First....my car has 142k miles and still has the original window motors in it...Im shocked they still work but DAMN the drivers side is weak and overheats a lot if I dont help the window up by hand. Anyone got any suggestions or know of any upgrades for longer lasting and stronger motors or should I just go ahead and buy a set of GM replacements off Ebay for like 40 bucks each?

2nd....I know the LT1 radiator coolant level sensor is an issue on 93-97 models and my light stays on all pretty much all the time now so I was wondering if cleaning the sensor would restore it for any length of time or should I just buy a new one for 40 bucks at Autozone or Oreilly?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Jeff

 

just take the coolant sensor out and zip tie it up and the light will go off if you go that route...if you actually want it to work then go the autozone way of course..and no cleaning it dosnt help i tried a couple of times

 

Not sure if this is your problem, but could be worth a try:

Taken from another one of my posts...

for the last few months...I’ve had what everyone else seems to experience with their power windows. they get slower and slower until they don’t work anymore. I was having this problem with my driver side window. it wouldn't go down all the way, and wouldn't go up all the way. the passenger side is running pretty slowly, but it still goes all the way up and down. to get to the point: me, being the cheap *** that I am, I didn't want to pay for a new motor if I didn't have to. first, I just made sure all the mechanisms were lubed. they were, and it didn't fix the problem. then, I thought there might be a problem with some of the circuitry. I took off the door panel so I could unplug the motor and test the voltage going straight into the motor. this was good, so the circuitry beyond that was ok. after looking at the repair manual, I found that the electronic circuit breaker (ecb) is located in the motor. this is what figures out when the motor should stop, even if the switch is still on. I took the motor out of the door and opened it up. this is where the fun began. in the same plastic piece that hold the brushes, there is a strip of metal (sorry that I don’t have pictures at the current time, but I’ll probably have to do this again soon for the passenger windows). this is the ecb. when the motor stops (such as being rolled down all the way), it draws more current, heating the strip up. as the as the strip heats up, it's resistance increases, therefore dropping the voltage going to the window. at room temperature, the resistance across that piece was already around 1 ohm. assuming the motor was drawing 5 amps, that means the motor was only getting 7 volts just for normal operation. so, to fix this I took just took a piece of wire and soldered it to the two contacts on either side of the metal strip to allow the current to pass through the wire instead of metal strip. this wasn't too complicated until it was time to put it back together. I was having a hard time keeping the brushes in the holder while pushing the plastic housing back on the motor. so, I took the smallest drill bit I had (I can get a size if anyone is actually going to do this) and drilled a tiny hold through each holder. this allowed me to put a small piece of wire through the hole to hold the brushes until I got the plastic housing most of the way on the motor. then I just pulled the two wires out and pushed the housing on the rest of the way. it was also a pain to get everything back in the door, but after I got everything done, the window works like a champ now. it goes up and down very quickly. the only downside is that the motor wont shut off now when it gets to the end of the track. the window wont come out or anything because there are stops on each side of the gear. so, the only thing to do now it to make sure that as soon as the window rolls all the way down or up, to release the switch. the only exception is the auto down feature. this still works and will still automatically shut off the motor. I’m sure I didn't make this procedure very clear, and I’m sorry for the lack of pictures. I just thought I’d post this technique, as I searched and didn't see anything like it.

 

I did the thermal bypass on my drivers side door window motor last night and while I will say it did cure the problem where the window would stop working and it also made the window MUCH faster....you mentioned that the Auto down feature still shuts off once the window is down....that is NOT correct. The thermal breaker was what stopped the motor once the window got to the down position. With the bypass done (at least on my car) the AUTO down feature still works....but the motor doesnt stop trying to go down until it either trips the breaker under the dash, or burns up the motor...or worse yet....breaks something in the door. I am going to try and disable the AUTO feature as I figure its probably something built in to the breaker circuit....but at present time I will say this.....
This mod will solve a couple of problems...but it also creates a new problem.
Im still going to recommend the mod because its far cheaper than buying a new motor every year and it sucks to be in a drive thru trying to order food when the window wont go down..or worse...when you encounter a sudden rainstorm and cant get the damn window to go up.

 

You can replace the motor yourself. The ebay route isn't bad, but sometimes you may not get the best quality product. Most on here (my guess) would suggest getting one from AutoZone 'cause they're high quality and warrantied for life. My understanding is they're not too expensive ($40-$50). This website (shbox) is amazing for "How Tos." The directions in this one are amazing. Let us know what/how you did. Jim http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

 

hmm..that's odd. My auto down works just fine. I did this about a year and a half ago and haven't had any more problems with it.