Im planning on buying these in a few months and i was wondering what kind i should get who sells good ones and whats the best prices most of you have experienced. I dont know much about subframe connectors but i was told i should get them.

 

I got a good deal on my Spohn tubular SFCs, got them on sale from one of the supporing vendors for under 150 bucks. Many companies market them: Spohn, BMR, SLP,ect. A search can yield alot of feedback about the different brands as well.

 

were they weld or bolt on? and how did you like them?

 

Hey i just bought a 94 z28 with 64000 miles an a A4, i was thinking really hard about Sub Frame Connectors as a first mod, condisering the car is comptely stock, everything, nothing has been touched. Any that are good? I want the best. Nothing cheap. I was condsidering these 3 point SFC's from UMI Performance, anyone have these or heard anything about them, all input is thanked. http://www.umiperformance.com/2003.aspx

Thanks.

-1994 Z28 Black A4

 

they say Double Diamonds are the cream of the crop

 

Hi. If I might add something, SFCs make your car into a better car. You essentially create a whole frame from two sub-frames. Every suspension component benefits from a stronger backbone. The SFCs your link points to is made and marketed by J&M Products. I bought two sets of their tubular weld in connectors.

I was ready to buy the double diamond but was talked into the simpler weld on tubular units by the seller, who also happens to install them. They were about $87 at the time and the 3 point double diamond style that he was selling was a little less than double that price.

I was all set to buy the 3 points (from him) but he convinced me that round is inherently more rigid than square tubing and for that reason the 3 points are necessary to prevent twisting. Otherwise the square tubes would only effectively resist front to back flexing. The two point tubulars, if stitch welded along the rocker panels, will inhibit both front to back and lateral twisting like the 3 point but with more inherent strength because of the tubular design.

I was a little taken back by him advising me to buy their less expensive style but that is what I ended up doing. The tubular style tuck completely out of the way, up into the recess beside the rocker panel. The remainder of the connects are barely visible as they only add a fraction of an inch to the bottom of the front sub-frame terminal and then weld along side of the rear control arm mount for the axle.

I have to fabricate some gussets because the sfc tube does not match the contour along the rocker panel very well. It is important that there is enough contact for the stitch welding along the panel as this is where the twisting force of your car will be focused once the two points of the sub-frames are in place. If you have this done for you, it will likely add to the cost for time and materials. To me, it is worth the added installation expense. Guessing, I would say the money saved with lower cost tubular design is equaled out by more welding and fabricating. The one thing you will certainly gain by going with the tubular units is less weight by probably one third or more.

I obviously don't know what the double diamond square tube units are like but I can tell you about the appearance of the simpler tubular ones which I bought. They are very nicely powder coated and the welds are top notch. My only wish is that they would fit a little better along the rocker.

 

if the three points resist twist and front/back flex most, then thats what i want! i want to keep my top leak-free for another 70k miles!

 

anything is better than not having them...

but if you are going to go to the drag strip and are looking for some great numbers then you will need a torque arm with the attatchment cant remember the name right now but it doesnt work with double diamond sfc's

 

Thanks alot 95 Z28 RIDE, as stated early all info is thanked..Do you think those would be a good buy? They look like there really good. I havent done that much research, but it sure seems like this UMI Performance has some good stuff, an its all compatable with each other which i like. Thanks.

1994 Z28 Black A4

 

There's an alternate mount made by BMR Fabrications that moves the point were the torque mounts back a little and off the rear of the trans and it will not work with the double diamonds or the SLP's. The alternate mount allows more pinion angle adjustments mostly for drag racing use.

I have the SLP's and love them took out some the squeaks in the t-tops and in my 94 model 150k mile Z28 it made a real improvement in the feel of the car and kind of togetherness I guess you could say, oh yeah I got weld-in's. Cost me like a 100 bucks to have them welded in and fit great.

 

I can't remember where I heard it but lots of people are putting down good times at the track with the stock torque arm if thats a concern about 3point subframes. Unless you're runing 11's i hear a torque arm mount upgrade really makes it better, most the flex is in the stock mount. upgrade to poly.

 

Will a three point to a two point make that much of a difference? Is it worth the money? If not i can surely find something else to upgrade on my car

 

Going back to the beginning. SFCs are considered by some essential. Others find no use for them. If you want to enhance your car's chassis, sfc arguably form the backbone to suspension enhancements. If straight line performance is your first priority then fix the intake and get a good catalyst back exhaust.

Three point (double diamond) sfcs look awesome but they occupy real estate under the car. The tubular connectors that weld against the rocker panel aren't really two point other than in name. They become a holistic support member that ties body and chassis together. Round tubes are stronger than square; that's physics. How well the connectors do their job varies by manufacturer, fit and style. One thing for sure, if you have them installed, be certain they go on with all the weight on the wheels or at least with the suspension fully loaded. Disconnect the battery before welding and by all means protect the fuel and lines from exposure to sparks and heat.

If you're not sure what you want yet, take your time and search the threads; there are many of them.

 

where does the rear part of the sfc bolt in

 

would these clear true dual exhausts?