Coolant Flush...
07-29-2004, 12:34 AM
#1
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Coolant Flush...
I got a 1997 Camaro 3.8
I want to flush my entire coolant system, Radiator, Resivoir, Block, ect... I'm going to add some cleaner because everything is all fudged up in there... I guess I add and run the cleaner through the engine before I drain everything right?... My question is, how do I flush the system? what do I unplug to drain it and where is it located? and where's the thermostat on our cars?
I want to flush my entire coolant system, Radiator, Resivoir, Block, ect... I'm going to add some cleaner because everything is all fudged up in there... I guess I add and run the cleaner through the engine before I drain everything right?... My question is, how do I flush the system? what do I unplug to drain it and where is it located? and where's the thermostat on our cars?
08-02-2004, 10:12 AM
#4
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Location: Waynesboro, PA
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Re: Coolant Flush...
Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
But what do I unplug or open to drain all the antifreeze?...oh yes and where on earth is the thermostat on these cars?...
08-07-2004, 11:11 AM
#7
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Re: Coolant Flush...
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
You shoud change your coolant regularly because the rust particals can ware you pump and scale can clog you raidator passages up.
It is not fun.
It is not fun.
08-10-2004, 09:30 AM
#8
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Location: Lake Hopatcong N.J
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Re: Coolant Flush...
I think this might be a job you pay someone to do.
I could be wrong. but I think after a certain time and age that if you change the coolent you could do more damage then good(new stuff might disturbe some of the rust) you also have hi miles too.
It didnt cost that much, I'd just pay someone cuz if it gets messed up then you have someone to fall back on, coolent systems are so tempermental.
~Chris
I could be wrong. but I think after a certain time and age that if you change the coolent you could do more damage then good(new stuff might disturbe some of the rust) you also have hi miles too.
It didnt cost that much, I'd just pay someone cuz if it gets messed up then you have someone to fall back on, coolent systems are so tempermental.
~Chris
08-10-2004, 11:47 AM
#9
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Location: Clovis, NM
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Re: Coolant Flush...
Thats why you drain every bit of coolant and flush lots water through the radiator because that's where the rust tends to settle.
Then put the hose up to the inlet of the water pump and run the engine and let the water pump fulsh all the crap out the water neck.
If you have a water hose, bucket, screw driver to remove the hose and a plase to take you used coolant you should not have to pay some one to do it. I don't think any one could screw up a coolant flush. Unless you lived in Maine and replced the coolant with plain water during winter.
Trust me that if you take it some where to have it done they will half *** it.
You need to put raidator flush in there and run it and then let water run through it for like a half hour while running like I do.
I don't like any one working on my stuff, my step dad just paid 1500 to have the ATV worked on and they half assed it so bad I will make sure he never takes it back to the dealer ship. If I did it would have cost less than half that and the quality would have been 4 times as good.
I flushed a detroit diesel a few months ago it must have had a pound of rust in the bottem of the raidaitor, water ran brown/red for all most 5 minutes. and there was dirt like rust particals all over the floor when I was done.
Then put the hose up to the inlet of the water pump and run the engine and let the water pump fulsh all the crap out the water neck.
If you have a water hose, bucket, screw driver to remove the hose and a plase to take you used coolant you should not have to pay some one to do it. I don't think any one could screw up a coolant flush. Unless you lived in Maine and replced the coolant with plain water during winter.
Trust me that if you take it some where to have it done they will half *** it.
You need to put raidator flush in there and run it and then let water run through it for like a half hour while running like I do.
I don't like any one working on my stuff, my step dad just paid 1500 to have the ATV worked on and they half assed it so bad I will make sure he never takes it back to the dealer ship. If I did it would have cost less than half that and the quality would have been 4 times as good.
I flushed a detroit diesel a few months ago it must have had a pound of rust in the bottem of the raidaitor, water ran brown/red for all most 5 minutes. and there was dirt like rust particals all over the floor when I was done.
08-10-2004, 01:28 PM
#10
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Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
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Re: Coolant Flush...
1) Dex-Cool = crap
2) Flushing and adding new coolant is always a good idea. It is never too late...you would only harm your car by not changing the coolant.
