Looking hard at the Alky/water kits out there, Don't have the $$$ for intercooler or aftercooler....

Pro's & Con's of the alky/water injection
What kinda of power are you making
How much boost did you add
how much timing did you add
At what amount of boost are you bring in the alky/water
how long is it lasting..

 

I'm running an Alkycontrol progressive setup with approx 14psi from the pullied s-trim, a little over 10:1 compression, and 93 oct. I get some HI AITs (210+) and some minor detonation (as evidenced by my plugs) at WOT without the alky injection. I don't know how much the alky injection is bringing down the AIT's since my AIT sensor is inline before the alky nozzle, but it's plenty to eliminate the detonation. From what I've read alky injection can drop the temps 50-60 deg.

I bring the kit on at 3psi. The kit has an adjustable intial hit and ramp, but it's working fine for me with the standard presets.

There's a low level light that comes with my kit, but the tank has never been low enough to set the light off. I can make 2-3 passes and barely notice a level change in the tank. I imagine if you were going to the track and planned on racing all day, you might want to bring an extra gallon, but for weekend street duty, I usually just top it off, and I've yet to add more than 1/3 gallon, the following weekend.

The one drawback I see is that there's no cooling benifits at vacuum, like you see with an intercooler. I still see some high AITs even at vacuum (150-170), during normal cruising situations. I'm not comfortable with that, and have decided to install an FMIC to help out.

 

Decent bar and plate intercoolers can be had on ebay for less than 400$.... most alky kits go for between 200-500$, so if you can afford a good alky kit, a good intercooler should be in the same pricerange IMO. Just a thought....

 

713rwhp (without the N2O) and no intercooler. Kit from www. kennedysdynotune.com

Rich

 

What IAT are you seeing then what are they with the alky/water
what mix are you runing

Rich care to talk about your set up....

 

5.0This, you forgot about piping, clamps, hoses, and fab work.

I'm using an AlkyControl progressive kit also. Mine comes in at about 7psi and I could run about 13-14psi without the FMIC but I tend to go through a lot of meth that way. I made more power by using the FMIC and less meth obviously but meth alone is totally possible. If I had to choose just one though I'd get the FMIC.

I never dyno'd the truck after the FMIC and retune but I ran 110mph @ 5250lbs so that should put me over 500rwhp on this 5.3L.

 

Not necessarily - you can get the OBX FMIC for $300 shipped. If you can weld or have a friend who's willing to do it for little or free, then the piping, clamps, and couplers are definitely doable for another $200.00

 

Where are you geting the piping..3"....
How big is the obx or how big or part number do we need
how much down time
to what level of power is the obx good for

 

back to the alky...
how much are your IAT droping....

 

I've seen a bar and plate unit that had a core size of 24x12x4, which is huge. Those seem to go for around 250$, and would support a ton of power.

what speedmiser said. I figured high for the cooler itself, and clamps and good silicone connectors on ebay arent too expensive either.

 

As far as the parts that make hp: ported AFR 195's, ~8:1CR, mondo fuel system with twin Aeromotive pumps, custom fuel rails, 90lb/h injectors, custom cam. IAT's under full boost (20psi) at the end of a 1/4m pass are in the 150 degree range.

Rich

 

did you guys use the washerfluid bottle for your setup? if so can you show me pictures and info on how to install it. need directions and info on how to remove the washerfluid bottle also. thanks

 

Hope so http://home.koping.net/u3243a/tillfalliga/ic.jpg
IAT this season widh ATI twin highflow was 105 at start and 172 11sec later so it cant be worse...

 

I use ww wiper fluid for the time being. I'll probably switch to straight alky down the road when I start spraying the car again.

I used the ww tank and mounted the pump on a plate which I bolted to the bumper mount. Nothing is set in stone on the mounting or the tank though - I just figured it would make a clean install, and I'd been planing on removing the front bumper anyway. I ended up cutting a window in the front of the stock tank, then sealing it back up with a heavy dose of plastic epoxy. If you want to use the stock ww tank, you do have to pull the nose piece off the car to get to it. Once the nose is off there are some platic push pins that need to be removed.

Here's a pic: pump and tank
Here's the nozzle placement before I ran the hose to the pump: nozzle

Looking at Lisa's pic, my pump will definitely need to be moved, or maybe turned sideways, when I install the FMIC.

Lisa, that's an OBX FMIC, right????

 

You can do an a2a intercooler setup for like $1,000.

All the alky setups I looked at were like $400.

I've seen my Griffin a2a sell for as little as $450 in GP's. My piping was like less than $150 for the raw stock, and $30 for the t clamps. I have probably $200-250 in labor for welding the pipes and mounting the intercooler. Maybe a bit more. But you can do do the whole setup for $1000.

I'm making 738rwhp with 110L and IAT's of 100F after a dyno pull. I could do 650rwhp on 93 pump gas.