Killeen H.O.T. F-body
02-02-2004, 11:13 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Baylor University - TX
Posts: 2,626
Originally posted by RedHottG2
Hey Doug...yea I decided today to go with a 355 build up...it's the most cost efective way to get my tired LT1 back up to speed...this way I can have a fresh motor in my car for awile and put the hard core cash back for suspension upgrades and eventually the 396 I've been wanting
Hey Doug...yea I decided today to go with a 355 build up...it's the most cost efective way to get my tired LT1 back up to speed...this way I can have a fresh motor in my car for awile and put the hard core cash back for suspension upgrades and eventually the 396 I've been wanting
Good choice...let me know what all you go with as far as internals...
02-02-2004, 11:48 PM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: cen-tex
Posts: 464
the only real differance ive seen was the crank. the forged 383 was $400 the cast was $280.dont know about 355. the rods and pistons are basically the same thats really why i decided 383, not much more $$ maybe a little more hp.
rods $350
pistons $280(hyperwhatever) $500(forged)
then another $400 of crap, boreing, labor, rings, balance, ect..
edit....
i just read you pm, my opinion would be dont get cheap inside the engine. i did that last year and i'm back again. $400 for a forged cank, 355 i think is a little less. i'm doing forget everything, if you go cast it'll be cheaper. $1020 for cast crank and hyper pistons on a 383, 355 could be less.
accarding to the owner there at the machine shop the 396 is where you have drivability prob. due to the angly of the rod to the crank and piston, plus the shorter pston you have to run to get the extra inches on the crank. couses piston slap, things like that. you will have more work to do "clearancing" the block.
as far as 355 goes i thing it is a good mix of a diver during the week and a performer on the weekend.
rods $350
pistons $280(hyperwhatever) $500(forged)
then another $400 of crap, boreing, labor, rings, balance, ect..
edit....
i just read you pm, my opinion would be dont get cheap inside the engine. i did that last year and i'm back again. $400 for a forged cank, 355 i think is a little less. i'm doing forget everything, if you go cast it'll be cheaper. $1020 for cast crank and hyper pistons on a 383, 355 could be less.
accarding to the owner there at the machine shop the 396 is where you have drivability prob. due to the angly of the rod to the crank and piston, plus the shorter pston you have to run to get the extra inches on the crank. couses piston slap, things like that. you will have more work to do "clearancing" the block.
as far as 355 goes i thing it is a good mix of a diver during the week and a performer on the weekend.
Last edited by viperkiller; 02-03-2004 at 12:05 AM.
02-03-2004, 12:08 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Baylor University - TX
Posts: 2,626
I wasnt planning on going "cheap" on the internals, but then again I wasnt planning on spraying that much if at all....the 355 kit offered by summitt seems to be a good idea...it comes with:
pistons, ring set, main bearing set, rod bearings, lubricant, cam bearings, expansion plugs, oil pump, gasket kit, and plastagage
All for $530...
I figured id be fine getting my stock cran kprepped and polished as well has getting my block honed to 355...I see no need for ALL forged internals...
pistons, ring set, main bearing set, rod bearings, lubricant, cam bearings, expansion plugs, oil pump, gasket kit, and plastagage
All for $530...
I figured id be fine getting my stock cran kprepped and polished as well has getting my block honed to 355...I see no need for ALL forged internals...
02-03-2004, 09:47 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Temple, Texas
Posts: 688
Dang Mike, switchin sides on us? You already got your spot reserved in TFB! lol You should come down sometime and check out my new apartment. Man, did you hear about my brakes? Warped rotors and ground down pads man, you gotta come check em out, they look horrible. I'm keeping them as a reminder to pay more attention to squeeks, lol Peace,
02-03-2004, 12:51 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: cen-tex
Posts: 464
Originally posted by FacelessZ
I wasnt planning on going "cheap" on the internals, but then again I wasnt planning on spraying that much if at all....the 355 kit offered by summitt seems to be a good idea...it comes with:
pistons, ring set, main bearing set, rod bearings, lubricant, cam bearings, expansion plugs, oil pump, gasket kit, and plastagage
All for $530...
I figured id be fine getting my stock cran kprepped and polished as well has getting my block honed to 355...I see no need for ALL forged internals...
I wasnt planning on going "cheap" on the internals, but then again I wasnt planning on spraying that much if at all....the 355 kit offered by summitt seems to be a good idea...it comes with:
pistons, ring set, main bearing set, rod bearings, lubricant, cam bearings, expansion plugs, oil pump, gasket kit, and plastagage
All for $530...
I figured id be fine getting my stock cran kprepped and polished as well has getting my block honed to 355...I see no need for ALL forged internals...
i'm not trying to get in you coolaid or anything but does that come with the rods too. my first lt1 snaped #7 rod at idle, in my driveway
they say after a lot of miles they just get weakend by the abuse.? thats all i was getting at by geting cheap on the rebuild. an oversight, or like me didnt see any wear and all tolerances were in spec. so i tryied it, now i'm paying for it and didnt want you to make the same mistake i did.no offence intended, thats just what happend to me.
02-03-2004, 01:24 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Baylor University - TX
Posts: 2,626
Originally posted by viperkiller
that price sounds pretty good.
i'm not trying to get in you coolaid or anything but does that come with the rods too. my first lt1 snaped #7 rod at idle, in my driveway they say after a lot of miles they just get weakend by the abuse.? thats all i was getting at by geting cheap on the rebuild. an oversight, or like me didnt see any wear and all tolerances were in spec. so i tryied it, now i'm paying for it and didnt want you to make the same mistake i did.
no offence intended, thats just what happend to me.
that price sounds pretty good.
i'm not trying to get in you coolaid or anything but does that come with the rods too. my first lt1 snaped #7 rod at idle, in my driveway
they say after a lot of miles they just get weakend by the abuse.? thats all i was getting at by geting cheap on the rebuild. an oversight, or like me didnt see any wear and all tolerances were in spec. so i tryied it, now i'm paying for it and didnt want you to make the same mistake i did.no offence intended, thats just what happend to me.
02-03-2004, 06:28 PM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 2,076
Originally posted by TechCam97
Dang Mike, switchin sides on us? You already got your spot reserved in TFB! lol You should come down sometime and check out my new apartment. Man, did you hear about my brakes? Warped rotors and ground down pads man, you gotta come check em out, they look horrible. I'm keeping them as a reminder to pay more attention to squeeks, lol Peace,
Dang Mike, switchin sides on us? You already got your spot reserved in TFB! lol You should come down sometime and check out my new apartment. Man, did you hear about my brakes? Warped rotors and ground down pads man, you gotta come check em out, they look horrible. I'm keeping them as a reminder to pay more attention to squeeks, lol Peace,
By the way, I think Doug and viperkiller should come check out Temple F-body sometime and maybe become members
.
02-03-2004, 08:32 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 2,076
Alright cool, I'll get with Matt and find out when we are going to start the meetups again. TFB was kinna shut down for awile but we are getting it all back together. Should have alot of new members and planes for some good outings 
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