. Let's not put the camaro before the horse shall we? I need the motor in and actually [working] before I worry about the rear end holding up. So all that jargon above means nothing. And please lets not make this a "opinion" thread about emissions or speed issues. This thread is for TECHNICAL INFORMATION, NOT DEBATE. Everyone here that wants to add .02 can read the full thread and offer information. Your a mod, I need you to do your job, and not add kindling to the fire with " :rolleyes: ".

That said, It now it appears I may have two chassy's to choose from, I have to call today to find out. :cry:

-Rabid :death:

So all that jargon above means nothing. And please lets not make this a "opinion" thread about emissions or speed issues.

Odd.... you send me a personal e-mail.... you ask me to help.... I admit I know nothing about the subject, but give you the limited info I have, in order to try and bring a dying thread to life, and now you're offended because of the answers I gave you....

I give up.... :D

Fred

Originally posted by Injuneer
Odd.... you send me a personal e-mail.... you ask me to help.... I admit I know nothing about the subject, but give you the limited info I have, in order to try and bring a dying thread to life, and now you're offended because of the answers I gave you....

I give up.... :D

Fred


Oh well, the heart will go on, and on. :D


Everyone else I hope you saw all my " :D " and " :bow: 's " and other thanks in general for your answers and info, like I said before you guys are great, really good info/well wishes. :alert:


Does anybody know if the 93-95 cars equipped with stickshifts, still have the factory holes for the automatic crossmember? Looks like this chassy that has a V8 also has a manual tranny. So no front crossmember but I'd have to find a tranny crossmember for the t-400, unless i stay stick. Hmmm wonder if it would bolt up? LoL. Also Apex are you out there? /me pokes him with stick.

-Rabid :death:

AAACK! Is my thread :death: ?

Originally posted by Injuneer
You can mount a TH400 with a modified 4th Gen T56 trans cross-member. If you want info on BMR:

BMR FABRICATIONS (http://www.bmrfabrication.com/)

You can either get a manual crossmember and modify it yourself or get one from BMR as stated above.

The manual and automatics use the same four bolt holes to mount their crossmember.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48616

There is the link to the shifter thread.

Sorry for not posting sooner, I was on the annual hunting expedition. I ended up fabricating engine mounts for my car. Later I learned that the v6 engine cradle mount holes are different than the v8 cradle. If I were to do it again I would try using the 3rd gen engine mts, and drill the cradle to match the mts. That way you can locate the engine where you want it.

I would of just used motor plates.

sorry to TTT but:


TTT


-Rabid :death:

"Uh, "ok". This motor has more than 170 RWHP, and was in both my 3rd gen camaro, and my 1957 chevy. Which is a hella lot heavier than any camaro EVER made. (4800 pounds) and it moved that baby pretty damn good, so line yours up, and we'll see how your 6 banger works for ya!! But the point of this is not speed, I don't need to act big and bad like I used to. I have a big ol' jones and I don't need to race everybody to prove it, any doubts? ask my girl, hehe"


um,, didn't you say earlier to imagine a "stock" 350 or 400? late 70 "stock" 350 had about 150 at the engine. b4 the "stock" thing you said "built to the hilt". SSSSOOOORRRRYYYY, i am getting confused because i read two different things in the thread.

also, you said "...and we'll see how your 6 banger works....". huh? what six banger? what the hell are you talking about. i just wanted to understand why you are doing this. you said to cut down on maintance. dude a carb is ten times more maintanence than f.i. easily. granted a fi setup is harder(more expensive) to get tuned well, but once it is tuned, you can forget about it. a carb, especially a holley, needs to be tuned everytime the temp changes. here in texas that is like three times a day. i have an 85 blazer with a sbc 350 innit. i carry around at least four sets of jets, so i can change them when the truck starts to run crappy. and how much money have i spent over the years to replace blown power valves? more than the carb cost. (ok, most people aren't anal enough about their cars to actually do this, but i do, cause i want to be ready for a race anytime.)

i am not trying to tell you not to do this, but the STATED reasons you gave for the swap are false. not only that, but your mpg will drop from c.20 to c.10. if this is gonna be a strip only car, go for it. but if this is your daily driver, you might wanna rethink the whole carb thing.

you want info? o.k. old skool motor mounts will bolt right up to an lt1. ANY motor mounts will "fit" on the block. will they "fit" in the chassis is the hard question( one that i can't answer cause i don't own an f-body). the only way to answer is to try it and see. you will have major probs with the dizzy. it is all jsut a matter of time and patience.


give me about two months and i will race you. you think i hang out here because i have a conquest with a stock motor? roflmao. think about my username buddy. think some more. ok, stop, go ask your gfriend, maybe she can explain it. sigh.

http://www.superimagehost.com/image.php?src=244070981.jpg

click the link. do you get it now?????

This thread has outlived its usefulness.... time to close it down.