Hello, quite new to the forums so let me tell you a little about myself before hounding you guys for your much needed information.

My name is Dakota, I go by Ender and I live outside of Nashville, in Tennessee. I attend Austin Peay state University where I'm a Junior majoring in Computer Science with a concentration in Web Design (big nerd)

I LOVE cars, and always have. My dad had a 69 Z28 Camaro which is one of my first memories. My mechanical car knowledge isn't GREAT, but it is existent and the most important part of that is that I want it to grow. Unfortunately; I can't stop what I'm doing with my B.S. to go to NADC or another Auto College and all the best older guy mechanics I know learned by doing. So that's what I'm going to do. I'll list a few things I've done to give you guys a brief overview of my actual knowledge of cars.

I have installed a pretty hefty sound system in my car. (I can post details if anyone wants, but I'm VERY knowledgeable about Car Audio.)
I have replaced my alternator three times, due to the fact that I run such a high powered sound system.
I change my own oil.
I helped my friend's dad swap out a 1600cc (I think) engine out of a 67 VW beetle. And by "help" I mean that I feel confident that I could do it myself, if I had an extra set of hands to help me left the darn thing.
I know lots of main principles about Car Mechanics like "stroke" "compression" and differences between "Generators (in the old VW's) and "alternators" the difference between a Axle, and Transmission, and a Transaxle. And what all of the previously mentioned pieces do. In the exception that compression, and strokes aren't pieces but instead ratio's and numbers of cylinder's and cam shaft displacements.

If you've taken the time to read this far, thank you very much, I truly do appreciate it, and if you ever need any help with anything computer related, just let me know. You can even AIM me if you want "DruidEnder" is my screen name.

FACTS~

I own a 1994 Camaro V6
I own a good Jack and Jack stands.
I DO NOT own a lift.
I DO have a well kept garage to do work.
I DO NOT have a ton of tools (but I do plan on purchasing them)

What I want to do :

(FAR FUTURE) I want to swap out the v6 3.4 liter engine with the 350 Small block LT1 or possibly LS1 with a 6 speed transmission, and obviously the new computer. This WONT be happening for another 4 months at least (which will be winter, so probably not until about 10 months)


(NOW) I want to buy the 3.4 under pulley set, found here.

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...d=251&pcid=111

Found under Item number "49-541801"

Question, I see that this upgrade typically nets a 6-12 HP difference, is this WITH the alternator Pulley too, or just the crank pulley?

Lastly, I imagine this can't be too difficult to do myself, any tips, guides on the install?


(NOW) Looking for other small upgrades I can do MYSELF. I don't mind paying the money, but I want to do everything myself; at least everything that's practical.

 

Welcome to the board first of all.

To answer your question about the pulley. I have a feeling that is with the alternator pulley too. If I had to bet I would say you would only gain 4-9 hp with the crank pulley only, but that is just a guess.

As far as the install, this is a z28, so i dont know how much different it is, but this is from installuniversity.com

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

just click on install documents and scroll down to pulley replacement

 

Thanks a bunch man, and thanks for the welcome.

Read over the install guide; and looks pretty simple:

Remove Belt.
Remove Large Bolt in middle of which ever pulley you're replacing.
Put on New Pulley.
Put belt back on.

He was replacing the Drive Belt Idler Pulley which ISNT what I'll be replacing, which is the crank and alternator pulley right? This is just for verification.

Also, let me ask you something about intake.

K & N only sells one air intake for around $200 for the V6's and it doesn't even look like it's cold air. it's found here:

http://www.autoanything.com/air-inta...A1914A0A0.aspx


And as we know, ebay always has third party people making things, and intake is no exception.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...spagenameZWD1V

Is what i was looking at, which is the cold air system, and that guy also has a non cold air (It just goes off to the side under the hood.


1.) What are some of the differences between the K&N and the ChromeINTAKES systems, and filters?
2.) Would the ChromeINTAKES be an improvement over the factory intake.
3.) If so, would you recommend cold air for Higher RPMS, or Regular for Lower RPMS?

 

For starters that price is too high for the pullies. Look at other vendors because I got my ASP set for $70 and I have seen them sell used for much less.

Second, you are not going to want underdrive pullies with a high-wattage sound system. Like the Thunder page says, full charge at 1100rpm, which means <12v at idle. If you do mostly highway driving you would probably be okay but in city driving you're going to run down the battery.

There are other cold air kits besides the K&N. Any kit that fits the LT1 will also fit the 3.4 including SLP, Moroso and Lingenfelter. Look on eBay for a used kit.

 

Will the underdrive pulleys for the 1994 5.7l work for the 3.4 models? I believe it should since none of the Accessories swapped in this year.

Also, so as long as it has full charge around 1,000rpm (idle) then I should be fine, right?

Also, that previously listed Intake system is no good?

 

Don't get those pulley's if you have alt. problems now. It will make it worse.

I would get a good cat-back and a cold air. Other than that...if you are going to do a swap don't waste a bunch of money on the 3.4L.


Several people have done v-6 to v-8 swaps so If you read up on it and find out what you need..I would make a list and start collecting the parts

 

That's just it, only going to be spending around $100 I think it'll be worth it since I won't be doing the swap for another 10 months at least, eh?

 

No, that's why there is a set specifically for the 3.4

If you're going to try to underdrive with your stereo then I would just get the crank pulley. Adding the alt pulley underdrives it even more. You will need a shorter belt with the smaller crank pulley.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

As to the all. problem, i used to install pro audio, what RMS power are you running, u can usually get a bult ALT 200a for around $150 and it would solve that problem


Don

 

I'm pulling around 1,000w RMS (300w RMS Eclipse SW6200 x 2 and my 4 channel amp pushes around 300-400watts rms) at 80% Head Unit Volume. I'll have an aftermarker Alternator in around a week that'll do 140 amps, replacing the 80 amp AC Delco Alt that I have now.

So with the new alternator, and the underdrive pulley, it'd be about 128 amps, with the new alternator pulley depriving 20% power which is an amperage rating I can live with especially for the thought of a 12-15 horsepower gain at the wheels from the Two pulleys and Cold Air Intake

 

The stock 3.4 alternator is 105 amp. I have a high-output 160 amp alternator and also the ASP pulley set, it still won't charge at idle rpm's. Alts are designed to generate output at a certain rpm and with the underdrive pullies you're turning them slower. The only thing a high-output alt gets you with underdrive pullies is that when you do have the revs up, the alt is charging the battery at a higher rate than the standard alt.

 

Thanks for your post man, very helpful. ^_^

So, if I make sure the alternator operates at 100% utilizing the percentage of RPM's remaining (after subtraction of under drive) then I'd be alright?

For example. If my alternator delivers 140 amps @ 800 RPMs, and my car idles at 1,000 RPM's, then I'd be fine with a 20% under drive alternator pulley? Or at least at idle I'd be delivering 140 amps of current?

 

That would be great if it delivers 100% of max amperage at idle, but it seems most alternators don't make max power until 1500-3000rpm range. That means power output at idle can be ½ or even ¼ the rated output. If voltage is lower than battery voltage it won't provide any charge. However if you reduce resistance with the same voltage, current will increase. So high-output alternator manufacturers will recommend you replace the power cable between the alt and battery.

 

Also referred to as the "Big 3 Upgrade" a larger cable from Alt Positive to Bat Possitive, battery Negative to ground, and alternator mount to chasis. Already done, pulleys ordered, will keep you guys updated