1. Complete LT1 motor (including all brackets and accessories)
T-56 transmission
LT1 ECU & wiring harness
$2500 used

2. LT1 radiator
$100 used

3. dual cooling fans with relay harness
$40 used

4. Z28/TA rear end with posi and disc brakes
$300 used

5. LS1 aluminum one piece driveshaft
$200 used

6. LT1 motor mounts
$80 new from GM

7. LT1 crossmember
$330 new from GM

8. My custom exhaust set up (true duals)
-LT hooker headers with weld in O2 sensors
$450 from thunder racing
- 2 free flow cats
$400 new
-2 40 series flows
$80 new
- custom x-pipe and exhaust shop work
$100?

9. V8 shocks
SLP takeoff $75

10. V8 Springs
SLP takeoff $50

11. Swaybars
SLP takeoff $15?

12. Z28 150mph gauges
$50-$80 ebay

13. LT1 fuel lines and pump
$130?

So this totals a little under $5000
Am I forgetting anything?

 

You actually have a little too much listed in my opinion.I wouldn't swap out the swaybars unless you just want to because the 3.4 and 5.7 are exactly the same size for the rear and only like 2mm diff in the front.I think the V6 is 19mm and the V8 is 21mm.Also,a steel drive shaft is only $25 used and is stronger than an aluminum.Good luck man,I'm sure you'll run across some small things that none of us ever think about.Just take your time and it shouldn't be that bad.There are a couple of guys who have done the swap themselves with little to no problems.Good luck.
Kevin

 

Thanks bud, I was just making sure I had just about everything. I'm not doing the swap till later this summer though, when i get home from school and finish getting my money put together. I might also put off the swap for a while, save up and build a nice 383 with a heads and cam package before I drop it in the car.

 

You forgot a couple things:
ATI D1SC
383 Stroker
pp heads
cam
and a fuel system to support it


Actually on my 94 the front swaybar is the exact same as the v6 but the rear is a 21 on the z28 vs a 19 on the v6. I put in the rear 21 bar and fully poly bushings and it made a good difference. If you want killer weight transfer at the strip you can leave in the v6 springs on all 4 corners. A few people run this setup in the drag racing forum.

 

What if I just left the V6 springs on the rear ad put V8 springs on the front? Wouldn’t that but a better weight transfer set up?

 

Not from what i understand. The v6 springs "unload" much better than the v8 springs. Do a search in the drag racing forum. I am going to try this setup when i put my lt1 in the winter.

 

Sounds like you got all bases covered there bro! I did the homework myself when I owned my V6. I hope all goes well for ya!

 

instead of going through all the trouble of swapping all the stuff over, wouldn't it be an easier and better idea to go and trade your v6 and get the v8? not only that but, you are goin to run into so many snags along the way that in the end it probally wouldn't even be worth is, sorry to discourage you. but heres another option your could look at is a supercharger or turbo, they will put you right up there in the horse power range as the v8 with lower insurance and better gas mileage, plus the awesome feeling of boost

 

Ummm, well lots of people have swapped the engine over and it isn't that bad to do. Then turbo or supercharge the lt1 and get more power. Who says the insurance company needs to know it has a v8? They just go by the vin number anyways.

 

Yeah I see your point about just buying a Z instead of doing the swap. Yet for almost an 8 year old car with 106,000 miles on it my Camaro is in excellent condition. It would be hard for me to find a Z in my price range of about $7000 in this condition. I already know everything about my car. It really isn’t even worth selling, the trade in on it is only like $3000 to $3500. Its worth way more to me personally just because its my first car. Plus by doing the swap, I can build and mod the motor before I even drop it in. That way I still have a car to drive around while I’m taking my time building my 383. I’m in no rush to do this, I never plan to sell my Camaro, only to continue to improve and restore it. I’d also like to get my hands dirty and learn everything about cars by doing this. My best friend has all the tools we need to do this so that’s not a problem. I really don’t care if I have 3 “Z28” badges on my car or not, I plan to stomp Z’s once I’m done with this rebuild. I’m not so sure about the insurance thing yet. My mom used to work for and auto insurance company a few years back. She said it would be fraud if we lie to them about the engine size. So I might just drop my full coverage. So overall your not discouraging me at all. I’ve thought all this through and I know what I want to do. Thanks for the input though and if anyone else has an opinion I encourage you to express it.

 

good luck with it bro, let me know how it turns out

 

Thanks bud, yeah it wont be till this summer thouggh because I'm in school right now about 300 miles from home and I dont have all the $$$ yet. But I plan to take pics and make some post on here to keep everyone updated.

 

Ok I've got another question. do I have to swap anything out on my brake system?
If I just rebuilt my rear end with posi from this kit from SLP,

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...&SHOWEMAIL=Off

It would be able to handle the power and put it to the ground and I wouldn’t have to buy a complete Z28 rear end. Plus Id have better gears.

But anyway, could I keep the drum brakes? Am I going to have to switch to a complete new brake system to work with the LT1? Or is everything going to bolt right up? Could someone explain this to me?

 

As far as brakes go you could keep your drums and just install a posi like i am doing. I think it helps out with the sleeper effect but a lot of people upgrade to the rear discs. The front brakes are the same between lt1 and v6 cars. I however felt that the stock brakes sucked even with the v6 so i did the ls1 upgrade about a year ago and simply love it.

 

So I dont have to mess with the brake lines or anything?