No what do I do
No what do I do
I just found out today that my motor is just about gone. The block it still ok, but the rods, pistons, and crank are gone. The bottom end is knocking real bad. I'm thinking about going with a 383. I wanna know what I need to be looking for. I hear something about a 383 rotating assembly kit that you can buy. Is that what I need to look for? Also I will have some stock parts to sell. I need to know what I need to keep, and what I can sell. Would it be ok to get the kit used? And also what kind of cam would you recomend for a 383. I want a real agressive cam. something bigger than a cc306. what kind of springs.......etc. How much am I looking to spend on getting a kit like this. It can be used. I hear all the parts are fully forged....is that right? I'm starting to save right now for this. I just need to know what
I need to be doing with the car right now since i'm not driving it or working on it now. I have a lot of time to do this too. I appreciate all the responses to this thread. Thanks
Joey
I need to be doing with the car right now since i'm not driving it or working on it now. I have a lot of time to do this too. I appreciate all the responses to this thread. Thanks
Joey
I would NOT get a Scat crank (aslso stands for Scat-ter) and I would stay away from eagle rods. I have seen too many people that turned those scat cranks into 3 different pieces, and twist those rods into unrecognizable shapes. I would go with a Cola crank, expensive but worth every penny, or even a Callies crank, oliver, crower, lunati rods, and the Weisco pistons would be good.
Originally posted by AHARTZ28
wiseco pistons they are the same as JE/SRP
wiseco pistons they are the same as JE/SRP
Wiseco pistons are definitely a different forging than the JE/SRP's - quality wise they are comparable, but they are not the same piston.
Otherwise I agree - for a budget setup that is a good package - it will really depend on what power levels you are shooting for, what your budget is, and if you have any power adders planned for the future.
Scat products are just fine - their cast cranks are good pieces for their intended usage level - sure, if you want to make 700rwhp@ 7000 rpm a cast crank isn't for you anyway - if you are keeping it under 6500 or so and under 550rwhp then the cast crank can easily handle that - and save you some money also.
As for saying scat products are bad - they make some very nice custom billet cranks also, as well as many intermediate range products - again, it depends on your application.
Same with the eagle rods - I beams @ 700rwhp is stupid - the eagle H-beams on the other hand are tremendously strong, esp. for the price. If you aren't making over 800rwhp then I would have no problem at all with them.
The parts you mention are good, but he would be better off to save the money on the rotating assembly if he doesn't need it and invest it in the heads, etc.
Chris
I'm not planning on using any nitrous or other power adders right now. I wanna get in the area of 400 to 500 hp. Also I was thinking if I really needed a fully forged setup. Do I really need it?
Read this and tell scat cranks are fine. Here is the same combo that you want to run. Scat crank, eagle rods, and je pistons.
http://www.dfwstangs.com/forums/show...hreadid=102525
http://www.dfwstangs.com/forums/show...hreadid=102525
I was looking at this setup. Minus the rods i guess. How much would a better set cost?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2419622014
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2419622014
Originally posted by whitehooptie
Read this and tell scat cranks are fine. Here is the same combo that you want to run. Scat crank, eagle rods, and je pistons.
http://www.dfwstangs.com/forums/show...hreadid=102525
Read this and tell scat cranks are fine. Here is the same combo that you want to run. Scat crank, eagle rods, and je pistons.
http://www.dfwstangs.com/forums/show...hreadid=102525
I would just echo what gun4hire above posted. You can break just about anything if you want to.
Additionally, he was running a solid roller setup, so he was probably turning some pretty decent RPM's (not a good call with a cast crank)
KB pistons are fine as long as you aren't going to run a power adder - but they are pretty heavy (again, keep the rpm down). As long as you stay under 6500 and under 500-550rwhp you should be fine.
I wouldn't trust the balance job on that rotating assembly honestly - I would just get a local machine shop (whomever you have assemble the motor) to balance the setup.
Chris
Additionally, he was running a solid roller setup, so he was probably turning some pretty decent RPM's (not a good call with a cast crank)
KB pistons are fine as long as you aren't going to run a power adder - but they are pretty heavy (again, keep the rpm down). As long as you stay under 6500 and under 500-550rwhp you should be fine.
I wouldn't trust the balance job on that rotating assembly honestly - I would just get a local machine shop (whomever you have assemble the motor) to balance the setup.
Chris
I'm going to let a shop assemble the engine. Like I said earlier I want to have around 400-450ish rwhp. Nothing more, i'm content with that. Unless that setup on ebay is totaly the wrong setup for me, then I won't get. But otherwise I'm going to get it.
I don't have to read it. I was the black SS that he was racing. He is does not have that much power. It had a pu$$y *** solid cam in it, and he was not turning it that tight. I am just saying that a stock crank is better than a Scat crank.
Better for what? A billet LA crank is going to be better than a scat crank also. A forged Callies crank is better than a scat crank also. You need to define the context - and then realize cost is an issue also.
We aren't talking about a solid roller power adder car here. That makes a pretty big difference.
I have seen plenty of stock cranks let go - even in just heads+cam cars - so if I find 2 examples of that does that disprove your one example? That's the problem with anecdotal evidence.
The scat crank should in just about every way be stronger/better than a stock crank. Plus you get 33 extra cubic inches, which is definitely worthwile.
In regards to the ebay setup my main concern would be what the dish is on the pistons - depending on what your heads end up CCing you may want a flat top (i don't believe those are) - they also indicate they have another assembly available for less - I am betting that is using flat tops.
I would have the balance checked by your machinist - since it comes with a flexplate it sounds like an external balance - I would definitely spend the extra $$$ and have it internally balanced.
We aren't talking about a solid roller power adder car here. That makes a pretty big difference.
I have seen plenty of stock cranks let go - even in just heads+cam cars - so if I find 2 examples of that does that disprove your one example? That's the problem with anecdotal evidence.
The scat crank should in just about every way be stronger/better than a stock crank. Plus you get 33 extra cubic inches, which is definitely worthwile.
In regards to the ebay setup my main concern would be what the dish is on the pistons - depending on what your heads end up CCing you may want a flat top (i don't believe those are) - they also indicate they have another assembly available for less - I am betting that is using flat tops.
I would have the balance checked by your machinist - since it comes with a flexplate it sounds like an external balance - I would definitely spend the extra $$$ and have it internally balanced.



Well. I need to weigh my options. I can find a 383 setup for around 900 I think I might go ahead and do that. any other suggestions?