If I ran a 8.00 before, what do you think I can run now?

If I ran a 8.008@89.63 MPH with a 1.97 60 ft and my highest MPH was 90.03 without the nitrous with the setup in my signature what do you think I can run when I get my new setup done? It will be a 355, TRW Forged Pistons, Ported Heads with Manley 2.00/1.56 Valves, Ported Intake, CC306, 11:1 Compression, Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Hooker Longtubes, Mufflex Y Pipe, CSI Electric Water Pump, PCMFORLESS.com Programming, Moser 12 Bolt with 4.10's, Spohn Torque Arm, ET Streets and a Nitrous Xpress 200 Shot?

What do you think it will run without the nitrous? It was good weather when I ran the 8.008 but I had stock programming and was running very rich and I couldnt make it across the line without having to shift right before the line.

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1980 Camaro Z28 Sikkens 3 Stage Blue and Purple

1994 Camaro Z28 Teal M6
Ported Heads, LT4 Hot Cam and Springs, 1.6 RR's, Mac Headers and Offroad Y Pipe, Flowmaster Catback, Resonators, Flowtech Cutout, NX 150 Horsepower Shot of Nitrous, NX Bottle Heater, NX Remote Bottle Opener, NOS Purge, KB DD SFCs, BMR STB, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, Redline Water Wetter and Synthetic Diff. Fluid, McLeod Dual Performance Clutch, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 1LE Bellow, Holley 58mm Throttle Body, TB Coolant Bypass, Metco Valve Cover Breather, LPW Rearend Support Cover, Strange 3.73s, Eaton Posi, TA Stud Kit, Lakewood LCAs and Adjustable Panhard Rod, LS1 Driveshaft, March Underdrive Pullies, MSD 6AL, MSD Window Switch, MSD Blaster Coil, NGK TR6's, Mobil 1 Synthetic, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Intrax Lowering Springs, BFGoodRich Comp TAs 255/50/16, Nitto Drag Radials 245/50/16, AVS Blackouts on the back.

339 RWHP Corrected with two broke rings

465 RWHP Corrected on the nitrous with the clutch slipping bad and two broke rings

www.geocities.com/speeds8erm1

It is almost impossible to say for sure, it would be easier to predict your 1/4 mile time since your 1/8th mile depends a lot on traction and a good launch right from the start, are you spinning to much on the Nitto's, you may want some real slicks but your mph will suffer. I would guess in the low 7.3xx's at around 97+mph with the added nitrous. It all depends on how good the launch is. I was a bit confused though, were you running that time with bad piston rings? What did you mean about the corrected power below your sig?

I ran the 8.008 with the setup in my signature without the nitrous. I want to know what you think I can run with the new setup that I listed. With and without the nitrous. I wasnt spinning the Nitto's on that run either, I had to slip the hell out of the clutch to keep from spinning. I will have ET Streets now. The dyno numbers and track times from before are two different things. I got my track times before I dynoed with the cracked pistons.

Depends on if the rear grenades when you hook up...

I too am guessing 7.2-7.4 with traction.. With juice I have no clue.

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'94 Black Z28, 383, 700R4
1/8 ET: 7.49
1/4 ET: 11.86
1/4 MPH: 112
http://www.downtime.cz28.com.index.html (http://www.downtime.cz28.com/index.html)

I think its going to be a little quicker just my .02cents

I ran a 7.49 @ 91 w/ a 1.64 60ft
with a 150 dry shot and the usual bolt-ons (stock cam & heads) all on a stock long block, valve covers have never been off.

Now my new motor is similar to yours
355c.i, 11.1,6" rod, Ported LT-1 heads 2.02 1.60 valves, ported intake, 1.6 R.R's, Comp nitrous cam 224/236 536/555 114lsa, Hooker LT's, Mufflex 3" Y pipe, Mufflex 4", 58TB, 30#inj, Dry 150 shot
TH-350 with a JW 3500 converter

My goal right now is a 6.90's i think i can get there just like you.

I think the old setup with ET Streets would have gotten you 7.6-7.7 1/8 mile times.
As far as the new setup, geesh hard to say until you get it dialed in and get some track times. Probably, 7.3 if you don't snap something in the driveline and you get traction,
Fred

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1994 Z28, A4,
BEST 1/4 12.413@109.55
BEST 1/4 MPH 110.49
BEST 60' 1.668
BEST 1/8 7.884@86.35
BEST 1/8 mph 86.77
Race Weight 3600lbs
DYNO: 324 RWHP,310 RWTQ

Thanks for the help guys! I also have a McLeod Street Twin Clutch. I think the weak link in the drivetrain is going to be the LS1 Driveshaft or the transmission. The transmission has had a rough life, so I think it might not be up to it but after I get it rebuilt or get another one, I dont think it will be a problem. The heads also have more work than the ones that were on here before. The other heads were pretty mild.

tnthub, I hope the rearend dosent break, it's a Moser 12 Bolt with 33 Spline Axles, Upgraded Posi and Moser Rearend Support Cover. http://web.camaross.com/bb/smile.gif It can still happen though, especially with me driving. http://web.camaross.com/bb/smile.gif

onebad96T/A, your new setup is very similiar to mine. The biggest difference is in the cam. How much headwork do you have done? Good luck with your car and your goals! I think you can get a 6.9 with no problem.

Fred94LT1, I know it's hard to say until I get it going but I know I cant wait to get back out there because the car hasnt ran in over a year! Hopefully the car will hook good on the ET Streets, I think the lowering springs might be hurting the car more than other lowering springs would because the car dosent have the engine in it and the frontend is still sitting low, like barely any different. I have heard of people with other springs not having this problem.