Need Help Fast!! Please!
I started overheating today. Went to PBs and found the coolant was low (never smelled coolant), my entire engine bay is dry. Added coolant and it was idling (no leaks) at a good temp for so I drove home. It seemed to get a little warm as I got close to home. When I got home I checked the overflow tank and the level was good. Before I left the house tonight I checked the overflow level again and it was ok. Started to drive and it heated up again, I turned on the heat but only cool air came out. I got home and grabbed my wife's car. When I got back home the coolant was low again. I found no puddles.
I am confused! I checked my oil and the level is high, but I can't tell if there is coolant in the oil (it smells like used oil not collant).
Any ideas?
I am confused! I checked my oil and the level is high, but I can't tell if there is coolant in the oil (it smells like used oil not collant).
Any ideas?
If there is fluid in the radiator the car idles fine and the temp stays OK. That is what I did in PBs parking lot...but by the time I got home (3 miles and 30 minutes) the car was running warm again....and I was low on coolant. I cannot find a leak anywhere..
I just got a call from my shop, the system is holding pressure and they could not find a leak. They are going to flush and fill the system and run it for a while...since it is time, they are going to change my oil and see if there is any coolant in there.... They are not sure if it is a small leak in the intake system (I knew I should have done the TB bypass). But they seem clueless.
I had the shop drain the oil and it had the classic "milkshake" look of oil-coolant mix.
The shop thinks it may be the intake manifold, however they are testing the compression in each cyl to make sure it is not a headgasket....but I am fearing the worst.
The shop thinks it may be the intake manifold, however they are testing the compression in each cyl to make sure it is not a headgasket....but I am fearing the worst.
I work at a shop my self and $1400 is insane for any headgasket ive heard of. Is that installed and everything find out what the gaskets cost and what theyre charging for labor, another thought is, is this a dealership they're always high. Headgaskets shouldn't be that big a deal lots of stuff to move around but no $1400 worth I've got and lt1 and did the notorious oil leak on intake which is right there and it's not that hard. If you have any mechanic exp. you might try it but get a book to help.
DEFINATELY do more looking thats too much money.
DEFINATELY do more looking thats too much money.
That was for everything, heads machined, valves reseated, etc....
When all was going to be said and done, the price would have been around 1800-2K...yeah I was probably getting ripped off, and they were using "book" labor.... I decided on a remanufacured engine from a local business, roadmaster chevy engines, for 1800. I figure with the oil leak repairs needed, highmileage and compression around 8.25 in each cyl, I decided it was the wiser choice......the engine and work is guaranteed for 12 months (unlimited miles).....so I bot the bullet....
When all was going to be said and done, the price would have been around 1800-2K...yeah I was probably getting ripped off, and they were using "book" labor.... I decided on a remanufacured engine from a local business, roadmaster chevy engines, for 1800. I figure with the oil leak repairs needed, highmileage and compression around 8.25 in each cyl, I decided it was the wiser choice......the engine and work is guaranteed for 12 months (unlimited miles).....so I bot the bullet....
Originally posted by CARdiac
That was for everything, heads machined, valves reseated, etc....
When all was going to be said and done, the price would have been around 1800-2K...yeah I was probably getting ripped off, and they were using "book" labor.... I decided on a remanufacured engine from a local business, roadmaster chevy engines, for 1800. I figure with the oil leak repairs needed, highmileage and compression around 8.25 in each cyl, I decided it was the wiser choice......the engine and work is guaranteed for 12 months (unlimited miles).....so I bot the bullet....
That was for everything, heads machined, valves reseated, etc....
When all was going to be said and done, the price would have been around 1800-2K...yeah I was probably getting ripped off, and they were using "book" labor.... I decided on a remanufacured engine from a local business, roadmaster chevy engines, for 1800. I figure with the oil leak repairs needed, highmileage and compression around 8.25 in each cyl, I decided it was the wiser choice......the engine and work is guaranteed for 12 months (unlimited miles).....so I bot the bullet....
either do it yourself, or get a "guarage mechanic" buddy to do it. I'm sure you can even find a shop that will do this for you for like $200 bucks if you've never turned a wrench yourself.
if you're set on not reparing this, then at least look around for a new CAR. by the time you're done swapping in the new engine you will have spent enough cash to actualy warrent a whole new car. you can probably find one same year or even newer for like $2500 in decent condition and you save yourself a crapload of time. you can also try selling your car. i'm sure someone who knows what they're doing will pick it up.
or i mean, if you're going to an engine swap anyway, at least drop in an LT1 in there...
I agree that the new engine is not necessary because there is no need for any machine or valve work just put new gaskets on. But if your going for a new motor and have the money lt1s are nice. let me know what you decide.
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