I'm trying to install some ARP studs in my car, they're a little longer than stock. In the rear, I already grinded down the caliper mounting plate a little to get the bolts in, but can't pound them home. The knurled end seems almost too big (?). Do I have to drill out the holes to a larger size or what?? How hard is it to slip the axle shafts out?

 

Are you using part number 100-7708? If so they are 0.509
stock is.0500. You have to grind the inside holes a bit. i used a C clamp and large socket to push them out.

 

Now thats a good idea. Yea, I don't have my good set of drill bits on me now, so I didn't wanna just drill it out with anything. I think I'll try the c-clamp method. Thanks.

 

Do NOT grind the knurl or drill out the bolt holes. The whole purpose of the knurl is to firmly hold the bolts in place. Do NOT pound anything - not good for the bearings.

You insert the bolt in the hole from the back, put a big washer over the end where it stick thru the hub, put a little anti-sieze on the nut and the threads, put an old acorn lug nut on the stud backwards (flat side against the washer), then use an air impact wrench on the lug nut to pull the stud knurl into the hole.

 

I was trying that technique but it seemed like the studs were just too big to pull through. I tried the c-clamp method quickly and it still seems like the holes need to be enlarged slightly.

 

dosent the exciter ring get in the way, im going to do this also but i think i need to slide my axles out so i can get the exciter ring pressed of and then i will put new studs on, i have c clip eliminated so pulling axle isnt that big o deal

 

i just installed 1 set of these an hour or so ago... I figured I'd chime in and give my experences for those that search (like i did, hehe)

the ARP 100-7708 12mm x 1.5" studs WILL NOT GO IN without some work...

What we did, and this is explained in ultra simple steps cause I'm probably one of the most beginer mech's on here

---------
1) jack up car and take wheel off
2) take off brake caliper and rotor
3) hammer out stock wheel studs
4) un-bolt the brake caliper mounting bracket... Its not possible to take this off without removing the axels (or so it seems) but with it unbolted, its easy to move it around and pivot/angle it
5) we put the new studs in at the 12 o'clock position, with the caliper mounting bracket lined up at the normal 8 o'clock position (hope this makes sense?), but with the bracket unbolted, we were able to angle it in such a way that it was 'slanted' towards the hub. This meant we only had the very small lip of the stud to clear the bracket. We used a hammer and tapped it past the bracket. Not much force was needed at all, and I really doubt any damage was done.

And that was it! Once we had the bracket unbolted, each stud only took around 10-20 seconds to put in. Quite easy really.

as a note, before we unbolted the bracket, we tried every angle to get the new longer studs in, impossible... we tried to grind down the caliper bracket but as its incredibly strong, it wasn't working well, and we decided to try something else, which was unbolt the bracket all together to allow us to manuver it around, which worked perfectly!!

Hope this helps! if anyone has any questions, by all means send me a message!

jeff

<Note i posted this same info in several threads in case someone is looking and only finds one or the other>

 

Hmmm, yea I just ending up grinding down either the caliper mounting bracket or the axle housing. At about 12 o'clock, I grinded it down enough to slip the studs in.
Oh yea, I also did have to enlarge the holes just slightly. I think a 1/2" bit did it.