I am looking at a 99 firebird V6 with 63K miles that has all the options. It is going for $3800 and has a rod knock. The body and interior is in good condition. Apperently he did an oil change and didnt put the washer on the drain plug and the oil ran low. Does it sound like a good deal? If not what do you think it is worth?

I have pulled many motors and built engine on older cars (70's GM V8 muscle) so I am comfortable doing the work. I understand that it is easier to pull motors from below on the 4th gens but I will be doing it in my garage so I dont think I will be able to get the car high enough to remove from below. Is pulling it out of the top difficult or possible? Any tips or suggestions?

I was hoping to pull the motor and have the crank turned down and toss in new bearings and oil pump in and get it back on the road for cheap.

Thanks!!!!

 

thats not too bad of price if the body and interior is in great shape.... with that low of mileage, I would expect very few flaws other than the engine for that price. If its something you really want, I would say go for it.
Yes you can pull it out the top, you will get mixed opinions of which is easier, so look carefully at both ways of doing it and see what you think for yourself. You said you've done a few other cars, so Im assuming you know what your doing enough to get this done. Also not having a lift, or room to jack it up 300 miles in the air, you should be fine pulling from the top, just have to go easy and angle it on the way out. Theres room to pull the V8s out of these cars from the top so you should have no problem.
As far as why the engine is knocking.... if it was just the little plastic gasket on the drain plug that made it lose enough oil to damage a bearing, I would say look over the rest of the drivetrain very well. It sounds like the previous owner didnt take too good of care checking things. Even if they didnt bother to check the dipstick often enough, if its leaking that much oil, there should have been enough on the ground and burning off the exhaust to know there was that much of a problem before it got to the bearing failure. This car was mechanically neglected.
As long as everything else is ok, this is good news for you, as you'll get it cheap ! If you can do the majority of the work, I'll say it again, go for it. If you run into problems, just come back and post on here.

 

My question is, since the center of gravity of the V6 is set so far back (actually under the dash), and with only one of the motor lift points set out from underneath the dash.......how would you be able to chain it up without damaging that overhang in front of the windshield without fabbing up some kind of lifting bracket?


I know the local dealer likes to pull the V8's from the top, though Ive never actually seen a V6 pulled before.

 

I was thinking the same thing about the oil leaking from the plug. Unless it fell out it would just be seaping past the threads at a very slow rate. It would also see that a nice puddle would have developed under the car where it was parked. That should have given some signs too. He is a moron or lieing to cover up some other problem.

I was reading some threads and one person pulled it from the bottom in his garage. The rear was on ramps and the front was on jack stands elevated with some home made wood platform. It looked kind of scary to me!

Another post said if coming out from the top the plenum needs to be removed, steering shaft, and many other parts need to be stripped off the car as opposed to coming out the bottom.

Damn I wish it was easier to get the motors out of these cars! Do you think I could just get away with dropping the pan and accessing the lower end to fix crank and bearings without tearing the top half apart? I am worried that contaminated oil got circulated through the motor. That might require me to dismantle the entire engine and have it tanked. I guess once it is apart I would know more about that.

 

I think the oil pan has nothing below it....you might be able to do that.

Ive never attempted that though.

 

It looks like you can get the pan off with the engine still in the car, but you will have to pick the motor up a little. Get a haynes or chiltons manual and it'll tell ya how. you'll have to remove the plastic cowl cover, that will give you a little room to work in the back of the engine compartment. If its not too bad when you get in there, just flush the engine out when you get it back together, maybe change the oil a couple times fairly close together.
I personally would pull the whole thing and go through it or get a salvage unit and drop back in if your limited on time and cash. Just be sure to get a warranty of some type.

 

Ya if I could just drop the pan with the engine still in the car that would be awsome!!!! I just called a motor repair shop in my area and the sell lower end kits for just under $200. That incluedes and new crank and all the bearings. I could get an oil pump for good measure and have it done for very cheap! Any where else on this site or any other area I can post or search to find out if it is possible to do it that way? Would a dealership know? I will try and locate a Haynes or Chiltons manual as well.

