sound deading, whos installed this in their car

I got elemental designs edead'2. If you don't know its suppoed to work like dynamate does to remove/reduce rattles from the bass the sub makes.

Im not done installing this stuff on my camaro but im just not sure if this stuff is really going to remove the rattles.

Who has installed sound deading and had great success and what did you cover with this material and which companys sound deading did you use?

Im not done installing this stuff on my camaro but im just not sure if this stuff is really going to remove the rattles.

Who has installed sound deading and had great success and what did you cover with this material and which companys sound deading did you use?


EDIT:Removed my response. Thought you were trying to stop the rattles from the dash that every fbod has, not the ones related to a sub.

check out Second Skin.

i'd like to do it to my durango but i just don't have the money to do it now. Second Skin is good **** and way cheaper than Dynamat.

my truck didn't rattle until i got the 12" in there. now it's pretty bad. that and the exhaust has made all sorts of new rattles happen. it sucks.

I have a single 10" pushed by around 400 watts, and Infinity speakers in the doors pushed by about 100 watts.

Before the eDead install, music could be heard easily from outside the car, and it sounded bad. Not rattley, but unclean. The rear hatch and spoiler area had a bad rattle.

It sounded fine inside.

After I installed the eDead I bought (v1SE), there is NO distortion coming from the door area (probably because less sound is making it through the door), and the hatch no longer rattles. Still nice and loud inside, and sounds good outside the car with the windows down. With the windows up in the dead of the night, I don't think you could hear the stereo at high volumes 20 feet away.

I wouldn't hesitate to do it all over again. I loved the results I got with 27 feet of v1SE. I did both outside and lower door skins, a 1 foot square at the front speaker hole, all four sides of the trunk "hole", and the entire upper hatch.

Strangely, due to doing the hatch "hole" area, my Magnaflow now seems way too quiet. ;)

I had B-QUiet Xtreme on my grand am 5-6 years ago and it definitly reduced the trunk vibrations/noises.

i need to dynamat a lot of things. my honda used to be pretty damn solid, until i got my system. now when i turn it like 1/2 of the way up my trunk rattles and flexes pretty badly, some brackets or something under the rear bumper rattles, doors rattle a bit, hood rattles a bit, front bumper rattles a tiny bit, some other crap on the chassis rattles a bit....it's so ghetto

well, the interior was sprayed with 12 cans of 3M ruberized undercoating, and all noise making rattles were fixed with foam weatherstripping. The doors are the only thing that got Dynamat, and even that is now getting sprayed this winter with 3M.

IMO the spray-on sound deadening is a much better solution than the stick-on. The entire purpose of sound deadening is to add mass to the panels such that it takes more energy to get them to vibrate. With dynamat, adhesion is not gaurenteed to the metal (I Have proof of this from when I removed the dynamat that was installed in my car; probably about a 50-60% adhesion percentage). With the Spray-on types the adhesion is 100%.

Personally dynamat or similar is good for some projects; but personally, I'll stick with the Spray-on/Foam combo.

Oh, and I've got a 2kWrms stereo in my car with 2 Kicker S12L7's; there were ZERO rattles nor was the music that loud until you opened a window/door.

well, the interior was sprayed with 12 cans of 3M ruberized undercoating, and all noise making rattles were fixed with foam weatherstripping. The doors are the only thing that got Dynamat, and even that is now getting sprayed this winter with 3M.

IMO the spray-on sound deadening is a much better solution than the stick-on. The entire purpose of sound deadening is to add mass to the panels such that it takes more energy to get them to vibrate. With dynamat, adhesion is not gaurenteed to the metal (I Have proof of this from when I removed the dynamat that was installed in my car; probably about a 50-60% adhesion percentage). With the Spray-on types the adhesion is 100%.

Personally dynamat or similar is good for some projects; but personally, I'll stick with the Spray-on/Foam combo.

Oh, and I've got a 2kWrms stereo in my car with 2 Kicker S12L7's; there were ZERO rattles nor was the music that loud until you opened a window/door.
did you have any problems with your car smelling like asphalt after spraying the 3m undercoating? i was going to do this, but then i thought that the smell from it would linger forever.

