I'm going to start building my suspension......... My car is already lowered with the Eibach pro kit...... I need to know, should I get boxed or tubular products...... Adjustable or non-adjustable....... Its going to be a street/strip CAMARO...... And will I need the relocation brackets for the rear control arms.......... Right now everything is all stock........ I need some help............. ............

 

Get some Bilstein shocks revalved to match your Prokit. Tubular or boxed - I assume you are talking about LCAs? I went tubular because its cheaper and strong enough for me. You will need an adjustable panhard rod to center your rear. You definately need relocation brackets since your car is lowered. Anything else?

 

Is there another option, besides bilsteins........

 

The next step up would be Konis either SA or DAs. The advantage of the Konis is they are adjustable. However according to Sam Strano you will not be able to adjust the Konis "on the fly" with a prokit. You would have to take the whole assembly apart. Sam revalved my Bilsteins to perform just like the Konis, and for only $500 its a lot cheaper then a Koni setup. For your car I am sure the revalved Bilsteins will be fine, unless you plan on doing some serious autocrossing or road racing.

 

What about a torque arm...... Would the non-adjustable be alright..... This is mostly for the street......

 

Anyone with some suggesdtionS.................

 

For the street a non adjustable would be fine, but why not just get an adjustable one, they are cheap enough and you will most likely hook better. Also another thing to consider when buying a torque arm is whether or not you want one that mounts to the transmission or not, both types have their advantages and disadvantages.

 

Can you tell me more about the torque arms.

 

Adjustable will let you set your pinion angle to help reduce wheel hop and improve traction. Spohn makes a nice unit because it has an angle finder. Also when it comes to the mounting you have two options, one that mounts to the transmission tailshaft (factory style) or one that mounts to a crossmember. Most agree that it is best to move the mounting location to a crossmember if you want to notice a significant improvement over the factory torque arm. The drawback to this however is the increased road noise you will hear. For what its worth, I will be going with the crossmember mounted Spohn in the future. My car is not a daily driver and I can live with the road noise.

 

Get some subframe connectors as well...preferable weld-on. The "non diamond" ones come in tubular and boxed. Boxed hangs down lower (at least for BMR products), so you may have ground clearance issues since you've lowered your car.

If for street, larger diameter front and rear sway bars with the polyurethane bushings would help your cornering.

 

Good info there as well, the only thing I will add is that a larger rear sway bar is not really needed. Its up to driver preference though on how you want your car to handle. Subframe connectors are a definate must have IMO. I have the SLP diamond style I think they are the best but some some people will say they are overkill. Again in the end it comes down to your personal preference.

 

ThanX alot guys... Anything else....

 

Kenny Brown DD SFC's here... love it.

Being lowered, you should invest in an Adjustable PHR and LCA brackets.

Talk to Sam Strato about his Bilstein package... your springs are gonna change a few things tuning wise.

4 or 6-point roll bar will help... bracing the rear arms of the cage to make a 8-point will be even better.

Best handling improvements:
1) new tires
2) driving school.

 

anything else....