Just installed new intake manifold gaskets about a month ago. I noticed that a bunch of white smoke (more than before) is flowing out the tailpipe so it's been recommended that I do head gaskets.
So,
1. Should I get new intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets again?
2. While I was in there, I noticed a lot of carbon build up in the manifolds. What's the recommended method for a DIY'er to remove that? I have a dremel if that's any use to me here.
3. Anything else I can / should: be looking at / checking for while I'm in there again?

Or, would you recommend something else for the smoke? To describe it, only does it when the engine is cold and has been sitting for a while. Smells kinda sour or pungent. After the engine warms up, no more smoke.

Thanks in advance

 

do you have cats? If not that explains the smell, and the smoke is common if it is relatively cold out. Mine smokes like mad for probably 20 minutes before it goes away.

Yes

As far as head gaskets go, the carbon is common, you can use some oil/gas treatments for that. I wouldn't suggest trying to get it off with a dremel, unless you are porting them. I used Seafoam and that worked pretty well after a couple cans. Could also just wipe it off with a rag or something once the head is off.

Look for coolant, and pray there isn't any. Make sure none of the pistons are deformed.

But changing all the gaskets should be your last resort. Check some other areas first.

 

Yes, cat is installed.

When I say buildup, I mean it's like 1/8 inch thick, and hard like charcoal. And I've seafoamed it 2 or 3 times in the last 6 months (about every 3 oil changes, and I change the oil that much because I drive that much. Every 3000 miles.)

I will.

What should I check?

BTW Shibby, you got me pricing injectors now! LOL

 

hmmm, I just now noticed you specified that it is white smoke. Well the main thing here is, if it was a head gasket leaking coolant, you would be having white smoke coming out all the time, not just on warm up. If it just keeps coming out for a very prolonged time, then I would look into replacing the gaskets. Some signs of a bad gasket (from what I have read) are coolant/oil around the head/intake. That doesn't mean oil period, I have oil around mine, but if it is running and still viscous.

Is it relatively cold where you are? Like I said, cold obviously makes the exhaust look white until it warms up.

As far as injectors go, check here!

Glad you finally understand how injectors effect fuel flow and what not. Do you plan on doing a cam now also?

 

Well, my train of thought on the cam is: put injectors in it first to be able to handle what I'm expecting out of it now, with room to grow so that when I put the cam in, I won't have to worry about the fuel. BTW, I was looking on JEGs, and I can get 24lb injectors for the same price as 19lb. Would I notice a difference if I went with the 24s? I'm thinking not, since they'll be more than able to handle the load, and also afford me room to grow in the future when I'm ready for the cam.

Now as for the cold, I'm in Atlanta and it's a little chilly, but not too bad. The smoke does come out all the time, it's just thick for about the first 15 mins or so of running. I do have an oil leaking from somewhere behind the engine. I've run my hand back there and come out wet with oil. Can't see anything though, because it is in the back of the engine compartment. Don't see anything from underneath except for a drip coming from the front of the transmission. (Oil, not trans fluid)

Now back to the injectors, are 19lb injectors 19lb injectors? Is there a difference between Chevy, Ford, Toyota, etc? And, will 24lb fit in my car? How would I look this info up if I weren't able to bug you with these questions?

 

19lb injectors are 19lbs no matter who makes it, or who it was made for. There are different styles though. Ford usually is interchangable with chevy. Bosch is also a common name.

If your engine is constantly smoking then I would look into the head gaskets. My car eventually stops smoking after a while and I live up north.

If you do a cam swap, you are going to need to change some things. Like valve springs. New valve springs = new retainers, locks, valve seals. Then there is a ton of other stuff involved with springs (like the injectors sort of).

As far as looking up stuff, google has been my friend. Do LOTS AND LOTS of reading.

EDIT: No you will not notice a difference from 19lb to 24lb injectors. 24 will not have to work as hard, but you won't be able to notice that. Might be wise to get a tune though, since 16 to 24 with no mods is a big jump. It would be like my 24 going to 32. There is absolutely no need for it unless I do something. Besides, 19lb/hr can handle close to 275 hp. Do you plan on making 275 flywheel hp? (stock is about 200).

 

Well, it's a new hobby, and as you can see I'm just learning.
So, no telling where this is going but for now I'm just playing with it and seeing what all is possible.
As for the injectors again... lol... what would be the results for both:
1. getting the 19lb injectors without a tune
2. getting the 19lb injectors WITH a tune?
And the same for 24lb?
I was assuming that as long as I DON"T get a tune, that the difference would be more noticeable, and as for the 24lb, I assumed that without a tune, the difference I'd notice would be the same as if I'd installed 19lb, until I got a cam. The injectors would just not have to work nearly as hard. Actually with that much of an increase, they'd hardly have to work at all.
Not so?

 

You're right that the injectors would barely have to work if you got 24lb. I would probably still get a tune though, the injectors would still be told to open the same amount since the computer cannot see a bigger injector unless you tune it.

These are the options I would look at:
1. 19lb with or without a tune, should not really matter a whole lot
2. 24lb with a tune, for later use with a cam (needs a retune if you get a cam later)
3. get 19lb/24lb with cam and tune, all at same time. Don't forget valvetrain also.


Coolant again...have you noticed the temp going up higher? Or have you checked the radiator for lower coolant levels? That would be a definitely way of telling instead of going by exhaust.

 

No, coolant is fine, I'm pretty paranoid about that since I had to replace the water pump. Temp stays cool.
Now tuning... I'm assuming again, but that's not something I can do myself is it?
And, 19lb it is until I can afford the whole deal. Thanks.

 

Unless you have a laptop, a cable to connect to the cars computer and the laptop, a program to change the tables in the car, and a whole lot of knowledge about what you are doing...then no.

19lb-ers would be a good start. Glad I could help . Just thought...if by chance you do get worse milage with 19lbs, you could change back to the stock ones until you get a tune. So save them for backup

If coolant is fine, temp level is fine, then I would not worry about it. Knowing me though I would check it every now and then anyways. (I baby my car like that , *runs outside to kiss car goodnight*)

 

Ok, then who do you take it to to get a tune? Dyno shop?
I'm the same way. That's why I gotta do the head gasket. Just in case that IS what's wrong with her.
But it'll be next year sometime before I can afford the injectors. Damn these holidays!!! That, and I'm moving my wife and kids down here, and that ain't cheap. lol
At least then I won't have to drive 800 miles every weekend to be with 'em.
BTW, what do you think about that layer of carbon build up in my intake manifold? How would you get that crap outta there?

 

Yes, take it to a dynoshop. They are NOT cheap though, at all. I called a near by one and they said it was around 150 for just one pull (one run at WOT). Then around 300 for 3 pulls. It is ridiculous. My best recommendations for anything you do to an engine, is to do it all at once. Cam, valvetrain, injectors, tune, all at the same time. After all, your stock injectors are keeping the engine running right?

For the carbon build up, a good can of choke/carb cleaner works really well on gunky stuff like that. Hold the can down on it, then wipe it away. Worked wonders on my starter when it was covered in oil and carbon.

 

Damn, that is expensive.. what area? I'll do some calling around.
Thanks for all the explanations man. Much appreciated.

 

Not a problem.

The prices are from local ones around where I live. It can vary, but it still won't be dramatically cheaper. That's why I'm waiting till I know I have plenty of money.

 

Wow...Dynos by you are expensive. We have a shop here in Jersey that has a dyno day every month, and they charge $50 for 4 pulls with wideband O2. And they provide food and drink.

As far as a tune goes, your going to be very limited by the fact that you have a 3.4L. There is only a few companies out there that will tune them.

- Justin