Im done with the hatch area and I still got little rattle from the trunk, but when I turn on the car and turn up the volume I can't hear the rattles. Its very little, compared to how it used to rattle before.

One thing I noticed is the bass sounds much cleaner inside and I don't have to turn up the volume at higher speeds to compisate for the wind noise.

I also found the gas lines on the driver underside were causing some horrable rattles that I thought were from the trunk, but it was the underside gas lines on the driver side, so I put some rubber peice of sheet and this solved the rattle.

One thing I noticed too, it seems like I can't hear the bass from the outside as loud as it was before the edead2 material. But I'am happy with the result. Now Im going to do my front doors cause now I know they can be improved.

Strangely, due to doing the hatch "hole" area, my Magnaflow now seems way too quiet. ;)


Are you talking about the hole on the inside of the hatch, on the driver side?
I took out the box vent, and plugged this hole up and im a little worried if anything bad could happen?

no smell whatso ever, the dynamat actually smells worse than the spray-on.

Are you talking about the hole on the inside of the hatch, on the driver side?
I took out the box vent, and plugged this hole up and im a little worried if anything bad could happen?


I was (poorly) referring to the trunk "well". If you stand at the back bumper, and lift your hatch, the deep well area that's about a foot deep and 18 by 30 or some odd inches.

I don't know what you mean by "I took out the box vent, and plugged this hole up". Are you talking about the air vent? I'd leave it there. Helps get you hatch closed, among other things.

I've got some Dynamatt in my car that was leftovers from other's installs but I'm not entirely sold on the stuff. Not for it's claimed benefits but the performance of the adhesive. I've added on to systems for friends that had their installs done by a "Professional" before and in almost every case the Dynamatt had started to peal off of the panels it was applied to. Since it was supposed to have been installed by a "Pro" I can only assume that they cleaned all the surfaces properly before applying it. I haven't had a chance to see how mine is doing though.

I've got some Dynamatt in my car that was leftovers from other's installs but I'm not entirely sold on the stuff. Not for it's claimed benefits but the performance of the adhesive. I've added on to systems for friends that had their installs done by a "Professional" before and in almost every case the Dynamatt had started to peal off of the panels it was applied to. Since it was supposed to have been installed by a "Pro" I can only assume that they cleaned all the surfaces properly before applying it. I haven't had a chance to see how mine is doing though.

This is exactly what I experienced first hand on my install which I did per Dynamat instructions. I had issues all over the place with adhesion; thus the reason I spent about 3 days scraping all the old stuff before masking and spraying on the 3M. The difference was well noticeable after the change, even with increased subwoofer power, there was still less ambient noise.

I've got some Dynamatt in my car that was leftovers from other's installs but I'm not entirely sold on the stuff. Not for it's claimed benefits but the performance of the adhesive. I've added on to systems for friends that had their installs done by a "Professional" before and in almost every case the Dynamatt had started to peal off of the panels it was applied to. Since it was supposed to have been installed by a "Pro" I can only assume that they cleaned all the surfaces properly before applying it. I haven't had a chance to see how mine is doing though.

Cleaning the surfaces isn't the only step to installing dampening mat.
One should also use a heat source (heat gun preferably or hair dryer at the least) and some sort means of pressure. The rollers they sell work well, but so does anything else that allows you to put good force onto the matting while it is still warm.

I just mention this to point out if the installer *only* cleaned the mating surface, then there is no wonder it peeled. Like a lot of things in life; you've got to read and follow the product instructions to get the best results.

Not a dig on you personally, just trying to point out that someone doing a half-way job should expect half-way results. :)

Yeah, I know that heat is also used. Come on give me a break, I typed that at 2 in the morning. :)

Does the spray or the mat quiet exhaust or engine noises from entering the cabin?

I was (poorly) referring to the trunk "well". If you stand at the back bumper, and lift your hatch, the deep well area that's about a foot deep and 18 by 30 or some odd inches.

I don't know what you mean by "I took out the box vent, and plugged this hole up". Are you talking about the air vent? I'd leave it there. Helps get you hatch closed, among other things.


