Unfortunately I have to sell my vette. I've got a new baby on the way and can't afford both.

1992 Corvette, red, grey interior, 6 speed, 118k on the car, engine and tranny have about 12k on them.

Engine is an LT1 based 383, 4 bolt main orginal in the vette
Bored .030 over, decked, squared, and align honed
SCAT 9000 series cast crank, 3.75" stroke
Eagle, 6 inch, 4340 forged H beam rods
Probe thick crown N20 pistons, forged
Stock heads professionally ported, milled .010, 2.00/1.54 valves
Port matched intake
Edelbrock shorty headers
Comp cam custom grind, .565/.576, 232/242, 114 LS
Combination motorsports 600 series valve springs
LT4 full roller rockers
Clevite bearings
Internal ZERO balance
Magnaflow catback
30 lb. SVO injectors
Grip 9 clutch
B&M Ripper shifter

Car comes with NOS inline fuel pump.

The engine is set-up to run a 250 shot of N20. The top ring has an extra .005 gap for heat expansion when using nitrous, the 2nd ring has .003. The main bearings have an extra .002 of clearance to provide a thicker cushion of oil, to cushion the bottom end for a big N20 hit. Because of that extra clearance, you'll want to use atleast a 40 weight oil.

With the LT4 hotcam, the car made 370 RWHP and 383 RWTQ. With a 100 shot of N20 the car made 475 RWHP, and 620 RWTQ. The TQ wasn't a torque spike at the beginning of the hit, it made peak torque at about 4k. I have since upgraded to the larger cam, and had planned to install long tube headers. With the cam and headers, the car should have no problem making 400 RWHP and 400 RWTQ NA. Unfortunately when I installed the larger cam and stiffer valve springs I collapsed some lifters. Comp cams "R" lifters would be the logical replacement, and cost $210 from combination motor sports. If you are serious about the car, let me know and we can work something out with the lifters. I would fix it, but I am butt broke and can't afford it right now.

The car has 2 other flaws. The oil pan is tweaked, and has a slight leak from the front. I have tried replacing the gasket, but the pan is tweaked beyond repair. A new pan from GM is about $175, or a 7 qt. Canton road race pan is about $325. Again, let me know if you are serious, and we can work something out. The 2nd flaw is the balancer hub. Its slips on the crank. A new hub is about $75 from GM, but will most likely begin to slip after a few thousand miles. The best thing to do would be to install a keyed hub from one of the blower companies, or have the current hub machined to accept a key. As always, if you are serious, lemme know and we'll work something out.

E-mail me if you have any questions, want to talk, or want to see dyno graphs, etc... joshkinzey@symm.net

Looking for $11,750 depending on what you want to do with the three problems.