What do you mean "jump" around? You mean becuase of rough ride?

 

For sure, the first suspension mod on a 4th gen should be subframe connectors.

 

That's not correct at all. Research LS1tech.com and see why.

 

did some research.... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ame+connectors

 

Are LCA relocation brackets a must?

 

If you are experiencing harsh wheelhop or your car is lowered from stock ride height then reloc. brackets would be a worthy upgrade.

 

Over rough/bumpy asphalt, yes.

 

More fuel for your fire. IIRC the 3 point STBs on the 4th gen actually connect to the cowling not the firewall. There have also been cases of windshields getting craked from them.

 

I am a nay sayer, I say that subframe connecters should be the first upgrade and the reasons why is because of pure and simple physics. If you have a t-top or convert it is worthwhile to get them. But the reason why subframes connecters are necessary is when you start putting in stiffer componets that dont move it transfers the stress else where to the vehicle aka the body. Yes it may not be a seat of the pants upgrade but guess what you will sure thank yourslef later years down the line when your doors dont sag or your tips still fit the way they used to. Think about this way the stiffer your suspension gets the less it will move, but that doesnt change the fact that the same forces are effecting you when you go around the corner. Since everything in your car is connected to the body and its frame the stiffer suspension will actually cause the body to absorb more stress. Subframe connecters and cages will resist these twisting forces. In the end Subframe connecters are a small performance upgrade but their main function is to help absorb and distribute the stresses on the body. Essentially they will help with longevity of your vehicle. If anyone wants to disagree I will be more than happy to get different insight on suspension.

 

I guess if I do a 1'' drop I probaby don't need LCA relocators, or an adjustable panhard rod. My car has 182k miles on it, and I'm pretty sure it already sits at least 1'' lower than stock.

 

Read the link above for the insight you seek. I got sfc's anyway just because I beleive the same thing kinda what you said but I wouldnt reccomend them to anyone as a first mod.

 

For stephenspann27, if we're talking stictly from a racing standpoint, the width of the tires are more important than the diameter of the wheel you're using (to a point, obviously 245/80/16s would be bad. ). FWIW, i'll be using the stock 16x8s with some 245/45/16 Kumho Victoracer tires for SOLO II this season. There is some advantage to the lower profile tires that using a 17" or 18" wheel would provide, mainly in that it'll react faster to your inputs, but it will be less forgiving. IMO, with a race tire, you won't notice a dramatic difference going to a lower profile and you'll just be adding weight with the larger wheel (or at the very least, more rotational mass). With good tires, tire roll shouldn't be much of an issue. With crap all season tires, yeah, tire roll can be felt dramatically under hard loads. Having said all that, no matter what wheel you go with, it's something you probably won't notice or be able to appreciate until you start to reach the limits of what your car can do.

The money you could spend on wheels, would probably be better spent on other things first. Also, i'm not really sure you're going to find performance shocks for under $200... unless you meant $200 a piece.

 

Shocks, shocks, shocks, shocks, shocks. Shocks deal with impacts, bumps, etc, before the body structure does. Shocks are what's responsible for the crashing ride, the jittery tail on bumps and the floating motions too. Not a lack of chassis stiffness.

I sell SFC's (a number of brands). I also sell shocks, and I'm telling you the shocks are much, much, much more important. Not to mention there are plenty of high mileage cars out there (and I mean over 200k miles, one in particular over 350k miles) without SFC's and are not falling apart.

 

Thanks for the info, my other username is "stephenspann27." I am considering keeping the stock springs and going with Koni adjustable shocks. However, my car has 182k miles on it. I beleive the springs have got to be pretty worn, and the car is a '95 model. Does any one have any idea about how long springs can go before they loose considerable performance?

 

If the car isn't sitting lower than the springs are fine. That's a bunch of miles and with stock shocks allowing extra oscillations, even if they aren't "bad" now, they probably aren't far from it. Might not be a bad idea to put some new ones (or less used ones) in there. Should be easy to find since so many do lowering springs (I might even have a set laying around the shop) If you need new ones, we can help there as well.