 

I just spoke with the dealer and he said you might be able to pull the crank from the bottom. His concern was if it was knocking real bad the rod may have became egg shaped and would need to be pulled and service or replaced. If the piston and rod have to come out it has to be from the top so the head will need to be removed. So I would be tearing off the top end in the car as well. At that point removing it sounds like a better option again. Does anyone know if it is possible to install a piston from the lower end? I have tool to install pistons that squeezed the rings in. I know the top of the cyllinder has a 45ish degree angle put on it so the rings dont catch when installing them. Maybe I could do the same on the bottom of the bore with a dremel tool. Can a piston and rod be installed from teh lower end?

 

I buy and sell 6 cylinder cars (and some 8's) for fun and profit...I just did one that that has your exact problem. I bought me a basket case 99 with same said rod knock, which turned out to be a spun rod bearing on cylinder 1. I took the motor out of the top. You have to pull the trans, driveshaft, and torque arm in the front, then set aside. Then disconnect the exhaust, radiator, plastic air intake tube, trans lines, hoses, the steering shaft, fans, air conditioning pump and lines, electrical connectors, fuel lines, and take off the intake manifold. I am sure I am forgetting something, but you get the gist of it all. Get your engine puller and chains, and take a few bolts and set up your chain as usual. Then pull the pins that hold the motor to the motor mounts, and pull that sucker out from the top, with the hood off and set aside of course. I got a replacement low-mileage junkyard motor with 100 day warranty for $600, although you may find them cheaper where you are. Then install is of course reverse....But you should replace the oil pan gasket no matter what-very expensive plastic gasket but these 3.8's leak like crazy from them over time so definately do it. I have about 4k total in the car with new paint, tires, the motor, new carpet, shocks, stereo with cd, blah blah, it has 20 inch wheels on it and is black-and only has 75k on it...Blue books for 7500 so profit should be decent when I sell it in a month or so. So whether you plan on keeping it or selling it you will come out on top it sounds like. I would NOT waste your time trying to put a band-aid on it with a crank kit from the bottom. Do it right and swap the motor out and call it a day.

 

I've got a '99 I've pulled the motor on. It was the same deal, head gasket though and previous owner tried to replace the motor, broke the windshield and gave up.

I've taken the intake off the motor so I can put the whole thing back in including the tranny. The previous owner squashed a fuel rail trying to get the pan to clear the rack and crossmember. Did you leave that in tact on yours or? I've been months chasing down a fuel rail, so be careful with those, they're tough to find. I'd really rather install that motor complete and have it sealed up on the stand. You had no issues putting in the motor itself with hitting the cowl and clearing that cross member?

For the original poster, I paid $2200 on a full load '99 with 100k. That included the spare motor from an 01. It needs a door painted to match better and a drivers seat leather bottom replaced. I also got headers and a catback exhaust.

 

I put it in sans the whole intake, top and bottom. You have to put the "long block" which is just the heads and block in NO intake. I got it in no problem with a regular engine puller. Then put the intake on inside with the motor already installed. It is not that hard to install the intake in with the motor in the car, you can squeeze up in between the motor and the front clip. Bring your gasket, sealer, and torque wrench/bolts. I am 250 lbs 6 ft so I know you can even if you are a chubby like me. Then just install as if it was on a stand in front of you. Worked like a charm. Then install all accessories, transmission, and finally the exhaust.

I have a fuel rail but it is from a 2000 year model (donor motor) and its fuel injectors had different connectors on it, I wonder if it may work for you?

 

Thanks for the info. I'll keep that in mind, but I am going to try installing only the top intake when I do it. I am going to install the long block with the tranny, I had no problems getting it out, so it should go back in this time easily. The rail only fits 95-99 Camaro and Firebird. I looked for months, called all kinds of wreckers etc, no one had one. I finally got one, should be here this week. I wonder what the original poster ended up buying or passing.