The master cylinder is the black piece that is bolted to the tranny correct? Thats fine, i just bought a new one from the store after I blew my old one out with the same problem.

 

The master cyl is on the firewall hooked to the clutch pedal.
The slave cyl is at the clutch.

 

I had this problem once before. 1) I did not have the clutch fork aligned correctly. It was off the ball stud and not engaged on the T. O. Bearing .
2) Other issue is the master cyl was over filled and I had the cap on it so the slave cyl would not compress. For what its worth....

 

Ok Update:

Would not having the slave cylinder prevent the motor from turning over if the car was out of gear?

Now back to the subject. I think the clutch fork isnt lined up properly, the area that the slave cylinder piston goes into doesnt line up with the studs for the cylinder. I dont know if that makes sense, but I'll get a picture to explain. I read that i should hand crank the motor until it seats properly, but I tried that without any differences. It will get seated properly (or so it feels) but then fall back.

Any more ideas anyone?

 

You lost me entirely.


All that's required of you to align the clutch fork is push it onto the throw out bearing. If your turning the Engine manually to slip the fork into place I doubt it will work, that's not the proper way to align the fork. But I Think I understand what your saying. The Clutch fork isn't lining up with the groves on the T/O Bearing. So you want to sping the Flyweel and assembly till it lines up into place than slip it in. Seems like somehting is very wrong. It should not be that hard at all to slip the fork into place. Is the fork freely moving about the pivot T when you push it? To me it sounds like your not pushing the Fork into place.

 

Its doesnt seem hard to get it to stay in place, it seems to fall out of place is my concern. These pictures should help me explain.

http://youngstownstreets.com/files/in.gif
The first here is a picture of where I line the fork up prior to installing the slave cylinder.

http://youngstownstreets.com/files/out.gif
The second here is a picture of after I take the slave cylinder back off. You can see how the fork has "slipped" out of alignment.


I'm pretty sure I just need to get this alignment thing straightened around. There isnt anything else I have to align besides the fork part onto the TO Bearing right?

 

Grrr.....

I just found this in an old post:

http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/fork.jpg

Theres a bolt that holds the fork in place? Well I'm pretty sure there wasnt one of those when I took the tranny out, and I'm postive there wasnt a bolt holding it in when I put it back in. Is this part of my problem? Or is it not necessary and its my lucky day (dont have to take the tranny back off)???

 

I was right... you aren't sliding it on to the pivot T. That bolt that you took a picture of isn't supposed to be removed from the tranny unless you need to change it. THe fork slides back and forth. You may have either lossend the bolt up to where the for is un able to slide back over it... or you may have just entirely not have the fork aligned properly. Best fix is to take the Tranny to bell ousing bolts off... slide the transmission back, and shine a flashlight int there to see the position of the fork on the Pivot T. If that seems like allot try to shine a flash light through the Slave clyinder housing area and see if you can spot the bolt from there. Your Clutch for just isn't engaged on the pivot.

 

Let me correct myself..... That bolt is there.

Check this picture out again:

Picture #1: http://youngstownstreets.com/files/in.gif

Should the fork be positioned any higher than that? The problem is, even with it right there, I takes no effort to knock it back out to where it is in the second picture here:

Picture #2: http://youngstownstreets.com/files/out.gif

Maybe I just need to keep fighting with it and seeing what happens. But it seems no matter how well I "think" I have it engaged onto the T/O bearing, I only have to bump it for it to fall off into the position in the second picture.

 

BAAAAAAZIIIIIIIIIIIINGGGG!!!

It finally clicked right in, and is seated another 1/2" further than it is in Picture #1. Now if I can just get this damn slave clyinder bled correctly.

 

When I had to get a new slave cylinder, i was told that it came with the master cylinder as a pre-bled assembly from the factory. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I just don't want this guy to waste his time

 

Picture 1 is exactly how it should look when fully locked in. Job well done.

My only question is are you tackling this dead on.. or do you have a reference manual to aid you?

 

This reminds me of my early frustrating days working on my new LT1. At first it was a heartache, but when you get used to doing things, its no biggie. Just accept the fact that stuff is going to constantly break.

 

I am using a Haynes manual, but its really not much help. Yes, you can buy just the slave clyinder and bleed it yourself. $45 special order at Advanced Auto.

 

A Haynes Mistake... yep... definantly.

I bent my brows the first couple of times I thumbed through thier manual also. They skim over the important parts.

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