We are trying to fire the car, and be cant seem to get the slave cylinder just right. I already broke one slave because the pedal was tight and i pushed it harder, then fluid came out the end. So I put a new one in, bled it right and followed the book. Installed it, and its just as hard to push the pedal down as it was earlier, so naturally i dont want to push it any harder and break another one. Let me know if you know what to do.... I want to start the damn thing in the next hour!

 

I was told that the clutch and master cylinder came as an assembly and you could not set it up yourself because Its pre-bled. I took my slave off once before so I could change my clutch, and when I put it back up and installed the clutch, the piston had pushed itself back out and built up pressure from sitting there. I bolted the slave back up and pushed the pedal and it broke. Try the search feature.

Also, someone put this thread in the drivetrain section.

 

Yea thanks, but I'll teach you a little bit first. Iits much easier to search than it is to post a new question, I've already done that. Dont move the thread either, it will get no response in the drivetrain section. Please wait until next week to move it.

 

If you just won't to fire the car up to see how it runs leave the slave cylinder hanging beside the transmission and press the clutch in so it will hit the safety switch. I did this when I put my new motor and trans in my car and had no problem cranking the car. I also broke a rod on my slave cylinder trying to install it, so I just gave up since that was the only thing left and had someone else fix it the next day while I was at work so I could drive it and quit working on it.

 

Verify you have the clutch fork installed properly on the throw out bearing. Did you remember to install the spacer sleeve (1.5" metal piece) over the two studs before mounting the slave cylinder?

 

Metal piece is there. As far as the fork, I have the same problem I had when it wasnt hook up to the fork.

 

It appears that something is very wrong in your setup. Your Slave cylinder should not be freezing up like that at all. What kind of clutch did you install, and what is the alignment of your clutch fork like? If you manually push the slave cylinder rod in does it retract into the housing all the way, or does it feel liek there is some restriction? If everything else is good, I'm betting the alignment on the clutch fork is off If your your rod is frozen in position and it's not that... there may be contamination in your lines.

A good trick to make sure everything is lined up and escape the guess work is pull the spacer off the tranny bell back some so you can see the slave clinder rod contact the clutch fork first, then just tighten everything down in place with the nuts.


"Metal piece is there. As far as the fork, I have the same problem I had when it wasnt hook up to the fork. "

Did you push the pedal down with the slave hanging freely, and not installed?

 

Loosen the line going to the slave cyl or the bleader(if it has one) it will come back.Ya may have to loosen it at the clutch master cyl by the firewall.If it's out by pressure that will fix it.

 

heat: no, we didn't push the pedal with the slave hanging loose. all we did with the cylinder loose was to attempt to bleed it. after we worked the air bubbles out of the system, we tried to start the car, and the pedal would push in a maximum of about 1 inch. tim did comment that the pushrod on the slave was getting more difficult to manipulate while bleeding the system.

the slave cylinder for tim's 94 is totally different from the cylinder that i'm familiar with, which would be the clutch setup in my 84 sport coupe. my 84's slave cylinder has a bleeder right on the body of the cylinder, which made bleeding the system a snap.

i'm fairly confused as well. any other ideas anyone? thanks in advance!

 

What methods were you using to bleed the hydraulic system?

Did you just replace the slave cylinder... or did you by a completely new system?

 

as much as you have spent on 2 slave cylinders and the time installing and bleeding them, you can get the whole package of slave and master pre-bled. i did that route instead of bleeding an older setup when i switched an iroc-z to a t56 from a a4

 

I'm confussed as to what you have done.
I have removed and installed my slave many times with no problem. How I check to make sure everything is right is to make sure the metal adapter is on the studs of the bell housing then the slave cylinder and the tab for the hydraulic line over one of the studs then install the nuts and engage all threads but dont run them down. From there, I pull the adapter back from the clutch housing to make sure the push rod is sitting in the shift fork. If things look crooked, something is not right or if the push rod does not contact the shift fork, most likely the fork is not engaged in the throw out bearing and the slave will overtravel and never disengage the clutch. From there, you should be able to push the slave cylinder up to the clutch housing and adapter then run the nuts down.

Hope you can get this figured out. Good luck.

 

Sorry.... but it belongs in "Drivetrain".... that's why we have multiple forums.

You will have a problem with getting answers there, because you don't list any info on your car - year, engine, etc. I know you posted it here in "LT1 Engine Tech", so I'll add that info here so people know what setup you are talking about.

Fred

 

I cant get the pushrod on the cylinder to travel at all is my problem. Whether it is connected to the tranny or not. It traveled when I was bleeding it but that was it. I stroked it back and forth as per the manual, until no more bubbles came out of the reservoir.

 

If the slave cylinder is functioning properly when you push it in and out...and the Master cylinder is not engaging... the nit sounds like your Master cylinder has gone bad. I would purchase a new one off ebay.

A good way to check and make sure it's the master is by getting a block of wood, and two long bolts.... then screw the slave cylinder down so ithe rod has retracting itself intp the housing quite a bit. Then once that is done... take your hand and push the master cylinder rod in.... as if you were the pedal... and see if it retracts.... if it doesn't and it's stuck... it is officially gone my friend.