Is it worth it for me to buy an adjustable TQ arm, or just stick with what I've got and get some DR's?

Also, would the TQ arm help even if you are running street tires?

Thanks

 

I don't have one, but I do plan on getting one. I have heard they are very helpful.

 

In my view, the adjustable torue arm only helps if you have enough HP to deform (or actually damage) the stock TA/bushing, under load, to the point where your pinion angle goes positive. That isn't likely to happen with a mild bolt-on motor. Seems some people have managed to get cars into the 10's with the stock TA, while others rip the stocker apart with close to stock HP.

The first step might be to opt for an upgraded tranny mount and a stiffer TA bushing, to control the front of the TA better. Then when you raise the HP with, say, heads and cam, look at an adjustable TA with the chassis mount front support.

Just a thought.

 

i know the poly ta mount made a HUGE improvement in the firmness of shifts on my cars...and hard to beat for $15

 

I bought mine because it was on sale and I was doing other suspension work at the time anyway so I just bought everything together. It made some noticable difference, but on a bolt-on car, its hardly worth the money. I would go with the tires first.

 

well it was a night/day diff in my car. big increase in traction, and you could feel the power transfer to the ground better, shifting was seemingly quicker.

I haven't used it with DRs, but with street tires it made a big diff in mine.

 

I upgraded my stock TA with a mild bolt on car (still is for that matter.....)... I added the BMR ADJ chromolyTA.

My stocker was ovaled out at the rear. It defenetly improved the torque and HP transfer. Better response. I can also break the tires loose easier, which can be a downfall. I didn't drive on the stocker for long and it's been a couple years. The only way I can describe it is.... the throttle isn't as spongy.

What tranny do you have? I don't see as much of a problem with 'shocking' the rear douring hard shifts with a auto. But in an M6, it could. Better transfer of energy on a m6 could lead to sooner demise of the rear. I'm still on my stock rear.... 4 years driving it, w/ 34k on the clock now. With a manual, it all depends on how you drive.....-Just a thought.

Like Injuneer said. People have ripped thru a couple of stockers. But they probably had slicks. I remember one guy said he was breaking his at the track going to do a burn out, he got bad wheel hop... when he locked the front end then the TA broke. That was a manual trans too, btw.

 

i had the poly mount. i also had a poly tranny mount. when i bought my used adjustable for about 200 bucks it was an amazing difference. i know my car was in a wreck when i bought it from the dealer (didnt know when i bought it...found out about a year later), and i did have some other stuff done at the same time (3.23 gear install) but that shouldnt have helped traction any.

again..i could have been fixing a problem from the wreck but man...i wish it were the second thing i did next to subframes.

 

I think adjustability is key in dialing in the suspension...I received a "suspension 101" course from a local chassis/suspension guy who was able to dial everything in because of the adjustable TA, LCAs, and PHB...pinion angle is key to getting the car to hook...Its also a good idea to get the TA off of the trans...I'll be able to post my "after" results this Friday at a track rental...With my pinion angle at 1 deg positive, rear 1/4" out of square and no relocation brackets I spun to a 1.59 60'...Now with 1.5 deg neg pinion angle, a squared rear, and relocation brackets set in the 2nd hole we'll see what I can do...

I think its definitely worth getting an adjustable cross brace mouned TA...

--Alan

 

How did you do?

 

Sorry...I ran consistent 1.55s....not a huge improvement, but very consistent and with off idle launches...Its way easier to drive now and it goes nice and straight...

--Alan

 

Every little bit adds up, especially in the 60ft. I think any improvement at all would be enough for me.

 

It all came together for a new best of 11.36 @ 119.75 n/a on 275 M/T radials...I just ordered some 4.10s..We'll see what we can get out of it then..Going from 6000 rpm to 6300 at the finish...

--Alan

 

Just a quick ??
Would the Chassis mount TA work with a dual exhaust X-pipe set-up??