mongse_1

My fault...I should have asked what the intentions were right off the bat...straight-line only, autoX/RR or all-around street car. My mistake, I'll admit that. When someone asks about a torque arm, I assume that they're wanting straight-line performance, thus the basis of my answers. Making cars go in a straight line is what I do best. How's that old saying go...assume will make an *** out of U and ME.

So let me repost what I did, only broken down a tad more....

-removing front sway bar: Cheap and effective for straight-line performance. Absolutely insanity on anything required a lot of lateral movement. It's in the same boat as skinnies. If you try to take a 30mph cloverleaf @ 60mph, you WILL have problems. The car will plow hard, provided your wheels don't fold.
-strut tower brace: Useless in straight-line performance. Very effective on twisties though.
-KBDD's: I stand by my opinion on the KB's. They will do no better than a regular BMR or Spohn SFC. The original KB design was done for Fox-body Mustangs which do not have the same structural inefficiencies as our cars. Are they strong? Damn right they are. Are they necessary? No.
-Passenger-side airbag: The purpose of the passenger side airbag is to prevent that side from squating more (due to the engine torquing that direction). Case in point...
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/MWSR/ta2slow3.jpg
No bag on a stock cube, 150-shot LS1.

My car has seen all kinds of street time with the old motor and will see just as much with the new setup. That's what it was built for originally...street racing. If you can hook on a public street, you'll hook ANYWHERE.