bleeding brakes...

can someone please tell me how to bleed the front and rear brakes on a 96 TA? i've changed the pads before but never bled them, i think that i should...

have someone sit in the car
push the brake to the floor
crack the bleeder valve on the caliper...then close it after the fluid stops running
then have the person lift thier foot off the brake
check fluid level

repeat

make sure they don't lift the brake pressure while the bleeder is open, you'll suck air in.

or get a $50 bleeder pump and use vacume to do it...much easier...but a bit mroe $$

^ the gravity/vaccuum bleeders are GREAT!

Start from the furthest from the Master Cyl. RR, LR, RF, LF. You can bleed as much out as you want, just be sure to check the fluid every three times you open the bleeder.

Basically, have someone step on the brake, opent he bleeder, close the bleeder, take foot off brake.

Step, open, close, lift... Repeat as necissary.

When You're done, it's allways a good precautionary measure to put your weight on the brake, to simulate an emergency stop. I mean... ALL of your weight on that pedal. If something brakes, it would be better for it to happen at the house rather than when you REALLY need the brakes....(Not a frequent thing, but everyonce in a great while.)

so let me get this straight...you step down on the pedal once for each wheel, let the fuid drain, close the bleeder valve, release the pedal, then add more fluid to the master cylinder when you're done?

You will need to repeat the cycle multiple times for each brake until the fluid changes to a light color. The first one takes the most number of cycles as your clearing the most amount of old fluid out of the lines. Use a turkey baster and remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir and then top it off with fresh fluid (poor it in slowlt to minimize mixing). This will reduce the amount you need to pump through the system.

Like Teke said, he got it, Hold the pedal down while the bleeder is open or you'll suck in air. Air in the system is what you're trying to get out. -That and the old fluid. If you beat on your brakes bad enough, the fluid can actually boil in the caliper itself.. (in xtreeme cases)...

You need a second person. Tell them to "Step on it" (and hold it till YOU tell them to let up. and have them say "FLOOR" when the pedal hits the floor for them)... Open the bleeder, let the fluid flow, when it slows close the bleeder and tell them to "take your foot off it" Repeat process as necissary untill you get a good flow of Apple Juice looking fluid. After three cycles of that, re-check the master cyl. don't let it get low, you'll make it worse on yourself.. You can bleed one wheel as much as you like.

and one more thing. Don't open that master cover for longer then you need. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, you DON'T want that. a Hydraulic system, is basically a closed system. The fluid that is in there stays in there, untill you change it. It souldn't leak. If you have a leak, you'll be loosing pressure somewhere.

how much fluid should i buy to replace the old stuff?

Don't forget the bleeders on the ABS unit.

how much fluid should i buy to replace the old stuff?

A quart should do it. I use Valvoline SynPower; a dot 4 that's good for 500 degrees F. Hard to beat it for the price.

Don't forget the bleeders on the ABS unit.

do you bleed the abs the same way?? pump to pressure, floor, open, close, lift?? check reservoir, repeat?? thanks.

david

also how much brake fluid should it take to bleed all 4 and fill the reservoir??

david

personally i like the rubber hose and soda bottle method

fill soda bottle halfway with brake fluid
put rubber hose in to bottom, and attach other end of hose to bleeder
crack open bleeder

pump brake peddal a billion and a half times until there are no bubbles comming out of the hose (or clear fluid depending on the nature of the fluid)
close the bleeder, remove the rubber hose and move on to the next hydraulic unit


of course you always start with the farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the front
and ABS cars have a slightly different recommended procedure, traction control cars really mess you up

personally i like the rubber hose and soda bottle method

fill soda bottle halfway with brake fluid
put rubber hose in to bottom, and attach other end of hose to bleeder
crack open bleeder

pump brake peddal a billion and a half times until there are no bubbles comming out of the hose (or clear fluid depending on the nature of the fluid)
close the bleeder, remove the rubber hose and move on to the next hydraulic unit


of course you always start with the farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the front
and ABS cars have a slightly different recommended procedure, traction control cars really mess you up

if lifting the pedal can cause air to be pulled in then how does this work? i understand the bottle with fluid to prevent air from being drawn back in but it seems to me like a small amount of fluid would just move back and forth?? also still wondering how much it takes total to flush and refill the whole thing??

david