I was thinking about sending you a PM to come into this thread but I had a feeling that you'd find it by chance. I guess I was right!

Ya, I still haven't seen your Z either, just the pictures. Awesome, another Z28 at IUSB. I've only seen around 3-4 LT1 Z's including me and 1 LS1 Z. There are about 4-5 Trans Am's, some LT1 and some LS1. I just started talking to a kid who has a 97 Z so I need to try and meet up with him sometime. We need to get a bunch of the F-body's around here together on like a Friday or Saturday night this summer.

Back to topic, Ya that is what subframe connectors are suppose to do. It doesn't look like they would, but it really does work so its all good by me. I agree, strucual rigidity is a great thing. Actually those are my plans for my Z first off. I'm going to get mostly chassis and suspension parts for it this summer. Next summer is when the horsepower will start coming! Alright, I need to goto work. SOrry for any misspellings, ITS EARLY and the screen is a little blurry.

 

Im not sure if this was mentioned but Im also pretty sure you want to make sure the guy installing the sub frame connectors knows what he's doing. I believe the car has to be lifted in the air while maintaining the cars weight on all 4 wheels. So you cant use a frame lift. Correct me if im wrong.

 

When your body twists in tight corners you can create so much flex you get those tiny dime sized door dings on your quarrter panels. I got two of them after doing some autocrossing. After that I got subframes now I wip and slide the car everywhere and no more door dings. Plus the car feels much more stable. Bump steer is also really bad on our cars especially with wide front tires, subframes help eliminate that.

 

W000T!
That is annoying as hell with all of the rough roads around here...

 

Really?!? I guess that'd make sense of those 2 "door Dings" in my left rear quarter. I always wondered how a door hit there. Hmmm, that makes me want to take my entire paycheck and buy the SFC now!

 

help but not eliminate.
if anything else helps with that I want to know, cause I hate that one roads that have ruts in them.

 

Well the SLP's at TBYRNE are 189.99 and the BMR's at Tunderracing.com are 159.99. I thought the SLP's would be more than that. I might have to go with the SLP's then, because I think those would make for a more ridgid frame.

 

the BMR goes front to back, weld in teh front and the back.

the SLP do that, but weld to the pinchrail too, and htey also tie into the tunnle brace.

 

would it be to our best interest to replace the tunnel brace also if you get the slp's because they tie into that also? something to think about.


also if you go to lgmotorsports.com they have a picture of a guy with really bad flex in his ride on the suspensioon page and explain how sfc;s help that

 

I looked but couldn't find it... linky?

 

I couldn't find that on the page either. About connecting the tunnel brace, I think it would be better if you did because I would believe that you could still slightly twist the floor pan area without having some of the area reinforced. Thats my opinion, I have no proof to back it up.

 

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/OCLT1_F...is_Bracing.htm

it was the chassis page not suspension ... sorry look at the top of that link and it has a pic of a guy in an anniversary camaro with his front drivers side tire off the ground and the rest of the car on the ground. it pretty cool

 

Holy CRAP!! that car HAS to be hurting! I've never seen a car flex like that! Can't wait till I get my subframe connectors.