3) Re-read Seth's post
4) Zerex G-05 is the future.
That is all.
2) Flushing and adding new coolant is always a good idea. It is never too late...you would only harm your car by not changing the coolant.
3) Re-read Seth's post
4) Zerex G-05 is the future.
That is all.
08-11-2004, 01:23 AM
#11
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Re: Coolant Flush...
Originally Posted by ImportKILLER
1) Dex-Cool = crap
2) Flushing and adding new coolant is always a good idea. It is never too late...you would only harm your car by not changing the coolant.
3) Re-read Seth's post
4) Zerex G-05 is the future.
That is all.
2) Flushing and adding new coolant is always a good idea. It is never too late...you would only harm your car by not changing the coolant.
3) Re-read Seth's post
4) Zerex G-05 is the future.
That is all.
Hey which radiator hose do I follow to the thermostat? I guess the upper one on the driverside to the block? is the thermostat in that housing that kinda sticks out to the right of that hose? Where's the water pump inlet on our cars? and it's okay to have the engine running while I'm squirting water into it? do I need to unplug anything else? and if I'm squirting water through the inlet if the pump, where's it going to come out at?
Oh yes when I refill it with antifreeze, I'm definately using green antifreeze. Our blazer had Dexcool in it and the whole system got all clogged up and now our heater coil went out
. So I can't use regular water when I refill the antifreeze? I really didn't know that. Where can I get distilled water from and whats the difference?Sorry I'm all confused and stuff but I gatta know what I'm doing before I do it.
08-11-2004, 01:16 PM
#12
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Location: Statesville NC
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Re: Coolant Flush...
Dex-cool is not crap. it;s designed to work with modern motors and alum radiators. If you take care if it then it will take care of you. You just have to understand how the system works and what it reacts to. if you do it right you will never ever have an issue with dex cool.. yes they had a problem with it in the early SUV's that it was in but thats done with.
the best way to drain and flush the system is to drain the radiator and the block (there is usualy a drain plug in the block or you can usualy remove teh knock sensor and let it drain from there) then fill it with water and a solvent and run it. then would be a good time to flush it witha hose or adapter.
if your car came with dexcool then run that with it when you fill back up. since your going to have the system open anyway it would be a good idea to change the hoses, thermo and rad cap. it;s preventitive maintenance. fill with a 50/50 mix of dexcool and DISTILLED water and you will be ok
the best way to drain and flush the system is to drain the radiator and the block (there is usualy a drain plug in the block or you can usualy remove teh knock sensor and let it drain from there) then fill it with water and a solvent and run it. then would be a good time to flush it witha hose or adapter.
if your car came with dexcool then run that with it when you fill back up. since your going to have the system open anyway it would be a good idea to change the hoses, thermo and rad cap. it;s preventitive maintenance. fill with a 50/50 mix of dexcool and DISTILLED water and you will be ok
08-11-2004, 01:36 PM
#13
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Location: Clovis, NM
Posts: 878
Re: Coolant Flush...
The hose from the bottem of the raidator going into the pump will push crap out the block when you run a water hose to it.
The Hose near top center of the moter also the easyiest one to see and get to goes from the block to raidator. That is where the water will come out of the engine at.
Use the green stuff. Dex-a-crap will ruin something it is one of the few new car products that is not an improvement. Use it if you have a Aluminium block,head and raidator engine.
I see you live in georgia you will want all most straight antifreze (100% or around 90%)in you car because of the heat, If you were in Tx of Fl I would say use pure antifreeze. I did it when I was in Texas.
The Ethylene Glycol in anitfreeze carries more heat that water, the hoter tht place you live the purer you should mix you stuff.
Pure antifreeze has the highest boiling point. But it can gel at -10'F, I don't know why.
66% antifreeze and 33% water has the lowest freezing point that's what i use in Maine, but the boiling point isn't as high.
The bottle will recomend 70%-30% mix mainly because it is slightly flamable when pure (and it can gel), 70%-30% is slightly less flamable then pure green stuff.
Don't use red stuff.
What is Zerex G-05?
I have never herd of it. Is is the purple $#!t?
