I have a 95 Z28 and need a shop to install a cam,RR,lifters,all parts necessary to do the job. What is everyone paying for parts and labor? Thanks for the info.

 

Check out this site to see how to install a cam. It takes a long time and varies on experience.

Plan on 2-3 days if you're doing it the first time. Shave a few hours the next time.

If you are paying someone, pay for 16-20 hours at $40-$60 per hour. It isn't cheap.

It is also a good time to upgrade your opti, front seals for your water pump and crank... and get your heads ported to match your new cam.

 

I have heard lots of good things about Don Lee Auto. Some of my friends in my car club had some work done and they are very happy with the work. You can check out Don Lee Auto @ www.donleeauto.com. Hope that helps you out.

 

Yep... the approximate price there is $800-$900. It is a lot of work.

818 Camaros, what kind of cam are you installing? Remember, it is the Dynamic Compression Ratio that you are after. The Static Compression Ratio is nice but not nearly as indicative of power as the DCR. I've built a few engines and can help you figure this out before you get in there.

What kind of Cold Air Induction?
What is the diameter of tubing on the header?
Any cat-back?
Will you be using 1.5 or 1.6 RRs?
160, 180, or 195 Thermostat?

You can re-use your roller lifters, no need to change those unless you starved your engine of oil. Flat tappet lifters definately.

Is smog a concern?
Will it be for drag, N2O, road racing, supercharging, etc...?

 

I want to use the CC 306 cam, smog is not a concern.
I have A K&N CAI
Jet Hotlong tubes flowmaster exhaust with the SS CME tips
160 thermostat. I would like to get 1.6 RR,lifters etc. So I don't have to replace anything else. I bought a six speed conversion to put in. I really want to get into road racing, I've never been to the track.

 

Sounds like you've been building up for this. You have a great foundation for that cam. I'll be leaving work shortly but I'll handle this tomorrow. See ya.

Greg

 

For that cam, you are going to need some porting done to your heads. It won't run right in the stock condition... too small. First, your overlap will be at 74, the max for smog is 53. Since that is a not a concern I won't focus on that. To get the overlap to work to your advantage, you'll need to port the heads and get some swirl polished valves to increase the low lift flow numbers. Contact Skaradom or Lloyd Eliot for good porting.

Next, building an engine requires special attention to the Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) not just the Static Compression Ratio (SCR) which is the most publicized method. Stock SCR on an LT1 is 10.57:1. With that said, the DCR is critical and should be between 7.5 and 8.5. The closer you are to 8.5 the more on the racing edge you will be (temps can't go over 170*F, race fuel likely, etc.) The ideal for a street monster is 8.25, but I like to keep it sweeter at 8.25-8.35. If you just replace the cam and do nothing else, your DCR will be 7.8671... pretty low and you will not be using the cam to it's potential. You'll notice some gain but it is way too low. Here's how you bring it up to where you need it.

The CC306 cam timing is:
37 BTDC
73 ABDC
90 BBDC
37 ATDC
... pretty wicked. You'll smell raw fuel sitting at the signal so be sure to have your computer re-programmed.

The following data is given:
Crank - 3.48
Rod - 5.7
Bore - 4"
Head CC - 54

1) Here's the plan, get your cylinder heads ported and polished, give the cam specs to the porter so he can match the heads to your cam.
2) Order Felpro Head Gaskets with a thickness of 0.039! That is critical... do not get the stock replacements because they are 0.049.... that will bring your DCR up to 8.0739 which is better but not where we want it.
3) Request that the porter mill the heads 0.012. That will now bring your DCR to 8.3229 which is just about PERFECT!

Your quench will go from the stock 0.074 to 0.052 which is better. You want to stay above 0.035 and close to 0.045 to reduce detonation. 0.052 will clear you of that.

Also, the porter will smooth the sharp edges in the combustion chamber which is great to reduce the chance of detonation. This will give you a Static Compression Ratio of 11.2:1.

With 1.6RRs, swirl polished/undercut valves, and good porting... you'll have a better set up than most guys on this board who just install the cam.

This will also compliment your current CAI and Exhaust set-up.

This set up is also built on the premise that you will not be touching your bottom end... stock bottom end. You will want to upgrade your timing chain to an LT4 Extreme Duty to handle the power you're putting down. A stock chain will be at its limit. A used chain will not last long.

Greg
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