Looking for a lt1 transam roller
I know all the wires, but you can pick up an engine harness fairly cheap from someone. Not sure what you mean about all the sheet metal, but it's all good. $2500 you could part out to a roller and make your money back easy. It's a complete car.
I don't know, he's getting evicted and has no job so...... I'll see about getting some pics of it for you. I'll have to borrow someones camera though, I don't have one. He told me between 2500-3000, so 2000 might take some coaxing.
Edit: The wheel covers he has are ugly
....at least I hope they are covers and not rims cause they really are ugly!!!
Edit: The wheel covers he has are ugly
....at least I hope they are covers and not rims cause they really are ugly!!!
what i mean by the warping metal ( i am an Auto body student) is when you get to much heat on the sheet metal it starts to make a bunch of waves aka warp. When that happens the metal will never be as strong as it was and it isnt easy to get the warps out most of the time you have to replace the panels that the heat got to. I myself would never ever buy a fire damaged car due to those possibilities even if i am parting it out because the person who gets the part after you will get the effects of said fire on the car.
It would depend upon the amount of heat and how long the fire burned.
I bought a Z28 that had an under-hood fire from the fuel rails lifting off the injectors. The builders never installed the locking clips and didn't torque the fuel rail bolts.
I was hot enough to melt the plastic cowling, the brake master cylinder and the bulkhead connector below the brake booster. Flame even licked up under the dash getting the gauge cluster and steering column.
None of the inner structure was damaged as described. But, in an intense fire, metal will deform.
For my purposes, that was all OK as the car is now a road race car, the owner being in San Antonio. We used a Painless harness and hand wired what we needed inside the car.
It would have been a daunting task, though, to make it streetable once again.
Ben, I thought you were looking for a CHEAP roller for parts. I have another 94 Formula roller, teal green, T-Tops, straight body and most everything there, except motor and trans. It has tan cloth interior which has seen better days. But it's all there.
I would take $3K for it. I don't have any pics of it and it's located in Ft. Worth so I can't get any easily.
Lemme know ...
I bought a Z28 that had an under-hood fire from the fuel rails lifting off the injectors. The builders never installed the locking clips and didn't torque the fuel rail bolts.
I was hot enough to melt the plastic cowling, the brake master cylinder and the bulkhead connector below the brake booster. Flame even licked up under the dash getting the gauge cluster and steering column.
None of the inner structure was damaged as described. But, in an intense fire, metal will deform.
For my purposes, that was all OK as the car is now a road race car, the owner being in San Antonio. We used a Painless harness and hand wired what we needed inside the car.
It would have been a daunting task, though, to make it streetable once again.
Ben, I thought you were looking for a CHEAP roller for parts. I have another 94 Formula roller, teal green, T-Tops, straight body and most everything there, except motor and trans. It has tan cloth interior which has seen better days. But it's all there.
I would take $3K for it. I don't have any pics of it and it's located in Ft. Worth so I can't get any easily.
Lemme know ...
Last edited by mitchntx; Jun 19, 2007 at 03:24 AM.
thanks mitch i am looking for a cheap roller but honestly i was looking for a trans am. i was going to convert any formula that i got into one. thats why i was looking to pick one up for cheap. i am sure the other 94 is worth it but at 3000 its to high for me to then try to convert it to a trans am. but i do thanks you for the offer.
What of the car are you really needing?
When we talked you said something about buying a TA nose and reusing your hood.
Can I keep the nose, nose under structure, impact beam, headlight covers, hood cowl and hood? Basically leave the fenders in place?
When we talked you said something about buying a TA nose and reusing your hood.
Can I keep the nose, nose under structure, impact beam, headlight covers, hood cowl and hood? Basically leave the fenders in place?
i would need the headlight covers and the under structure. and also i think i may have found something local i can use. dont know for sure yet but it would be a lot easier than trying to find a truck and a trailer to use. thanks again mitch
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