Any just upgraded to poly endlinks and bushings while using their stock sway bars. Does it offer any improvement or do I really need to chage everything. Don't want to spend the money on sway bars if I can fix my body roll with some bushings and end links. Anyone that has done this let me know how it worked.

 

Poly bushings for the end links will help a bit, especially if the stock bushings were worn. Not going to give you the improvement that larger sway bars do. I'm running Strano's 35mm hollow bar up front with the 1LE 21mm solid rear bar. Strano sells a hollow 22mm rear bar.

If you decide to upgrade to Stano's bars, they come with poly bushings and new end links.

 

I wouldn't expect much difference from replacing bushings only. Another vote for Strano's bars.

 

Bushings don't make the bars any stiffer, they only make the bars react a touch more quickly *IF* the stock bushings are shot. If not, because the stock endlink bushings are a very hard material you're just tossing some money away.

 

Used 1LE swaybars are pretty cheap if you can't spend a lot of money. That way you're not wasting money on poly bushings for a stock swaybar.

 

Any SS, WS6 or Firehawk has the "1LE" front bar already, and while it's better than a stock 30, it still ain't enough front bar. And a "1LE" rear bar is a 21mm, and really 90% or more of the 1LE's had a 19mm bar (all '94-99's from GM), only '93 GM built 1LE's were a 21 rear. And frankly a 21 rear with a 32 front is only workable if you have what the '93 1LE's did... a stiffer front spring with a stock rear. If you put a 32/21 combo on a stock sprung car, it's too stiff in the back. And I feel a 32/21 is too rear stiff relative to the front anyway.

 

Sam what do you suggest for bars on a stock sprung car because I don't want to change my ride height?

 

Height doesn't matter so much, it's the spring rates.... I use the same size bars in either case. Big front, moderate rear. That's 35/22 hollow from me

 

how strong are your hollow vs. solid bars?

 

Basically just about the same, but much lighter. Bars work by twisting, and the very middle of a bar/tube moves very little, the further you get from the middle the more movement which is why bar stiffness is a function of the outside diameter to the 4th power. Basically on the front you are dealing with a hollow 35, but we use a think 1/4" wall tubing for extra strength, on the rear we use a thinner tubing and the 22mm rear bar is equivilent to a 21 solid.

BTW, all front bars on 4th gens...... Hollow.