Yeah im talking about the air vent, this is at the bottom, of where people usally put their stealth box. What other things is that air vent their for? Once it stops raining I will probably put it back on. But Doesn't the carpet itself trap any air leaveing or entering the air vent from the inside, since you have to remove the carpet to get to the air vent, doesn't the carpet itself act as a close barrier?

Does the spray or the mat quiet exhaust or engine noises from entering the cabin?

Yes. It'll help quiet anything if you put it in the trouble spots. Internal exhaust can be quieted by matting the trunk area, and one could mat the hood or firewall to quiet engine noise.

Yeah im talking about the air vent, this is at the bottom, of where people usally put their stealth box. What other things is that air vent their for? Once it stops raining I will probably put it back on. But Doesn't the carpet itself trap any air leaveing or entering the air vent from the inside, since you have to remove the carpet to get to the air vent, doesn't the carpet itself act as a close barrier?

I didn't need to pull mine out when I put my stealth in there. Might be a difference in car models between us, though. I think the major reason it was there was for air exchange, and to help the cabin pressure when closing the hatch. I don't know.

well, the interior was sprayed with 12 cans of 3M ruberized undercoating, and all noise making rattles were fixed with foam weatherstripping. The doors are the only thing that got Dynamat, and even that is now getting sprayed this winter with 3M.

IMO the spray-on sound deadening is a much better solution than the stick-on. The entire purpose of sound deadening is to add mass to the panels such that it takes more energy to get them to vibrate. With dynamat, adhesion is not gaurenteed to the metal (I Have proof of this from when I removed the dynamat that was installed in my car; probably about a 50-60% adhesion percentage). With the Spray-on types the adhesion is 100%.

Personally dynamat or similar is good for some projects; but personally, I'll stick with the Spray-on/Foam combo.

Oh, and I've got a 2kWrms stereo in my car with 2 Kicker S12L7's; there were ZERO rattles nor was the music that loud until you opened a window/door.

Are you talking about the undercoating spray or is it actually 'sound deadening'? Sounds alot like undercoating I used when replacing floor pans, etc although it is primarily to eliminate vib/road noise from underneath the car. Just curious because I would much rather use this than the stickons. Seems it would be much easier overall as well if doing many areas of the interior.

where exactly should it be applied for best results?

Yup, 3M ruberized Undercoating. Sound deadening itself unless it's a foam style; is just adding mass to change the resonant frequency of the parts that it's bonded too. Thus the weight of dynamat. The 3M RU works great in all the cars that I've used it in (I've sprayed 6 different cars), and they all sound great. It reduces ambient noise immencely.

As for rattles; foam weatherstripping between whatever is rattling is the best. I've never figured out how dynamat is supossed to stop rattles.

My last car was a Civic, and I am the only Civic owner ever to use Dynamat to stop a trunk rattle. I bought it to put it on the trunk lid to stop the trunk from rattling. It didn't work. I put it on the back of my license plate to stop that from rattling. But then I got it to actually do something. I put it on the trunk latch. As in I actually covered the loop of metal that the latch catches on with Dynamat. It would get torn up if I opened the trunk a lot but there wasn't really any storage in there anyway due to the amps & subs. So a big huge square of Dynamat, I only used about 2 square inches. And it KILLED the trunk lid rattle. But I never had any problem with adhesion, I just used my hand to press it on the trunk lid. But basically, Dynamat is just mass loading, so if you apply it to the car panels it will just kill road noise or ambient noise, but the only rattle prevention it does is if you actually apply it to the point of contact of whatever is rattling. Use the 3M stuff for mass loading, Dynamat is a rip off.

Abe

As for rattles; foam weatherstripping between whatever is rattling is the best. I've never figured out how dynamat is supossed to stop rattles.

I definitly learned this. All of my big rattles I had to put some type of rubber cushin to stop the rattles.

I had always thought thats what dynamate did; remove rattles- caused by the bass-(subs). But ed2 doesn't remove the rattles. But the inside bass sounds better just doesn't sound as loud from the outside.

