need some definite 100% sure oiling system answers

Alright. Did a search and cant find a definite answer for all my problems. Setup is an eagle 4340 3.75 crank, eagle hbeams with L19 (7/16") bolts (NICE).

Also it has Eagle 4bolt splayed caps ($78...cant figure out why no one uses them, they look damn nice to me), and ARP 350 main studs.

It will have stock pump (or melling) stock pressure, stock volume, stock pickup welded. I would like to use the stock pan/windage tray, or stock pan/aftermarket tray, or at the very most a 350 pan (not LT1 specific..ie canton)/aftermarket tray.

1. Pan will not totall clear caps. I dont think its a big deal since it will almost sit flat with the rail and the gasket should be enough of a buffer for it to seal just fine, but opinions anyway.

2. Windage tray. Havent tested it with the rotating assembly yet, but hear they dont clear. Is it possible to clearance it for the longer stroke? If not can I just buy an aftermarket tray that will fit with the studs and clear the stroke?

Does anyone see any other problems I may run into with this setup, or any reason for me to get a canton pan, it will not be road raced at all. Hopefully close to 500rw NA and 200+ shot of juice on top every once in a while.

Anyone think I should upgrade pumps/pressure/volume. Dont think so myself, but thought id ask just incase?

I have come to accept that the Canton pan is the easiest way to go, less work, no heating and beating the pan nor do you have to trim the dam windage tray. Plus the oil level sensor will fit in there too. Windage tray will need to be spaced away from the rotating assembly and you also have to trim parts if the rods hit it.

The only thing I would like to see on the Canton pan is a winage pouch to catch the oil rather than the straight sides of the pan.

Get the gasket, then clean the **** out of the pan then you are going to have to heat and beat the pan to fit around the rods.

The Canton pan is not the cheapest way to go but it is the easiest and probably most effective way to go.

Bret

Guess I didnt realize there was that much work involved in retaining the stock pan.

Well, if Im not worried about keeping the oil level sender...is there another pan that will work the same as the Canton for a little less $ maybe? With the baffles and tray? Just didnt budget a pan into this motor and really didnt want to, but looks like I might have/want to now.

Now a related question to the pan. Is cantons pickup required with this pan? And the pickup will work just fine with a stock or melling oem pump right?

Any preference for melling or oem?

I'm using the Milodon #30909 on my 383 stroker. It's not a whole lot cheaper than the Canton, but it's a little better. Unfortunately, I don't know if it will work with the stock K-member as I have a BMR tubular one. Here's what Jeg's says about it:

697-30909
SB-Chevy Pan, 1986-Up, Right Hand Dipstick
Using the same design as the 697-30900, this ''Stroker'' version will accommodate a 4'' stroke with steel Eagle style rods. The pan front is deeper to allow the use of a full-length louvered style windage tray fastened in the pan, yet will fit stock crossmember cars without modification and allows the use of stock style starter and oil filter. Use oil pump pickup P/N 697-18301 with Melling M99HV oil pump, oil pump pickup P/N 697-18314 with Melling M55HV oil pump,
Oil pump shaft P/N 697-23050,
Oil pan gasket P/N 697-40100,
Rear pan baffle P/N 697-32500,
Dipstick P/N 697-22005.

Here's a picture. The picture shows the older style pan with the dipstick on the left side, but rest assured, they make one just like it for the late model one piece rear main seal, right hand dipstick block.

http://home.comcast.net/~mlgracing/milodonoilpan.bmp

Actually, I just noticed from your sig. that you have the BMR K-member. This pan should work for you. I did install an oil filter relocation kit. It wasn't absolutely necessary for clearance, but with my Dynatech headers, the only way to get the oil filter out after you loosened it was to turn it on it side and pour most of the oil right on the headers. As I said, it's not a whole lot cheaper than the Canton ($256 from Jeg's) but it's a little less.

I was just about to ask about that pan. I was going to order it today and make sure it fits around the headers and everything clears fine before I get the block machined just so i have a pan lined up to button the shortblock up. Glad to see someone else is using it. You say you have it on there now? Or are getting it? Flatlanderracing.com has the 86up pan for the same price as the pre 86 pan $209, not sure why they charge more for the same exact pan with the dipstick on the other side.

Originally posted by jonaddis84
You say you have it on there now?

It's been on my car for over a year now with no problems.