The Hose near top center of the moter also the easyiest one to see and get to goes from the block to raidator. That is where the water will come out of the engine at.
Use the green stuff. Dex-a-crap will ruin something it is one of the few new car products that is not an improvement. Use it if you have a Aluminium block,head and raidator engine.
I see you live in georgia you will want all most straight antifreze (100% or around 90%)in you car because of the heat, If you were in Tx of Fl I would say use pure antifreeze. I did it when I was in Texas.
The Ethylene Glycol in anitfreeze carries more heat that water, the hoter tht place you live the purer you should mix you stuff.
Pure antifreeze has the highest boiling point. But it can gel at -10'F, I don't know why.
66% antifreeze and 33% water has the lowest freezing point that's what i use in Maine, but the boiling point isn't as high.
The bottle will recomend 70%-30% mix mainly because it is slightly flamable when pure (and it can gel), 70%-30% is slightly less flamable then pure green stuff.
Don't use red stuff.
What is Zerex G-05?
I have never herd of it. Is is the purple $#!t?
08-11-2004, 01:45 PM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 1,459
Re: Coolant Flush...
Originally Posted by HBHRacing
Dex-cool is not crap. it;s designed to work with modern motors and alum radiators. If you take care if it then it will take care of you. You just have to understand how the system works and what it reacts to. if you do it right you will never ever have an issue with dex cool.. yes they had a problem with it in the early SUV's that it was in but thats done with.
the best way to drain and flush the system is to drain the radiator and the block (there is usualy a drain plug in the block or you can usualy remove teh knock sensor and let it drain from there) then fill it with water and a solvent and run it. then would be a good time to flush it witha hose or adapter.
if your car came with dexcool then run that with it when you fill back up. since your going to have the system open anyway it would be a good idea to change the hoses, thermo and rad cap. it;s preventitive maintenance. fill with a 50/50 mix of dexcool and DISTILLED water and you will be ok
the best way to drain and flush the system is to drain the radiator and the block (there is usualy a drain plug in the block or you can usualy remove teh knock sensor and let it drain from there) then fill it with water and a solvent and run it. then would be a good time to flush it witha hose or adapter.
if your car came with dexcool then run that with it when you fill back up. since your going to have the system open anyway it would be a good idea to change the hoses, thermo and rad cap. it;s preventitive maintenance. fill with a 50/50 mix of dexcool and DISTILLED water and you will be ok
- I'm going to run the cleaner through the engine for about 10 mins
- Then when it's cool, I get under the car and look for the valve for the radiator to drain it.
- I run water through the water pump to drain the block (Where's the water pump and where's it going to come out at though? do I need to disconnect anything else?)
- I run and drain water through the radiator and resivior...
- I reconnect everything after doing the above processes a couple of times then I refill with 50/50 ...Where on earth do I find Distilled Water?
- If all else fails I take it to the shop because I don't know wtf I'm doing
08-11-2004, 01:51 PM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: I'm in the Bay, Trick
Posts: 1,151
Re: Coolant Flush...
Class Action Suit against Dex-Cool
There are a lot of stories of people having bad experiences with Dex-Cool. With the problems our cars have with leaking intake and head gaskets, the air corrupts Dex-Cool. I know I've had my issues with Dex-Cool.
OAT + air = bad
This last refill, I used a Dex-Cool approved coolant that wasn't actually Dex-Cool and it has worked fine. Next flush, I'm moving to G-05.
Nothing is bulletproof and every coolant will go bad if the conditions are right but there have been too many concerns over Dex-Cool, as well as my own experience, to trust Dex-Cool.
There are a lot of stories of people having bad experiences with Dex-Cool. With the problems our cars have with leaking intake and head gaskets, the air corrupts Dex-Cool. I know I've had my issues with Dex-Cool.
OAT + air = bad
This last refill, I used a Dex-Cool approved coolant that wasn't actually Dex-Cool and it has worked fine. Next flush, I'm moving to G-05.
Nothing is bulletproof and every coolant will go bad if the conditions are right but there have been too many concerns over Dex-Cool, as well as my own experience, to trust Dex-Cool.