Yup, 3M ruberized Undercoating. Sound deadening itself unless it's a foam style; is just adding mass to change the resonant frequency of the parts that it's bonded too. Thus the weight of dynamat. The 3M RU works great in all the cars that I've used it in (I've sprayed 6 different cars), and they all sound great. It reduces ambient noise immencely.



So are we talking at a level of being able to reduce inside the cabin, "Loudmouth+longtubes+ory" loud?? Towhere it is not annoying and you can hold a decent convo?

So are we talking at a level of being able to reduce inside the cabin, "Loudmouth+longtubes+ory" loud?? Towhere it is not annoying and you can hold a decent convo?

There are limits to sound deadening... To muffle all that noise would take a lot, but it will lessen it to a point.

I run Hooker LTs, custom X-pipe, twin Bullet Mufflers, then dump out the sides infront of the rear tires... and I can have conversation just fine.

Yup, 3M ruberized Undercoating. Sound deadening itself unless it's a foam style; is just adding mass to change the resonant frequency of the parts that it's bonded too. Thus the weight of dynamat. The 3M RU works great in all the cars that I've used it in (I've sprayed 6 different cars), and they all sound great. It reduces ambient noise immencely.

As for rattles; foam weatherstripping between whatever is rattling is the best. I've never figured out how dynamat is supossed to stop rattles.

How does the thickness compare to Dynmat-type deadeners?

I'm planning on deadening the entire floor when I install new carpeting and am trying to pick a good product to use. I'm wondering if the spray would make for an uneven layer which would feel weird under the carpet.

How does the thickness compare to Dynmat-type deadeners?

I'm wondering if the spray would make for an uneven layer which would feel weird under the carpet.

I too would like to know the answer to this.

How much weight does using the 3m ru add to a car, I would'nt think it would be alot?

Peel and seal, is the best and cheapest sound deading out there, home depo, or lowes have it 12 bucks a roll, read this article http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/, i have peel and seal in the entire back of my camaro, i have 2 12' alpine swx-1242d's each pumping out 1000 watts, before the peel and seal my car felt like i was on the west coast in an earthquake, after the install doesnt vibrate at all very happy with the stuff, does add a little weight but its worth it in the long run

As for the feel under the carpet... if you've ever removed your carpet, there's a thick layer of rubber backing already under the carpet. Any uneveness that you're going to get from the spray-on is going to be a LOT less than the lip of a dynamat style sheeting.

And when it comes to weight... that's the name of the game with deadening... adding Mass to the sheetmetal panels... thus adding weight to the panels to change how they vibrate.

Peel and seal, is the best and cheapest sound deading out there, home depo, or lowes have it 12 bucks a roll, read this article http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/, i have peel and seal in the entire back of my camaro, i have 2 12' alpine swx-1242d's each pumping out 1000 watts, before the peel and seal my car felt like i was on the west coast in an earthquake, after the install doesnt vibrate at all very happy with the stuff, does add a little weight but its worth it in the long run

Does that stuff leave a smell in the car?

Does that stuff leave a smell in the car?i installed it over the winter months, so i cant answer that as of now, when it gets warm out ill be curious. Even if i have a little smell which i doubt i will, its worth it in how quite the car is now, and dont forget carpet or panels cover everything so its not exposed

Bringing this thread back to life. Has anyone used a spray on like 3M and then used peel and seal or edead? Seems like that would be a good combo unless the adhesive mat wouldn't stick to the 3m. Just a thought. I am currently ripping out my interior and only want to mess with this once.

I don't think the adhesive will stick to the 3M. I did alot of research on temperature range and sound deadening quality and decided on "second skin". It came in 2'x3' sheets and was cheaper in bulk. You put it on with a roller. You have to wipe down the area with alcohol to make it stick. I used it on the floor pans, door, and hatch. Very pleased with the results. Car is much quieter, and when the doors close, it has a very satisfying thud sort of like a BMW or Acura. It does add quite a bit of weight to the car though.:)

yall need to use some closed cell foam on top of the dampening mat. the mat makes the metal more dense and stops it from resonating. the foam is a sound blocker, it will get rid of exhaust and road noice from coming in and keep your music from going out. it can be baught from elemental designs, second skin, raamaudio, or vorla foam. its cheap and works great.